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Veneer from plane shavings

by JADobson
posted 11-05-2018 03:19 AM


6 replies so far

View lumbering_on's profile

lumbering_on

578 posts in 1033 days


#1 posted 11-05-2018 04:32 AM

I would think that there just isn’t enough material in a shaving to keep it from tearing. Think of the difference of trying to pull apart a sewing thread, now try that with 20. It’s pretty much the same idea. You’re spreading the force across very few wood fibers with the shavings vs a lot of fibers with a piece of veneer. I imagine there maybe some wood that you could do it with, but I have no clue how you’d find out which spices it would be.

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JADobson

1446 posts in 2654 days


#2 posted 11-05-2018 11:49 AM

Keep in mind that this wasn’t a smoothing plane wisp of a shaving. This was the thickest shaving I could take with my jack plane. It was at least as thick as the commercial veneer if not thicker.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany — Instagram @grailwoodworks

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2447 posts in 2532 days


#3 posted 11-05-2018 01:08 PM

Interesting experiment. Do you have a gage to measure the thickness- calipers? Fairly cheap to buy $25. Pretty tough to plane oak and get a very thick shaving, and one that did not have “holes” of negative grain. A tighter grained wood like cherry or maple might stay together better. What bevel angle are you using? Tend to agree with your theory of breaking fibers so a low angle, maybe below 25deg needed. Very tight mouth to limit tear out.

Havent done any bending but heat is supposed to allow wood to bend, not moisture. Plane hot wood? Boil the wood then plane it? Just ideas.

View Tony1212's profile

Tony1212

365 posts in 2277 days


#4 posted 11-05-2018 02:56 PM

Within the last week or so, Pask Makes on youtube made a video that uses plane shavings as a lamp shade.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzl9P5sfrmw

He used a water based finish to get them to lay out flat, but the video did not show him sanding or scraping the shavings.

-- Tony, SW Chicago Suburbs

View diverlloyd's profile

diverlloyd

3691 posts in 2400 days


#5 posted 11-05-2018 03:34 PM

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TxvOMHoLRBY

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qSPob8zm77Q

The Japanese have been doing it for quite a while. First link is a starter the second explains that they iron the shavings flat before use.

View shipwright's profile (online now)

shipwright

8400 posts in 3341 days


#6 posted 11-05-2018 03:51 PM

This illustrates one of the reasons why sawn veneer is superior to sliced veneer. All sliced veneer has very tiny fractures from the action of the knife just as you describe. Sawn veneer obviously does not.
The difference between commercially sliced veneer and yours is that commercial veneer is cut from logs or billets that have been seriously hydrated (boiled, steamed) to soften them before slicing. I can’t say that is your whole problem but it is certainly a clue.
This incidentally is also why sliced figured veneer is seldom flat after it dries out.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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