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Issues using Sanding Sealer on Stained Oak

by Martini1
posted 10-10-2018 04:09 PM


4 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

5414 posts in 2746 days


#1 posted 10-10-2018 04:20 PM

Typically you apply sander sealer prior to staining. Always develop your finishing schedule on scraps before applying it to your project, that way you will learn of any pitfalls ahead of time.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View pintodeluxe's profile (online now)

pintodeluxe

5938 posts in 3208 days


#2 posted 10-10-2018 04:27 PM

You can use regular old shellac as a seal coat. Since it thins with denatured alcohol (not water) it won’t raise the grain.

There are plenty of finishing schedules that use a dye, then seal coat, then some other colorant. Usually a gel stain as a sort of glaze, followed by the topcoat layers.

Even the time honored finishes aren’t foolproof. Many finishers get into trouble with wipe-on finishes, because the process often causes issues with the previous step. For instance, the dried stain may lift off in areas when you attempt to wipe on the seal coat. I spray all of my seal coats and topcoats to avoid these issues.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

1386 posts in 1211 days


#3 posted 10-10-2018 05:10 PM

It has become poplar to apply a “sealer” before applying the final finish. There are a few reasons for doing that under special circumstances but I don’t see the point in most applications. You would have been much better off without it.

View Rich's profile

Rich

4494 posts in 985 days


#4 posted 10-10-2018 05:33 PM

The shellac likely didn’t raise the grain. It was probably already raised and the shellac stiffened the fibers and made it feel rough. All you would have needed was to knock it down with some 400 grit very lightly, just enough to knock off the fibers.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

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