All Replies on rip blade for re-sawing, unexpected results

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View Spikes's profile

rip blade for re-sawing, unexpected results

by Spikes
posted 10-10-2018 03:28 PM

9 replies so far

View Aj2's profile


2648 posts in 2400 days

#1 posted 10-10-2018 03:33 PM

Your only giving us half of the picture. So im guessing your saw is unsized

-- Aj

View HokieKen's profile


11983 posts in 1740 days

#2 posted 10-10-2018 03:40 PM

When you’re ripping (in a single pass), each tooth is cutting only on the down stroke. When you keep the teeth engaged through the full cut (buried in the wood) it’s a different dynamic. The swarf left behind by one tooth would normally be “picked up” and ejected as the next tooth comes up through the kerf. With the teeth “buried” in the wood, there is no opportunity for the swarf to be ejected before the tooth engages in cutting. In short, I suspect that your kerf is just getting clogged up and since each tooth is entering and exiting only once per rev instead of twice, the swarf is just not getting removed effectively. The fact that it’s pine means there’s some pitch/resin in there too which makes it even worse. On top of that, the lower tooth count means there is even less chance for the kerf to be “cleaned out” and a FTG has no relief on the sides to help it move through more easily.

Note, this is an educated guess. I can’t say for sure but I suspect this is what’s happening.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View shampeon's profile


1900 posts in 2785 days

#3 posted 10-10-2018 03:44 PM

If you can use your bandsaw to complete the cut, is there a reason why you couldn’t use it for resawing? You’d have less waste, and a simpler process.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View EarlS's profile


3409 posts in 2950 days

#4 posted 10-10-2018 04:05 PM

Resaw close to the final dimension on the bandsaw and then run it through the table saw for the final dimension. That approach will also reduce the potential for burning the wood on the TS blade due to the scenario Ken points out. You will wind up with a more consistent final dimension and your saw blade will stay clean.

I suggest you also take the blade off and clean it before trying anything else. I’m guessing there is a lot of burned pitch on the sides of the teeth.

-- Earl "I'm a pessamist - generally that increases the chance that things will turn out better than expected"

View LittleShaver's profile


608 posts in 1221 days

#5 posted 10-10-2018 05:35 PM

Sounds like the wood pinched the blade to me. Sometimes this happens.

-- Sawdust Maker

View Spikes's profile


125 posts in 647 days

#6 posted 10-10-2018 08:00 PM

@HokieKen, very good explanation, I sort of guessed something like that might have been going on, plus maybe what @LittleShaver mentioned, I’ve seen some really crazy tension being released when I rip cut 2×4s in the past.

@shampeon , I have a very small benchtop BS, the blade is puny and I doubt it’d make it altho I admit I sort of guessed that based on some other small cuts and didn’t actually try the full resawing. Doing resawing on it after two passes on the TS on the other hand felt approachable because there’s a lot less wood to cut through and you have a groove for the BS to follow. That said, given @EarlS’s suggestion maybe I’ll give it a try, cheap test anyway. Will need to figure out an outfeed table tho, but that’s not too hard.

thanks all for your input, very useful as usual.


-- Don't worry about making progress, worry about practicing. If you practice you will make progress even if you don't want to.

View clin's profile


1075 posts in 1598 days

#7 posted 10-10-2018 10:53 PM

My first guess was also that the wood was pinching the blade. I still think this is possible, but of course would vary with each piece of wood. Though I could imagine that the way the wood was dried might have some effect that all might tend to do the same thing.

But, HokieKen’s idea sound plausible.

I would try making shallower cuts with the TS. If it is a wood pinching issue, it should be pretty much as bad once you get to full depth. If it’s the “swarf” (never heard that term) as HokieKen proposed, I’m sure it would be much easier on the full depth cut.

Also, if the “swarf” is the issue, then I would think you could make a full depth cut, but stop part way. Shut off the saw, and lift the wood and see if the teeth are packed with saw dust.

I also agree with making sure the blade is clean. Though since it was a new blade to start, that doesn’t sound like it would be the issue.

-- Clin

View HokieKen's profile


11983 posts in 1740 days

#8 posted 10-11-2018 01:26 AM

... If it s the “swarf” (never heard that term) as HokieKen proposed…

- clin

LOL :-)). “Swarf” is a metal working term for waste from a process. Not sure if it’s used in WW’ing or not.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View splintergroup's profile


3194 posts in 1824 days

#9 posted 10-12-2018 03:03 PM

My guess is also pinching of the blade.

When resawing on the TS, then bandsaw, you really don’t need to go the full depth on the TS cuts (maybe just an inch deep). These cuts usually are deep enough to act as guides when completing the operation on the BS.

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