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View FancyShoes's profile

Tried to hand plane

by FancyShoes
posted 11-10-2018 02:43 AM


15 replies so far

View TravisH's profile

TravisH

651 posts in 2236 days


#1 posted 11-10-2018 03:11 AM

Likely change in grain. Interlocked grain. etc… Have to change approach angle in that spot typically. Even then some woods just tricky. A different blade angle or plane with bed angle can help. Some times just have to get it as close as one can then finish up with a card scraper.

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2062 posts in 2099 days


#2 posted 11-10-2018 03:29 AM

Did you set up your plane to take a fine shaving on a piece of short scrap wood. From the looks of you’re pic that’s a heavy shaving.
After the blade is set for a lite shaving work down the high spots. This all depends on your ability to have a truly sharp blade.
Don’t give up endeavor to purserver
Good luck and go with the grain :)

-- Aj

View FancyShoes's profile

FancyShoes

592 posts in 1665 days


#3 posted 11-10-2018 03:34 AM

I did set it on a piece of pine. That could still be a problem. I will try that tomorrow. I really need a good bench soon. C clamp did not hold the wood good enough either

View Manitario's profile

Manitario

2738 posts in 3184 days


#4 posted 11-10-2018 03:34 AM

Take a deep breath….Handplaning is a skill and takes practice. The first time I used a hand plane I had the same reaction; it didn’t produce nice shavings and mostly dug into the wood. You’ll get a lot of advice here, but honestly, the two best things you can do is learn to sharpen and get a good book on handplanes, it’ll teach you how to set one up so that it actually works for you.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View lumbering_on's profile

lumbering_on

578 posts in 791 days


#5 posted 11-10-2018 03:34 AM

I’m willing to bet we’ve all been there, done that and got the t-shirt. I usually avoid planing wood with interlocking grains if I’m just about to finish it. Sand paper or a card scraper is your friend in this case. If you have to, or at least want to plane, then I’ve found that setting the cutting depth as shallow as possible and planing at an angle, rather than in the direction of the grain is the best method. In addition don’t go at it like a bull in a china shop that way if you feel it starting to bite, you can minimize any tear out.

Note, you can still get tear out with a plane even if you’re following these steps. Best of luck.

View FancyShoes's profile

FancyShoes

592 posts in 1665 days


#6 posted 11-10-2018 04:31 AM

Thanks for the tips. I wanted to do hand plane finishes so I would not have to sand. I like the finish the planes give.

WellI guess I better get a good benchfor planing.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10844 posts in 1787 days


#7 posted 11-10-2018 05:19 AM

Sharp edges like steps?

The iron should never be sharpened straight across. Unless it’s a rabbet plane.

Some, like myself, relieve the edge as well as putting a little camber in it. Making the ends of the iron slightly curved.

Others just camber the iron. No wrong way to do it. Preference really.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

22415 posts in 2984 days


#8 posted 11-10-2018 05:31 AM

IF it “digs” into the same side each time….tilt the iron with the lateral lever…until it no longer does…

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View RobbieB's profile

RobbieB

11 posts in 525 days


#9 posted 11-10-2018 08:33 AM

What type of plane are you using? Also. you said ‘even with a new blade’ – did you sharpen the blade first? Most new plane blades will not be sharp.

View robscastle's profile

robscastle

5734 posts in 2505 days


#10 posted 11-10-2018 11:25 AM

A good plane tune up is possibly needed, however the skills required are not something you get imediately.
Manitario and lumbering_on provide some good advice.

With lots of practice and you will be soon doing this !!
BTW You may need earplugs!

Acknowledgements to Pottz
In fact have a look at his post there are some interesting notes there, (I hope you dont mind wading through all the prattle!)

And dont forget its the only time you back bevel

-- Regards Rob

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2155 posts in 2290 days


#11 posted 11-10-2018 01:05 PM

Hand planes and finishing have a lot in common – don’t learn a new skill on a current project. Use scrap to try, and then perfect the skill, with new things. Don’t fret, you’re now a member of a huge club of folks who have gone through the same thing.

Sharp blade edges are most important, and if a bevel down bench plane, proper tuning and placement of the chipbreaker. Read here for hand plane tuning. Once properly tuned up, on scrap, set the iron for no contact with the wood, slowly advance the edge until the slightest whisper shaving are made, and now move the plane around to different sections of the board and take several strokes. Adjust the skew lever to each side. Advance the blade with just a nudge and repeat. Keep repeating, adjusting the blade up and down, the skew side to side, to develop a “feel” for how much blade adjustment changes the thickness of the chip and where the edge cuts on the blade. Keep practicing. Then get a board of diffrerent material and do the same thing. Repeat. Keep at it, skill development takes time. There is a reason athletes spend hours and hours on the practice field prior to games.

View DWDave's profile

DWDave

2 posts in 133 days


#12 posted 11-10-2018 06:39 PM

Don’t get discouraged, most here had the same problem when we first started, if we taught ourselves. I did, but now I love using my hand planes. I look for excuses to use them.

As already said, you need to be really sure your blade is sharp. and the plane is “tuned.” Also, when you come across stubborn wood, try turning the nose of the plane 30 degrees to one side of the direction you’re planing. Skewing the plane can help a lot.

Also try planing from the opposite direction, in case you’re going against the grain.

View PPBart's profile

PPBart

69 posts in 131 days


#13 posted 11-12-2018 05:06 PM


...The iron should never be sharpened straight across. Unless it’s a rabbet plane.

Some, like myself, relieve the edge as well as putting a little camber in it. Making the ends of the iron slightly curved…

I do also, similar to what’s shown here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBdxkliLVc8

-- PPBart

View diverlloyd's profile

diverlloyd

3383 posts in 2158 days


#14 posted 11-12-2018 05:24 PM

Take less of a cut and it looks like it’s digging in on the sap wood. I would take a finer cut and not try to force it. Forcing it on the edge like that its easy to lose control and tilt the plane just a bit and it’s going to dig. I assume by the way it’s digging you are right handed and letting the left hand not guide the front of the plane but using it to force the front of the plane down towards the wood.

View Phil32's profile

Phil32

461 posts in 204 days


#15 posted 11-12-2018 07:30 PM

I encountered a fellow in a shop in Nicaragua trying to smooth a large board with a hand plane. It was not going well. I asked the owner if I could buy the piece of wood the employee was struggling with. I was interested in using it for a relief carving. The owner agreed and priced it at US$5. Not bad for a 16” x 28” piece of exotic wood (genizaro = monkeypod). That solved the planing problem for the employee!

My traveling companions said, “You’ll never get that wood on the airplane!” It was too big for my suitcase. As I walked up the stairs to the plane, the pilot was at the door. “Nice piece of wood!” he said, and waved my on board.

-- Phil Allin - There are mountain climbers and people who talk about climbing mountains. The climbers have "selfies" at the summit!

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