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View Simpleman1775's profile

How to finish board game (paper copy) on wood?

by Simpleman1775
posted 10-22-2018 12:05 AM


8 replies so far

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

1680 posts in 460 days


#1 posted 10-22-2018 12:16 AM

you should have practiced on similar wood before going to the point of no return.
I have seen projects like that that had less than satisfactory results.

.

.

-- Failure is proof that you at least tried ~ now, go do it again, and again, until you get it right --

View Simpleman1775's profile

Simpleman1775

43 posts in 1748 days


#2 posted 10-22-2018 12:43 AM

Wow, such sage advice… what was the point of that exactly? To tell me that you dont know? I came here to find the BEST way to finish it. I know a few already.

View TravisH's profile

TravisH

651 posts in 2232 days


#3 posted 10-22-2018 12:49 AM

Well you haven’t reached the point of no return.. You can practice on other pieces.

The issue you are facing is you have to set the ink. I have had some luck with a sealer. I have used Krylon crystal clear acrylic spray and Testors Decal Bonder in the past. Very light misting and multiple coats then have sealed with epoxy on smaller projects.

Print up some dummies and practice and find the least problematic set up. Essentially you have find the right combination that won’t dissolve the ink and will then later seal the ink from any topcoat.

Not the best look but acrylic sheet always a last option.

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Simpleman1775

43 posts in 1748 days


#4 posted 10-22-2018 12:56 AM

Thank you TravisH!

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

1283 posts in 2249 days


#5 posted 10-22-2018 01:07 AM

Three thoughts:

First: Google “decoupage”.

Second: John, is right, whether you agree or not. He might not have used the best diplomacy, but he is correct. Travis gave you the same advice, only worded in a way to more nicely point out that you should have thought this through a bit before gluing your Kinko’s paper copy down to some stained veneer before deciding on the next steps. It is good that you already know a few ways to finish your project. You probably won’t be getting many more suggestions.

Third: Very cool idea for a game table. With the proper finish it should be a very nice project.

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

1680 posts in 460 days


#6 posted 10-22-2018 01:09 AM

didn’t mean to be harsh . . .
what I do is completely seal the paper first – then adhere it to the board or other surface.
the process that you are in the middle of now may lead to bleeding of
either the ink or the wood or the table finish into the paper.
there are dozens of clear coats on the market. the one that I use exclusively for sealing
and clear coating is Rust-Oleum Triple Thick Glaze. glaze it first, then glue it down.
depending on the project, I will glaze the paper, let it dry, paint the back with white enamel,
then glue it to the surface. (and I practiced beforehand – to become familiar with the product).

-- Failure is proof that you at least tried ~ now, go do it again, and again, until you get it right --

View ColonelTravis's profile

ColonelTravis

1974 posts in 2191 days


#7 posted 10-22-2018 05:49 AM


First: Google “decoupage”.

- Kazooman

Exactly what I was thinking. But one thing that might give you trouble if you go that route is if you want to seal the game board and not the whole table. You could Mod Podge the entire thing and not worry about it. That may not give you a look you like, I don’t know. Maybe it would. If it’s just the board, you’re gonna have to make sure you block off your border well, and I don’t know if that would present any problems. My wife has used that stuff to decorate some old, boring TV trays. I’ve never used it, but the paper she used covered the whole tray. The sides can get messy depending on how thick you put it on there.

Would, say, painters tape do the trick? Something else? No clue. Maybe a Mod Podger can chime in. But this stuff is used all the time to fuse paper to wood. I’ve only seen it used by taking up all or nearly-all the wood surface.

John’s clear coat idea is definitely worth experimenting with.
Agree with the general idea of testing this before you try the real thing.

Good luck!

View Simpleman1775's profile

Simpleman1775

43 posts in 1748 days


#8 posted 10-22-2018 11:11 AM

Thank you to EVERYONE. I appreciate all of the feedback. I am going to try all of these. I purposely kept the cutoffs for this reason. I will give feedback once completed. I will also add photos of the completed project when done… or the bonfire that I make with it if it falls apart! It was a throw away table anyways. I only have about $40 into it.

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