LumberJocks

All Replies on best filler for knots in black walnut?

  • Advertise with us
View romeege's profile

best filler for knots in black walnut?

by romeege
posted 10-23-2018 07:48 PM


22 replies so far

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

9509 posts in 1527 days


#1 posted 10-23-2018 07:56 PM

I’ve dealt with similar knots 2 ways. One is to mix Walnut sawdust with yellow wood glue and use it like putty to fill it. The second, and my preference for your situation, is to mix some black dye in epoxy and use that to fill.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Andre's profile

Andre

2619 posts in 2194 days


#2 posted 10-23-2018 07:58 PM

Epoxy and or with a little charcoal?

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View Manitario's profile

Manitario

2755 posts in 3271 days


#3 posted 10-23-2018 08:00 PM

Depends what sort of look you want. I’ve used epoxy many times to fill knots; eg. West Systems. You can leave it clear, tint it etc.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View ScottM's profile

ScottM

736 posts in 2535 days


#4 posted 10-23-2018 08:05 PM

Just plain epoxy. No sawdust or fillers.

View Zonker's profile

Zonker

74 posts in 239 days


#5 posted 10-23-2018 08:05 PM

I have used Fiberglass resin in SYP with good results. It is very watery so you’d want to tape the back side so it all doesn’t just run out. It dries fairly clear and pretty hard, will sand nicely, but it won’t take stain. I’ve never tried adding any dyes to it, but I googled that and it seems possible. Hope this helps.

-- Larry A. - I've made a small fortune with my woodworking. The trouble is, I started with a large fortune.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8648 posts in 2965 days


#6 posted 10-23-2018 08:10 PM

Maybe knock it out and glue in a walnut dowel.

View Woodchuckswife's profile

Woodchuckswife

30 posts in 1698 days


#7 posted 10-23-2018 08:20 PM

Walnut saw dust and glue mixed like a paste fill and let dry, then sand with a lite coat of glue and let dry. then finish sand. I have don cracks that way and then later could not find them even knowing they were there.Good luck.
Chuck

View romeege's profile

romeege

21 posts in 3396 days


#8 posted 10-23-2018 08:32 PM

thanks guys…it looks like epoxy is the winner, but I guess the trick will be how to squeegie it off of surface flush… the piece is already finished

View Snowbeast's profile

Snowbeast

101 posts in 1726 days


#9 posted 10-23-2018 08:47 PM

I usually pack it full of walnut sanding dust and then drizzle with thin CA glue. Actually, a slight overfill works best. Then just sand flush.

Can’t help you much with the already finished part. But next time…..

View GaryCN's profile

GaryCN

410 posts in 4323 days


#10 posted 10-23-2018 09:02 PM

I’ve done that, fast fix as you can sand it in almost immediately.


I usually pack it full of walnut sanding dust and then drizzle with thin CA glue. Actually, a slight overfill works best. Then just sand flush.

Can t help you much with the already finished part. But next time…..

- Snowbeast


-- Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2267 posts in 2186 days


#11 posted 10-23-2018 10:19 PM

That is not a bad looking knot. Not every knot needs filling so I would not worry about it.
See what I did :<)

-- Aj

View pottz's profile

pottz

5263 posts in 1372 days


#12 posted 10-23-2018 10:29 PM



I ve dealt with similar knots 2 ways. One is to mix Walnut sawdust with yellow wood glue and use it like putty to fill it. The second, and my preference for your situation, is to mix some black dye in epoxy and use that to fill.

- HokieKen


ditto but already finished is tough.you could try and fill as close as you can then take a razor blade and cut it flush before the epoxy gets totally hard,but i dont know how good its gonna look.maybe just live with it.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View LesB's profile

LesB

2089 posts in 3831 days


#13 posted 10-23-2018 10:34 PM

I’m a fan of the CA glue technique. Much easier to use than epoxy. There are three thicknesses of CA glue. I find medium works for most cracks, knots (still in place), and voids. For larger openings I fill then with fine sawdust then apply a shot of thin super glue followed immediately with the thick glue. The thin glue acts as a wicking agent to draw the thick glue into the sawdust. Keep adding the thick glue until it stops soaking in. It can take 15 minutes or so for the glue to set up in a deep opening or use the accelerator spray.

I collected the sawdust from a orbital or belt sander with a dust collector bag attached. I have a collection of various sawdust wood types saved in small jars and use this technique all the time on lathe work.

-- Les B, Oregon

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

694 posts in 1491 days


#14 posted 10-23-2018 10:46 PM


thanks guys…it looks like epoxy is the winner, but I guess the trick will be how to squeegie it off of surface flush… the piece is already finished

- romeege

Since you all ready have finish on it, your options are more limited. Aj2 suggested leaving it alone which is a good suggestion if your taste will tolerate it. Otherwise, if you are very careful, you might be able to fill with epoxy just til it reaches the rim of each hole. Let surface tension mound it up a bit, but don’t let it run out onto the adjoining surface. Once cured you might then be able to carefully shave, scrape, and/or sand level without much damage to the finish. You will need lots of care and a bit of luck.

The thought occurs to me that you might be able to apply a coat of wax around the area before applying the epoxy. Just don’t get any in the holes, of course. Another idea: if the knot holes go all the way through, maybe you can apply some wide clear packing tape over the holes on the finished side and then apply the epoxy from the back and let it cure. Once cured, the epoxy surface should be close to flush and require very little work, if any. It might not be perfect, but maybe close enough, as they say.

View Rich's profile

Rich

4481 posts in 977 days


#15 posted 10-23-2018 11:02 PM

Even if you can level the epoxy, you will still need to give it another topcoat, otherwise the sheens won’t match.

Unless the area will see significant wear, I’d go with ebony colored Timbermate. It’ll be the easiest to level using a putty knife, and a quick touch up with 320 or 400 grit paper will smooth it completely. Then give it one more coat of finish to seal it.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

View pottz's profile

pottz

5263 posts in 1372 days


#16 posted 10-23-2018 11:32 PM



Even if you can level the epoxy, you will still need to give it another topcoat, otherwise the sheens won t match.

Unless the area will see significant wear, I d go with ebony colored Timbermate. It ll be the easiest to level using a putty knife, and a quick touch up with 320 or 400 grit paper will smooth it completely. Then give it one more coat of finish to seal it.

- Rich


yeah i agree either fill it and refinish or leave it be.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

4557 posts in 4130 days


#17 posted 10-24-2018 04:38 AM

plain clear epoxy – - NOT the amber T88, and definitely don’t get the Devcon 5 minute ‘blue’ epoxy in the double barrel syringe for that.

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

View Rich's profile

Rich

4481 posts in 977 days


#18 posted 10-24-2018 04:57 AM


plain clear epoxy – - NOT the amber T88, and definitely don t get the Devcon 5 minute blue epoxy in the double barrel syringe for that.

- DrDirt

How is he going to level that and blend it into an existing finish? You did read that the surface is already finished, right? (post #8)

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

View Serhij's profile

Serhij

3 posts in 238 days


#19 posted 10-24-2018 09:34 AM

An old time method is to use a shellac stick. I found it in Tage Frid’s book and have used it on walnut, very successfully. You melt the shellac into/onto the fault, then sand when done. You can buy the sticks, I made mine.

-- Serhij, https://wisepick.org/best-benchtop-jointer

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

4557 posts in 4130 days


#20 posted 10-25-2018 06:57 PM


How is he going to level that and blend it into an existing finish? You did read that the surface is already finished, right? (post #8)

- Rich


Epoxy comes off the finished surface…. that is why you have to rough up surfaces before using epoxy, and why you can just “Pop” the unused epoxy out of the plastic mixing cup.
Level it with a plane, and use tape to help prevent marring of the surround surface., and some sanding will be needed.

Filling a knot and expecting no touch-up/recoating is not even a realistic goal…even when using a shellac burn in stick, you have to pad on more finish afterwards

But I responded to the question in the title… “Best Filler for knots in Black Walnut”

(I see your solution, requires sanding and an additional coat of finish as well… so not clear what point you are trying to make in your response to me)

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

View tomsteve's profile

tomsteve

950 posts in 1607 days


#21 posted 10-25-2018 09:13 PM



thanks guys…it looks like epoxy is the winner, but I guess the trick will be how to squeegie it off of surface flush… the piece is already finished

- romeege

if youre going to go this route, use one that has a longer open time-something like bob smith 45 minute epoxy. that will allow you to fill the know, let the epoxy settle, then top off if needed. warm up the epoxy a bit to make ot flow in and level faster

View romeege's profile

romeege

21 posts in 3396 days


#22 posted 10-26-2018 01:11 AM

thanks again everyone,...you guys are amazing!!

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com