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Trying to achieve a certain look with these pine doors

by kk78x
posted 10-03-2018 03:11 PM


10 replies so far

View LittleShaver's profile

LittleShaver

540 posts in 1015 days


#1 posted 10-03-2018 05:15 PM

My guess is that the original doors were shellac coated with an orange shellac.

-- Sawdust Maker

View fivecodys's profile (online now)

fivecodys

1430 posts in 2031 days


#2 posted 10-03-2018 06:11 PM



My guess is that the original doors were shellac coated with an orange shellac.

- LittleShaver

x2

-- When you leave your shop for the night, make sure you can always count to 10.

View kk78x's profile

kk78x

4 posts in 266 days


#3 posted 10-04-2018 12:22 AM

Great, thanks guys. Looks like I’ve got some research to do on shellac. I might look for something a little less orange but this gives me a solid starting off point. I appreciate it.

View kk78x's profile

kk78x

4 posts in 266 days


#4 posted 10-04-2018 12:45 AM

Hmm, I’m reading shellac on a bathroom door turns white. We never had any problems with getting moisture on our old doors and color changing. Maybe some top coat over the shellac?

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2317 posts in 2385 days


#5 posted 10-04-2018 12:48 AM

There are a lot of ways to achieve the color match. I would suggest deciding on the type of topcoat finish you want, based on the application method you will use, then “work backwards” to develop the full finish schedule. There are so many ways to do things, you can eliminate many based on whether you can spray or not, and the durability and gloss desired of the final finish. If you have kids I dont recommend shellac as a topcoat, and shellac may not be needed at all.

View Rich's profile

Rich

4494 posts in 985 days


#6 posted 10-04-2018 01:51 AM

Assuming the trim around the door in your first photo is a shade of white, there is a major color cast in the photo. Correcting the white balance results in the image below. If I’m wrong about the color of the trim, ignore it.

One thing I do see in the photo is that someone trimmed at least two inches off of the lock stile when they hung it.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

View kk78x's profile

kk78x

4 posts in 266 days


#7 posted 10-04-2018 02:47 AM

Ha, good eye. Lived in that house 10+ yrs and never noticed that. Seems they took a 30” door down to 28” for the bathroom. That color is very close too, thx for the color correction. I found a close-up with the color corrected:

Think I’ll stay away from shellac based on what OSU55 said. I’ve done very little staining before but could probably get a sprayer if needed. Dunno if that’s a good move for a beginner though, I’ll keep researching on this forum.

View Rich's profile

Rich

4494 posts in 985 days


#8 posted 10-04-2018 04:25 AM


Think I ll stay away from shellac based on what OSU55 said. I ve done very little staining before but could probably get a sprayer if needed. Dunno if that s a good move for a beginner though, I ll keep researching on this forum.

- kk78x

Yeah, I’d stay away from shellac too. If you have the facilities to spray, a pre-cat lacquer would be good. If not, go with a wipe on varnish. You can mix your own, but Minwax wipe on poly is a great product that’s very easy to use.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2317 posts in 2385 days


#9 posted 10-04-2018 02:50 PM

Yeah precat is great if you can spray. For wipe on, reg mw poly thinned 1:1. If you color with stain or dye you need blotch control for pine, read this. For wipe on wd lockwood oil based dye can be added to poly to color the wood, for lower intensity color which appears to be what you want. Precat can be tinted with Transtint dye. Many options.

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

5416 posts in 2746 days


#10 posted 10-04-2018 03:40 PM

Amber shellac, makes new pine look like old pine.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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