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Jointer blade frustration

by YouthfullMind
posted 10-21-2018 12:02 AM

6 replies so far

View ralbuck's profile


6314 posts in 2875 days

#1 posted 10-21-2018 12:21 AM

Decades ago cutting firewood;we had a wood that was called ironwood- it did look like white oak. I learned then to set in my chainsaw chains on some other wood first—then cut that or; even brand new, not just sharpened—chains dulled very quickly. Why they stayed sharp lj ger after being set in; I never did find out.

It might be worth trying—may or may NOT make a difference. Trying it will be inexpensive!

Hope it works for you.

-- Wood rescue is good for the environment and me! just rjR

View Aj2's profile


2651 posts in 2407 days

#2 posted 10-21-2018 12:46 AM

What high speed steel are your knives? You might have to move up to carbide if this oak is that bad. I’ve had very good service from t1 the last white oak table I made.
Good luck

-- Aj

View YouthfullMind's profile


61 posts in 761 days

#3 posted 10-21-2018 12:51 AM

The 2nd set I used was T1. I’m not sure what the powermatic knives were, but I could tell that 2 different types of metal were used on their knives. I’m guessing it wasn’t carbide based on the lifespan. I was hoping to avoid having to spend a bunch on blades since I just bought the jointer. Maybe I’ll have to buy a set to finish my bench.

View Rayne's profile


1298 posts in 2149 days

#4 posted 10-21-2018 01:06 AM

Try inquiring with Infinity tools to see what they say. They make carbide tipped knives for many jointers and may be what you need for your white oak and other hardwoods for the future.

View msinc's profile


567 posts in 1113 days

#5 posted 10-21-2018 02:21 AM

Yes sir, white oak will dull blades very fast. I too have a 54A long bed and I recently went to a Shelix cutter head. It is easy to install and it positively solves the white oak blade killing problem.
It may not just be that you are milling white oak…local oak around here has a lot of minerals and grit actually in the wood. It is always better if you mill nice clean wood that is dirt and dust free. I used to think it was dirt or “sand” or some other grit on the surface that was killing my blades. Then I bought a saw mill and I take care to carefully clean my wood before I sticker stack it to dry inside. It does not have dirty surfaces, but it still killed my blades.
Not everything you hear about the Shelix is necessarily true…mine is no quieter than sharp, properly set up straight blades, it still has some tear out and it does not produce a smoother finish than freshly sharpened and properly set straight blades, but…it don’t go dull.

View Aj2's profile


2651 posts in 2407 days

#6 posted 10-21-2018 03:07 AM

That s a bummer I had a problem with hard maple just like you described. Finally figured out the black streaks I admired were minerals. I was able to source some opti steel. The faces are black and very hard. My next step would have carbide.
You can probably push your sharpness angle up to 45 maybe even 47.
And still have clearance. That’s should help a little if you have yet.
Good luck

-- Aj

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