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View Skiptloo's profile

Airplane propeller wall mount

by Skiptloo
posted 10-17-2018 10:09 AM


25 replies so far

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

2017 posts in 675 days


#1 posted 10-17-2018 11:26 AM

how long is the prop and how much does it weigh – (yes, photos will help).

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-- I am a painter. That's what I do. I paint things --

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Skiptloo

14 posts in 370 days


#2 posted 10-17-2018 03:15 PM

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Skiptloo

14 posts in 370 days


#3 posted 10-17-2018 03:18 PM

The weight is 36.5 lbs.
Length is 81.25
Height is 4” ( would like it 4.5” so the prop isn’t touching the wall;)

View JCamp's profile

JCamp

1004 posts in 1063 days


#4 posted 10-17-2018 03:29 PM

A buddy of mine built some shelves from black iron pipe. Something along those lines might work. Mount a base on the wall and sick some pipe out for the propeller to set on.

You could also build a big shelf to put under it and put something in the middle of the shelf to hold it up

-- Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might

View Skiptloo's profile

Skiptloo

14 posts in 370 days


#5 posted 10-17-2018 03:51 PM

I like that idea but leaning towards a cleaner look of at all possible…I’ll do your idea if nobody has ideas!

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

2017 posts in 675 days


#6 posted 10-17-2018 04:09 PM

depending on how far you want it to be from the wall,
“if it were my project”. I would build a wood base to fit behind
the yellow bracket that would have bolts epoxied in place so they
wouldn’t turn, mount that to the wall on a stud, mount the prop,
screw the nose cap in place and call it a day.
37 pounds is not that heavy for a single stud mount, IMO.
or, if you want to cross two or more studs, you could build a nice
varnished backboard to sort of frame behind it.
and since it will always be a wall hanger, option “B” would be to weld
two aluminum brackets on the back of the prop that will span two studs and hang
like a picture frame with key slots.

  • and that is one AWESOME gift for your wife !! Best Wishes in her retirement.
    .

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-- I am a painter. That's what I do. I paint things --

View Skiptloo's profile

Skiptloo

14 posts in 370 days


#7 posted 10-17-2018 07:06 PM

How many lag Bolts should I put through the mounting bracket (wood)

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

2017 posts in 675 days


#8 posted 10-17-2018 07:42 PM

not knowing the diameter or thickness of the wood, I would use 3 or 4
5/16” or 3/8” x 5 or 6” lags with flat washers to hold the wood to the wall.
(assuming the block of wood might be 3 or 4” thick, the bolts will be recessed).
alternating the pattern so not to run exactly in the same line.
predrill with the appropriate size bit.
then the six bolts protruding out that holds the prop.
then the yellow bracket onto that to hold the nose cone.
if you need a drawing, I can sketch one up for you.
a neat addition would be to find the red pennant that says
REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT – - – and attach it behind the prop – readily available on ebay.

[of course this piece of historical art would have to be way out of reach
of any youngsters that may want to hang off of it]
.

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-- I am a painter. That's what I do. I paint things --

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Skiptloo

14 posts in 370 days


#9 posted 10-17-2018 08:14 PM

I would love a sketch if you had time! I believe I do understand what you’re saying, but want to be certain. I just bought wood working tools and have been watching YouTube on French Cleats to hang heavy items. But if you really don’t see a concern about the weight, I’ll just screw it to the wall!

I will buy one today! What an awesome touch that would be! Great idea!

Thanks for everything overall.

This will be min. 9’ from the ground.

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

2017 posts in 675 days


#10 posted 10-17-2018 08:34 PM

members of the “Cleat Camp” often subscribe the cleats for things
that will sometimes be removed or adjusted for space such as cabinets, etc.
I doubt very seriously you will be removing the prop once it is installed.

I need to know how thick the round wood will be and the diameter and bolt pattern.

9ft off the ground leaves quite a bit of room for imperfections in the woodworking.
if you look for the red pennant on the web, try to find one that has been used.
anyone that has spent time on the flight line knows that they do not keep that
“fresh new look” for very long. (or you can artificially age a new one on asphalt).

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-- I am a painter. That's what I do. I paint things --

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Skiptloo

14 posts in 370 days


#11 posted 10-17-2018 09:05 PM

The wood would to be 3” thick and at least 12” round.

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Skiptloo

14 posts in 370 days


#12 posted 10-17-2018 09:07 PM

I’ll find a used distress looking red pendant. Almost ordered a new one:)

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Skiptloo

14 posts in 370 days


#13 posted 10-17-2018 09:17 PM

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

2017 posts in 675 days


#14 posted 10-17-2018 10:07 PM

hope this helps

since you are new to woodworking, I think you need to seek out someone
in your area that has a wood lathe that can turn the wood base for you.
then, you can do the sealing and painting yourself. (or have him do it also).
[I would go with a gloss white or matte silver color]
.

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-- I am a painter. That's what I do. I paint things --

View Skiptloo's profile

Skiptloo

14 posts in 370 days


#15 posted 10-17-2018 10:41 PM

Simply impressed!

Now would I pre-drill through and counter sink the prop bolts from the back side before mounting, or just put the prop up and screw it into the wood?

Thanks a million! You’ve gone above and beyond!

View Skiptloo's profile

Skiptloo

14 posts in 370 days


#16 posted 10-17-2018 10:49 PM

I just read previous post to counter sink and epoxy

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

2017 posts in 675 days


#17 posted 10-17-2018 10:53 PM

get the wood base made first – - – - then, we can discuss the mounting
methods . . . place the yellow plate and the prop on a cup or bowl, and balance the prop.
that will give you an idea of how thick you want the wood for a decent presentation.
the base of the cone will come within maybe 1/8 – 1/4” from touching the wood.
the base of the wood will flare out from there maybe 4-6”. (your choice).
tackle one obstacle at a time to keep it all simple. but basically, all the bolt heads
will be recessed to keep the assembly tight to the wall. the prop bolts must be epoxied
so they won’t turn loose. (I don’t want to confuse you with T-Nuts just yet).
you could glue a piece of felt to the back of the wood so it won’t “stick”
over the years and make a mess when and if it is ever removed.
looking forward to seeing your project hanging on your wall !!!

.

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-- I am a painter. That's what I do. I paint things --

View wuddoc's profile

wuddoc

353 posts in 4231 days


#18 posted 10-18-2018 01:40 AM

I am not sure if this would work but it would only require a drill, bit and wrench.

What about hanger bolts that have wood screw at one end for attachment into wall stud and machine screw thread at opposite end? Machine screw end uses nuts. In your case one nut to offset prop base from wall and the other to secure base to hanger bolt.

Hanger bolts are available up to 12” in length. McMaster-Carr list them as Steel Wood Screw Threaded Studs.
https://www.mcmaster.com/hanger-bolts

-- Wuddoc

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

2017 posts in 675 days


#19 posted 10-18-2018 02:21 AM

yes, hanger bolts would work the same as lags.
but to put things in order, the wood base must be fabricated first.
then address the hardware.

-- I am a painter. That's what I do. I paint things --

View Skiptloo's profile

Skiptloo

14 posts in 370 days


#20 posted 10-18-2018 05:01 AM

Still searching for someone to turn a 14” circle with beveled edge to a 13” top, 3” thick. I’ll call my local shops

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

6452 posts in 1225 days


#21 posted 10-18-2018 02:12 PM

if it was me doing it I would make it to turn LOL :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View JCamp's profile

JCamp

1004 posts in 1063 days


#22 posted 10-18-2018 02:26 PM

Just throwing this idea out. You don’t hav to have someone turn it for u could make a 14inch square then use a jig saw to cut it to a circle. Most jig saws will tilt so u could tilt it and cut the bevel OR use a router

-- Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might

View Skiptloo's profile

Skiptloo

14 posts in 370 days


#23 posted 10-18-2018 02:57 PM

If I can’t find anyone I’ll go purchase the items and do it myself:).

Thanks again all! I’m off to the races.

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

6452 posts in 1225 days


#24 posted 10-18-2018 03:05 PM

what is you location ?

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View Skiptloo's profile

Skiptloo

14 posts in 370 days


#25 posted 10-18-2018 05:18 PM

SPOKANE, WA

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