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wood on ceiling --- do it myself or premade

by trsnider
posted 10-25-2018 10:11 PM


18 replies so far

View DS's profile

DS

3086 posts in 2722 days


#1 posted 10-25-2018 10:14 PM

A third option is to skip the retail, 100% plus, markup and buy from a local molding house in your area. (Wholesale, if possible).

Saves $$$, tastes great, and less filling.

Here’s one that Google found for me (as an example)

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

1284 posts in 2254 days


#2 posted 10-25-2018 10:35 PM

Based on the subject line I thought this was another table saw kickback thread. That’s how I got my last piece of wood on the ceiling.

Rolling your own is attractive if you have a special wood species or finish in mind. Installing pre-finished stuff has another, perhaps greater, appeal. I guess it depends on how you want to spend your shop time. If I had been given the marching orders I would probably just go with pre-finished goods and be happy with it. Having said that, when we blew out the walls and united our kitchen, family room, and dining room a few years back I insisted on “real” 3/4’ tongue and groove maple flooring. Then again, I was not milling, installing, sanding, and finishing the wood.

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1201 days


#3 posted 10-25-2018 10:36 PM

Just use flooring

View lumbering_on's profile

lumbering_on

578 posts in 792 days


#4 posted 10-25-2018 10:44 PM

I did a shiplap accent wall, and it was definitely cheaper, and I enjoy doing these sort of project. However, it sounds like you’re looking for an excuse not to do the work yourself. I’d consider either DS or Jbay’s posts as both have good ideas to do it for less money.

View trsnider's profile

trsnider

125 posts in 2312 days


#5 posted 10-25-2018 10:58 PM

Good idea DS thx!

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

1284 posts in 2254 days


#6 posted 10-25-2018 10:59 PM

I know that I don’t (shouldn’t) need to remind most of the LumberJocks, but you need to keep wood movement in mind when installing the goods on the ceiling. Years ago, my brother finished one wall of his family room with real 2 1/2” wide maple flooring installed on a 45 degree angle bias. It looked really great! Then came the humidity and the center of the wall bulged out. Not a huge amount, but enough to see and enough to spoil the effect. There is no easy way back home from installed tongue and groove panels. Whatever you do to correct the expansion bulge will certainly show. I live about 600 miles from my brother’s place so I don’t see it often, but as best I can recall the wall looks great in the winter and has a hump in the summer.

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

955 posts in 1796 days


#7 posted 10-26-2018 01:13 AM

+1 Use flooring material.

+1 Remember to allow for wood movement, and add space on ends/sides with trim boards to hide the gap. Just like recommended for wood floor installation. :)

Check out lumber liquidators before buying from a BORG store, or making your own T&G. They usually have unadvertised specials on small lots, seconds, finished/unfinished, etc. Local LL store occasionally even has unfinished T&G Oak ‘surplus’ 3-5 ft shorts for less than price of lumber alone ($1-2 bdft), and unless you mill your own trees or buy wholesale mill lots, it is hard price to beat. Note, Any store can order pallet(s) of ‘surplus’ unfinished T&G flooring (Oak/Maple usually), but price goes way up.

Best Luck.

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View trsnider's profile

trsnider

125 posts in 2312 days


#8 posted 10-29-2018 12:50 AM

My wifey found some stuff at HD ( :( ) she likes. Guess we’ll be using that.
She didn’t like the stuff at Lumber Liquidators.

View lumbering_on's profile

lumbering_on

578 posts in 792 days


#9 posted 10-29-2018 01:06 AM



My wifey found some stuff at HD ( :( ) she likes. Guess we ll be using that.
She didn t like the stuff at Lumber Liquidators.

- trsnider

My condolences.

View trsnider's profile

trsnider

125 posts in 2312 days


#10 posted 10-29-2018 02:13 PM


My condolences.

- lumbering_on

Well they may knot be that bad. The ceiling already has cedar beams, and these seem like they’ll work. I can put them up with a brad nailer and long(ish) nails.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-4-in-x-3-5-in-14-sq-ft-Western-Cedar-Planks-6-Pack-8203015/202106509

View Knothead62's profile

Knothead62

2600 posts in 3263 days


#11 posted 10-29-2018 03:55 PM



My wifey found some stuff at HD ( :( ) she likes. Guess we ll be using that.
She didn t like the stuff at Lumber Liquidators.

- trsnider


Why am I not surprised? Happy wife, happy life.

View theart's profile

theart

77 posts in 856 days


#12 posted 10-29-2018 04:28 PM



Well they may knot be that bad. The ceiling already has cedar beams, and these seem like they ll work. I can put them up with a brad nailer and long(ish) nails.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-4-in-x-3-5-in-14-sq-ft-Western-Cedar-Planks-6-Pack-8203015/202106509

- trsnider

The advantage of using this over some kind of flooring is the beveled edges. You can leave a bit of room for expansion at each seam and it won’t be nearly as noticeable as with squared edges.

View Ocelot's profile

Ocelot

2145 posts in 2940 days


#13 posted 10-29-2018 05:51 PM

OK. It’s all decided before I get here.

Aside from liquidators, you (not you, actually, because your mind has been made up for you, but some other you) might look at AdvantageLumber.com

View pauljuilleret's profile

pauljuilleret

106 posts in 1954 days


#14 posted 10-31-2018 11:20 AM

it a bit late but just got the pictures yesterday. this is my front porch ceiling I just finished started with 4/4 rough cut poplar milled it down to 3/4 and ran it through my shaper for the toung and grove finished it with a wipe on 50% reduction spar varnish. about six coats. hope this gives you some ideas also I see that the pictures are side ways I apologize for that but I don’t know how to fix them

View trsnider's profile

trsnider

125 posts in 2312 days


#15 posted 11-05-2018 11:56 PM

Title should have much ado about nuthin

Project is done. Observations:

The Home Depot product was the way to go. It’s light weight which is probably good on a ceiling, premade tongue and groove. The bad it’s flimsy, lots of cups warps and some twisting in pieces. The tongue is prone to break if not handled gently. It want up fairly easy with a brad nailer and some construction adhesive. I didn’t bother to scrape the popcorn off the ceiling.

My finish was a single coat of amber shellac. Maybe it should have been more – better we’ll see.

Flooring would have been to heavy for one person to do and would’ve been a lot more work with unwieldly pieces to deal with. We didn’t see anything at Lumber liquidators. No specials on appropriate material.

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pauljuilleret

106 posts in 1954 days


#16 posted 11-06-2018 11:05 AM

great looking ceiling something you can enjoy for many years.

View Sawdust35's profile

Sawdust35

47 posts in 1164 days


#17 posted 11-06-2018 03:40 PM

Original Poster, I recently completed a T&G ceiling framed by 5/4 and Crown molding. The most labor intensive part was leveling the ceiling with wood strips. I made the T&G from 1X4 primed boards using Whiteside’s router bit set #3374. It was cheaper than buying T&G pre-made and if you want to have all boards be the same width, you may have to make the T&G yourself. This room is 12’X12’. While my project will be painted, I was considering using soft maple on for the T&G, but to mill, sand, seal that hardwood would have been more $ compared to the primed boards. The T&G I installed is 5/8” think (thinnest stock the router bit set can be used on).

View WoodenDreams's profile (online now)

WoodenDreams

508 posts in 213 days


#18 posted 11-06-2018 05:52 PM

I installed 1/4” cottage board in our downstairs dining room, was quick and easy with a brad nailer.

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