LumberJocks

All Replies on UniSaw and SawStop TSA-ODC Over-Arm Dust Collection Assembly

  • Advertise with us
View SASGeek's profile

UniSaw and SawStop TSA-ODC Over-Arm Dust Collection Assembly

by SASGeek
posted 11-02-2018 01:50 PM


22 replies so far

View ocean's profile

ocean

188 posts in 1373 days


#1 posted 11-02-2018 02:20 PM

I don’t know the Saw Stop but the retro fit of their guard/OHDC to your Delta may be difficult, if not impossible (don’t jury rig anything that close to the blade – it has to be solid). Not personnel experience but I know someone who did that and it was not good (no injury but lots of flying pieces). The over head dust collection system, is a good idea. While not a true blade guard but it constantly reminds you of that spinning blade. PSI (has good reviews) makes a unit that is less than $200 that may satisfy your wife and keep you working safer. Heal up and work safe.

-- Bob, FL Keys

View MikeUT's profile

MikeUT

195 posts in 1899 days


#2 posted 11-02-2018 03:19 PM

When I was around 10 I made the mistake of going commando in jeans and zipping my zipper too quickly… My injury wasn’t comparable to yours, but it was shocking enough to be seared in to my brain a few decades later. That was the last time I went commando in jeans.

I hope this doesn’t sound rude, but didn’t you learn your lesson? Adding overarm dust collection or even replacing your saw won’t magically make you more careful. Looking at the scars on your hand as you power on the saw should help.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5802 posts in 3033 days


#3 posted 11-02-2018 04:16 PM

You could consider the Shark Guard system, it would be made to fit your saw and you wouldn’t be cobbling things together.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View eflanders's profile

eflanders

326 posts in 2390 days


#4 posted 11-02-2018 04:21 PM

I own the Shark Guard but another option is Penn Industries over arm DC system.

View mathguy1981's profile

mathguy1981

94 posts in 444 days


#5 posted 11-02-2018 05:28 PM

I have some sympathy for you….two weeks ago I was feeling too lazy to get out the right tool for the job, rounding out a small circle of 1/4” hardwood, and I thought “Oh I can just shave the corners off on the TS free hand….
well I have 99.7% of a left thumb now…thank god I yanked it away before I lost more than the tip of the pad.

I have never felt so dumb in my entire life, as I have been using TS for over 20 years now and this is my first injury. Like MikeUT says, I learned my lesson.
My wife is also adamant about my safety, but all I had to do was show her the Saw Stop prices and she backed off :).
Do you have a GRRRipper? I had to move mine out of the way to cut my hand…the irony…:(

-- Two thumbs and counting

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7503 posts in 2739 days


#6 posted 11-02-2018 05:55 PM

Maybe I’m reading it wrong, but the TSA-ODC is just the hose portion, and attaches to a (sold separately) dust collection capable blade guard (sawstop TSC-DG). So you would still need to figure out a way to get that guard mounted, or improvise with another type guard. Might be easier and cheaper to look for a Unisaw specific solution – there are several out there.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Torr's profile

Torr

22 posts in 3186 days


#7 posted 11-02-2018 08:12 PM

Brad is correct, the TSA-ODC isn’t a true overarm guard, it is just the dust collection part that works with the sawstop guard. You need the industrial TSG-FDC which looks like it could be adopted to any saw.

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

4592 posts in 4282 days


#8 posted 11-02-2018 08:18 PM

I would have guessed that the “out of pocket” on 18 sutures and a plastic surgeon would be well over 2500 dollars…. but Sawstop is “unaffordable”?
Would half expect that SWMBO would “insist” on the investment, rather than a bit of Rube-Goldberg engineering of the dust collector.

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

View clin's profile

clin

1070 posts in 1536 days


#9 posted 11-02-2018 08:24 PM

I have a SawStop PCS and while I think the blade guard works well, I’d say it’s main advantage is the way it can be removed and replaced very quickly. Many people seem to find removing and replacing a blade guard hard enough they just chuck the thing in a corner and don’t use it at all.

So unless there is a way to do that on your saw, I’d look at one of the overarm guards that doesn’t attach to the saw near the blade. Unless of course, if one of the systems that attaches to the saw will work with your saw and allows quick removal, then that would be good. But I think that would require that the splitter have a quick remove feature like the SawStop. Or maybe it’s enough if the guard removes from the splitter fast, and the splitter then functions like a riving knife.

I don’t know what is available, but I think being able to remove or move the guard in and out of place easily is perhaps the most important thing to ensure you use it as often as possible.

Something else to consider, keep in mind your accident doesn’t fundamentally change your odds of having another one. So if you had it to do over, and could go back in time and replace your saw with a SawStop, knowing you were going to have this accident, would you?

-- Clin

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

4239 posts in 2528 days


#10 posted 11-02-2018 08:38 PM

Sorry about the injury. You just spent more money on the doctors and hospitals than a Sawstop.

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

2249 posts in 2569 days


#11 posted 11-03-2018 01:00 AM

Go Sawstop…
Or go Sharkguard for the Unisaw. I had the splitter version of Sharkguard on my now gone Powermatic 66. Wonderful safety device. With the PM66 now gone, about to buy the ARK for my 1997 right tilt Unisaw. Just waiting for Lee to get back to me about re-using my existing 4” port guard or not. A highly recommended product for safety reasons of blade guard and dust collection.
Which makes me wonder… how many (if any) table saw accidents have occurred with the Sharkguard in use?

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"

View Woodmaster1's profile

Woodmaster1

1279 posts in 3127 days


#12 posted 11-03-2018 03:18 AM

Probably the same number as any blade guard when used. The problem is the guard is usually was the first thing to go. I am as guilty as the next person on removing the guard but leaving the riving knife. I taught woodworking for 40 years and no Tablesaw accidents because they were required to use the blade guard. The last six years I taught the sawstop was what I used before that it was a powermatic with a Brett guard.

View SASGeek's profile

SASGeek

8 posts in 381 days


#13 posted 11-03-2018 01:49 PM

Thanks for all of your good advice. First I HAVE learned my lesson, the guard is for my wife, an effort to save my saw.

I think that I will go with the shark guard, now all I need to do is convince my wife that this is the fix for my stupidity and carelessness.
Thanks all.

-- Dick Shryock, on the rock bound coast of Maine

View SASGeek's profile

SASGeek

8 posts in 381 days


#14 posted 11-05-2018 02:04 AM

Well SWMBO agreed that the SharkGuard will satisfy her for now. No more injuries with pointed sticks or sharp metal objects. so I need to know what info Ineed to forward to SharkGuard. I have the following images:

-- Dick Shryock, on the rock bound coast of Maine

View SASGeek's profile

SASGeek

8 posts in 381 days


#15 posted 11-05-2018 02:05 AM

Oops not seeing the images, what did I do wrong?

-- Dick Shryock, on the rock bound coast of Maine

View Bobthewoodbutcher's profile

Bobthewoodbutcher

31 posts in 1649 days


#16 posted 11-05-2018 09:04 AM

I suggest you look at the Excalibur Overarm Guard. I have been using it on my Unisaw for at least 15 years and love it. Not sure who sells them or if the Excalibur name is in existance any more, but it’s a great product if available.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5802 posts in 3033 days


#17 posted 11-05-2018 11:33 AM



Well SWMBO agreed that the SharkGuard will satisfy her for now. No more injuries with pointed sticks or sharp metal objects. so I need to know what info Ineed to forward to SharkGuard. I have the following images:

- SASGeek

Lee Styron (SG owner) will help you figure all that out, just get in contact with him. Be aware, these things are not sitting on the shelf ready to ship, they are usually made to order so it may take a few weeks to get one. Also, it’s a small operation, so he doesn’t answer e mails within 15 seconds. But it’s a top notch operation with quality, and he’s a great guy committed to CS….in the end you will be quite happy.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View jmos's profile

jmos

916 posts in 2909 days


#18 posted 11-05-2018 01:03 PM

Sorry to hear about your accident.

Another vote here for the Shark Guard. I have the dust collection guard for my SawStop that I replaced with a Shark Guard. If you want the SawStop guard, it’s yours for the shipping.

I worked 20 years in oil refining (operations and maintenance), and saw, and investigated, a lot of accidents. I think the idea that experience will prevent accidents is nonsense. People make mistakes, and have lapses in focus. Increased experience may help with that some, but it is not all protective, as you’ve discovered. Safer methods are always the best solution (designing the process to make accidents as unlikely as possible) better but guards and PPE are a last line of defense, and should be used whenever possible.

-- John

View SASGeek's profile

SASGeek

8 posts in 381 days


#19 posted 11-05-2018 03:21 PM

Thanks John. I talked to Lee Sty this morning and ordered an ARK guard. I appreciate the help and advice from all of the Lumberjocks who responded.

-- Dick Shryock, on the rock bound coast of Maine

View SASGeek's profile

SASGeek

8 posts in 381 days


#20 posted 11-19-2018 04:16 AM

I have my SharkGuard installed on my saw and it is great seems to be pretty easy to use.

I do have one problem though, when I installed the Pawls it seems that there should be a small stud that screws into the support bar for the guard that holds the pawls in position for non use. Any one knows the size and thread of this part so that I can get one at the hardware store?

Thanks.

-- Dick Shryock, on the rock bound coast of Maine

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

2468 posts in 3484 days


#21 posted 11-19-2018 05:31 AM

Comments about the cost of a SawStop versus insurance claims paid by someone else and that require payments a fraction of the cost of a new SawStop aside, .....

My saw has an add on over-arm collector and an add on Merlin splitter, the latter which is pure gold for reducing kickbacks.

Further GREATLY reducing kickbacks is the use of push SHOES (I hate push sticks, they do not hold wood down back near where the blade comes out of the table and where kickbacks start).

As can be seen from the photos, I built a rack to allow me to reach up for forgotten push shoes.

On a final note, merely having a SawStop is NO reason to abandon good saw habits.

View jmos's profile

jmos

916 posts in 2909 days


#22 posted 11-19-2018 02:01 PM

As a SawStop owner I completely agree with Kelly. I assume my saw won’t trip and treat it accordingly. I hope to never find out if it will trip the same way I hope to never see deployed airbags in my car.

I also agree about push sticks; they’re dangerous. Pads are the way to go.

-- John

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com