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View Fuzzybearz's profile

Powermatic 15HH Snipe on both ends

by Fuzzybearz
posted 11-12-2018 03:35 AM


20 replies so far

View Manitario's profile

Manitario

2754 posts in 3268 days


#1 posted 11-12-2018 07:54 AM

Get a long, accurate straight edge and re-check your outfeed tables. You won’t see a difference where they connect up to the planer, however, you probably will see that the end of the table is no longer co-planer with the body of the planer. I have the 20” Powermatic version of your planer; whenever I start getting snipe it has always been the outfeed tables.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View Rich's profile

Rich

4473 posts in 975 days


#2 posted 11-12-2018 02:45 PM

Did the board have any bow in it? If it has even a slight concave bow (ends up in the air), the ends will sit high until they engage the rollers and you’ll get an exaggerated snipe.

It’s a long shot, but one I’ve run into with thinner boards that I can’t joint flat and plan to bend into shape. If you flip the board over it’ll be fine.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

View Fuzzybearz's profile

Fuzzybearz

104 posts in 454 days


#3 posted 11-12-2018 03:49 PM

Ive planed alot of different boards thinking it was the wood but they had the same results.

I did some more research and think like maniatario stated, its the outfeed. I didnt know there were set screws for adjustments. So i grab the in and outfeed tables to move the planer, should I be using something else?

Also does extruded aluminum work well for a straight edge? Or should I buy an actual one

View Rich's profile

Rich

4473 posts in 975 days


#4 posted 11-12-2018 03:55 PM


Ive planed alot of different boards thinking it was the wood but they had the same results.

- Fuzzybearz

OK then. That’s different. You only mentioned one board in your post.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

View Manitario's profile

Manitario

2754 posts in 3268 days


#5 posted 11-12-2018 04:10 PM



Ive planed alot of different boards thinking it was the wood but they had the same results.

I did some more research and think like maniatario stated, its the outfeed. I didnt know there were set screws for adjustments. So i grab the in and outfeed tables to move the planer, should I be using something else?

Also does extruded aluminum work well for a straight edge? Or should I buy an actual one

- Fuzzybearz

The infeed and outfeed tables just tend to go out of alignment over time, I find I have to adjust mine a couple times a year. Moving by grabbing them probably doesn’t help! I’d buy a proper straight edge eg. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=50074&cat=1,240,45313,50074
This will make it more accurate and you can also use it when you adjust your jointer.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2260 posts in 2183 days


#6 posted 11-12-2018 04:41 PM

My pm 15 sniped really bad when I first bought it. The adjustment that helped the most was the bed rollers. But do make sure your Infeed and outfeed are set correctly. Then adjust the chip breaker.
I still get a small snipe on the end of single boards so if I want zero I use a backer salvage board at the beginning and end.
It’s really a lite weight planer so don’t expect too much precision.
Keep the adjustment springs oiled they get sticky the machine needs all the help it can get.
Good luck are you going to make endgrain cutting boards?

-- Aj

View Fuzzybearz's profile

Fuzzybearz

104 posts in 454 days


#7 posted 11-20-2018 02:35 AM

Alright after playing around with the outfeed/infeed im getting the same results which rules out the tables. The short board which shouldve also resulted in less or no sniping also confirms this.

My theory is it has something to do with the rollers. 2.5”, short or long board (pictured) has snipe. Ive drawn a red line.

Suggestions?

View Fuzzybearz's profile

Fuzzybearz

104 posts in 454 days


#8 posted 11-20-2018 02:37 AM

Liteweigjt? This seems industrial to me?

Good point on adding boards at rhe front and end. Would still like to solve this problem as it was working perfectly.

Plan is to make end grain!


My pm 15 sniped really bad when I first bought it. The adjustment that helped the most was the bed rollers. But do make sure your Infeed and outfeed are set correctly. Then adjust the chip breaker.
I still get a small snipe on the end of single boards so if I want zero I use a backer salvage board at the beginning and end.
It’s really a lite weight planer so don’t expect too much precision.
Keep the adjustment springs oiled they get sticky the machine needs all the help it can get.
Good luck are you going to make endgrain cutting boards?

- Aj2


View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5933 posts in 3198 days


#9 posted 11-20-2018 03:32 AM

It may well be the rollers. But before you give up on the in feed and out feed tables, keep in mind the tables need to be set higher at the far end. They should look like a shallow “V” when viewed from the side.

In other words setting your tables flat with the planner bed doesn’t cut it with most planners.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2260 posts in 2183 days


#10 posted 11-20-2018 04:26 AM

Powermatic used to make some very nice heavy planers. Our machines were made in Taiwan try clamping a dial indicator somewhere on the frame.Set the tip so it touches the bottom of the bed and see how much it flexes.
Mine flexes about 10 / 12 thou. To me that’s flimsy
Where’s your dust collection

-- Aj

View Robert's profile

Robert

3394 posts in 1866 days


#11 posted 11-20-2018 02:50 PM

Most snipe occurs on the exit from machine. One quit trick is to keep a little upward pressure on the board as it exits.

Snipe results from the board lifting off the bed as it enters/exits the cutter head. Bowed boards, insufficient roller pressure, and bed rollers can be the cause. Be sure your jointer is set up right and the board is flat. Some planers inherently snipe but on most it can be adjusted out.

I adjusted my bed rollers down flat with the bed and this eliminated all snipe from my machine.

You can also address snipe issues by using a sled that extends from infeed to outfeed through the planer. Put a cleat on the infeed end to keep sled from getting pulled.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Fuzzybearz's profile

Fuzzybearz

104 posts in 454 days


#12 posted 11-23-2018 07:15 AM



Powermatic used to make some very nice heavy planers. Our machines were made in Taiwan try clamping a dial indicator somewhere on the frame.Set the tip so it touches the bottom of the bed and see how much it flexes.
Mine flexes about 10 / 12 thou. To me that’s flimsy
Where’s your dust collection

- Aj2

: ) worked on the dust collection tonight. I thought it wouldnt be hard to take someone elses metal ducting and apply it to mine. Turns out I shiuldve just shelled out for brand new, they stepped down from 8 to 7 to 6 to 5 to 4 and the length of the ducts arent the same in my garage : /

Ill try adjusting the rollers. The wood I feed through is flat and confirmed. Thanks everyone. Hopefully I fix it this weekend

View Fuzzybearz's profile

Fuzzybearz

104 posts in 454 days


#13 posted 11-23-2018 07:21 AM

For clarifixation, the rollers are the bottom rollers and the top ones are something else right?

I believe my bottom.rollers are flush with the bottom, I was thinking thr clampijg pressure from up top was too much?


Most snipe occurs on the exit from machine. One quit trick is to keep a little upward pressure on the board as it exits.

Snipe results from the board lifting off the bed as it enters/exits the cutter head. Bowed boards, insufficient roller pressure, and bed rollers can be the cause. Be sure your jointer is set up right and the board is flat. Some planers inherently snipe but on most it can be adjusted out.

I adjusted my bed rollers down flat with the bed and this eliminated all snipe from my machine.

You can also address snipe issues by using a sled that extends from infeed to outfeed through the planer. Put a cleat on the infeed end to keep sled from getting pulled.

- rwe2156


View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

5271 posts in 2694 days


#14 posted 11-23-2018 10:41 AM

Look through all the picture of this vintage 18 inch Powermatic planer. This is what Aj2 meant about the PM 15 being flimsy.
When I was working for the school district we have 3 of the older ones like this. They are really made much more substantial than now.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Powermatic-221-20-Planer-/132862807872

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Richard Lee's profile

Richard Lee

241 posts in 1160 days


#15 posted 11-23-2018 01:58 PM

You can also check your pressure bars, might help.

View WoodenDreams's profile

WoodenDreams

601 posts in 296 days


#16 posted 11-23-2018 10:21 PM

Is there wood shavings under the board when feeding it in. A little upward pressure helps, as the board feeds in & out. if you have a short infeed or outfeed table, this is normal. A little lift at both ends make a difference, to take pressure off rollers. feeding in with no or little support puts pressure on the opposite rollers, the board tips upward into the cutting blades. this is why it’s a good idea to cut your boards a few inches longer or lift a little when feeding or exiting with longer boards then the feed tables. Then cut your boards to size after they’ve been run through the planner.

View nickerbocker's profile

nickerbocker

2 posts in 1243 days


#17 posted 03-04-2019 03:18 PM

After a couple of nights struggling with the same issue, i finally managed to eliminate snipe from my 15hh.
Initially I made some progress with raising the bed rollers just slightly about the table but in the end the rollers are below. The secret for me, was infeed/outfeed pressure rollers. I increased the pressure 1/4 turn and snipe is gone. I also had to raise the infeed roller slightly for everything to work properly. boards do occasionally get hung on the far edge of the infeed bedroller slot, but a slight angle allows for a smooth feed. btw, i call JPW support and the first words out of the tech’s mouth were “Do not adjust pressure rollers”. Someday, i may realize the consequences but for now my boards are flat and can be cut to length without adjusting for snipe. Anyway, hope someone finds this useful.

View summerfi's profile

summerfi

4240 posts in 2072 days


#18 posted 03-04-2019 03:43 PM

This is an older thread, but I’ll just share that I recently noticed there was a buildup of sawdust, pitch, or whatever on the bedrollers of my PM15HH. I think this could potentially contribute to a snipe issue. Also, regarding moving the machine by pulling/pushing on the bed extensions, that’s what the retractable round bars beneath the bed are for.

-- Bob, Missoula, MT -- Rocky Mountain Saw Works http://www.rmsaws.com/p/about-us.html -- ~Non multa sed multum~

View Fuzzybearz's profile

Fuzzybearz

104 posts in 454 days


#19 posted 03-04-2019 04:16 PM

Those bars stop exactly where you need them to keep going : (. It’s so awkward to grab them and move the table

And I’ve also used compressed air to clean it out to no avail : /. Running a piece before and after it helps but not as good as it used to


This is an older thread, but I ll just share that I recently noticed there was a buildup of sawdust, pitch, or whatever on the bedrollers of my PM15HH. I think this could potentially contribute to a snipe issue. Also, regarding moving the machine by pulling/pushing on the bed extensions, that s what the retractable round bars beneath the bed are for.

- summerfi


View Jeff Heath's profile

Jeff Heath

107 posts in 3454 days


#20 posted 03-04-2019 04:44 PM

Eliminating snipe is easily done on a quality industrial planer by going through the settings of various components of the machine. Infeed and outfeed table adjustments really don’t have anything to do with setting up a machine correctly, although raising the outfeed table can sometimes account for eliminating snipe in some conditions, as it masks the real issue causing the problem, which can be improperly set bed rollers.

If your machine is asian made, I am personally not sure of whether or not you can make the necessary adjustments. On American made Powermatic planers (vintage), these settings, and the procedure to set them all correctly, is clearly written in their maintenance schedule. Here’s a link to a copy of the maintenance schedule for my planer, which is a Powermatic 221D 20” planer.

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=19979

If you read through it, you will see that there are settings for your infeed and outfeed rollers (top rollers, before and after the cutterhead), as well as the pressure bar. Typically, a setting of these at 1/32”, or .03125, below the cutting arc of your cutterhead, will be sufficient for proper feeding and pressure.

Your bed rollers are needed to be set properly, also, and are usually the number one cause for snipe. For finishing planing, you’ll want your bed rollers set around .008” above the bed, and for roughing planer settings, around .040”. My Powermatic has a quick adjustment setting that allows me to switch back and forth from these settings with the movement of a handle. I doubt your asian machine has this feature, so it would be best to set them at .008”, or a little more, and play with the setting until you find the “sweet spot” for your machine.

For instance, the settings for my 20” Powermatic, a finishing planer, are quite different than the settings for my 30” Whitney planer, which is a much heavier machine, capable of removing 3/16” in one pass, with segmented, spring loaded infeed rollers.

Your pressure bar also needs to be set, if possible. Typically, set it the same as the infeed and outfeed rollers, around .03125” (or just around 30 thou).

Once you get a feel for changing these settings on your machine, if possible, you will quickly learn to adjust these settings, up or down, for the type of work you’re doing.

Hope this helps. I’m honestly not sure if your machine is adjustable in this way. I don’t own any asian machines.

-- Jeff Heath

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