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View Martini1's profile

Issues using Sanding Sealer on Stained Oak

by Martini1
posted 10-10-2018 04:09 PM


4 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

5605 posts in 2960 days


#1 posted 10-10-2018 04:20 PM

Typically you apply sander sealer prior to staining. Always develop your finishing schedule on scraps before applying it to your project, that way you will learn of any pitfalls ahead of time.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

6040 posts in 3422 days


#2 posted 10-10-2018 04:27 PM

You can use regular old shellac as a seal coat. Since it thins with denatured alcohol (not water) it won’t raise the grain.

There are plenty of finishing schedules that use a dye, then seal coat, then some other colorant. Usually a gel stain as a sort of glaze, followed by the topcoat layers.

Even the time honored finishes aren’t foolproof. Many finishers get into trouble with wipe-on finishes, because the process often causes issues with the previous step. For instance, the dried stain may lift off in areas when you attempt to wipe on the seal coat. I spray all of my seal coats and topcoats to avoid these issues.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

1462 posts in 1425 days


#3 posted 10-10-2018 05:10 PM

It has become poplar to apply a “sealer” before applying the final finish. There are a few reasons for doing that under special circumstances but I don’t see the point in most applications. You would have been much better off without it.

View Rich's profile

Rich

5152 posts in 1198 days


#4 posted 10-10-2018 05:33 PM

The shellac likely didn’t raise the grain. It was probably already raised and the shellac stiffened the fibers and made it feel rough. All you would have needed was to knock it down with some 400 grit very lightly, just enough to knock off the fibers.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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