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Looking for a craftsman molding head bushing

by metalingwoodsmith
posted 10-23-2018 06:50 PM


7 replies so far

View Bill Berklich's profile

Bill Berklich

791 posts in 775 days


#1 posted 10-23-2018 06:54 PM

I don’t know the exact size you need but McMaster-Carr, Grainger Supply, and probably Tractor Supply will (should) have on that will fit. ~$5-$7

-- Bill - Rochester MI

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metalingwoodsmith

22 posts in 749 days


#2 posted 10-23-2018 07:48 PM

Ok I’ll check them out. Thank you

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metalingwoodsmith

22 posts in 749 days


#3 posted 10-23-2018 07:51 PM

This is what I got

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lew

12762 posts in 4142 days


#4 posted 10-23-2018 08:22 PM

The dimensions on mine are OD .745, ID .624, thick .218

Here’s something you ight be able to adapt-” https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL18568-Reducer-Bushing/dp/B009Q737OO":https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL18568-Reducer-Bushing/dp/B009Q737OO

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

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metalingwoodsmith

22 posts in 749 days


#5 posted 10-23-2018 08:43 PM

Thank you lew I might give those a try

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runswithscissors

3039 posts in 2411 days


#6 posted 10-23-2018 09:50 PM

I’d check out bronze bushings that you should be able to find at a hardware store.

I have used the Craftsman single-cutter molder, which surprisingly works pretty well. I did a number of door and window trims for a house built in 1900. They were 5 1/2” wide. I had to do multiple passes to get the profile I needed, combining cutters and grinding one or 2 to the needed shape. It would have been very difficult to achieve the profiles in the middle third of a 5 /2” board with a router or even a shaper. It was all tedious, but it worked. Needed quite a bit of sanding, needless to say.

These things are scary to use. I made a kind of tunnel out of wood that enabled the stock to move through the moulder without my being exposed to the whirling, massive tool. It prevented a lot of jumping around and held the wood securely from sideways movement. Of course, the tunnel was clamped to the fence.

Sears never bothered to sharpen these cutters, and the grind is very rough. Definitely give them a good sharpening before use. It won’t matter if the shapes of the 3 cutters are precisely alike. A couple of thousandths off won’t be noticeable.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View Jidis's profile

Jidis

22 posts in 450 days


#7 posted 10-27-2018 02:31 AM


These things are scary to use. I made a kind of tunnel out of wood that enabled the stock to move through the moulder without my being exposed to the whirling, massive tool. It prevented a lot of jumping around and held the wood securely from sideways movement. Of course, the tunnel was clamped to the fence.

That’s awesome, I did the exact same thing for the one I use on my RAS. Feeding stuff into it actually feels good for a change. Even if it kicked back it could only try to push the stock back through the tunnel. It’s like a play-doh factory. Mine is only set up to do 1×2’s for picture frames and such though. The dimensions also need to be fairly tight or I get chatter. Wish it were adjustable.

I’ve also got a giant slab of 1.25” particleboard with formica on all sides that’s about three feet long and maybe a foot wide for doing raised panels. It has T-nuts embedded in it for hold-down clamps. It’s so heavy and flat that it just glides across the table, plus it’s thick enough that the loaded panel sits above the fence. Cuts vibration way down like you mention for the other jig.

I love that molding head (got the three cutter one like the OP). One of my goals with my new machine tools is try to try to make custom cutters for it like you did.

Take Care

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