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All Replies on Gluing large panels for Lowes on top of each other

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View Scott1970's profile

Gluing large panels for Lowes on top of each other

by Scott1970
posted 10-01-2018 12:17 PM


14 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

5261 posts in 2652 days


#1 posted 10-01-2018 12:29 PM

You can do this as long as the panels are not pre-finished. Glue does not adhere well to finish. The biggest problem is clamping the center and you are going to need a lot of clamps. The best solution for applying pressure to the center are clamping cauls. You can make them yourself from any scrap 2 by material you might have laying around.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Mr_Pink's profile

Mr_Pink

149 posts in 672 days


#2 posted 10-01-2018 12:46 PM

Unless the bottom is going to be visible somehow, I would consider using screws as part of your clamping, especially in the center. You can then remove the screws (or not) after the glue is dry.

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

565 posts in 1403 days


#3 posted 10-01-2018 02:14 PM

Does the table top have to be 1 1/2” thick over it’s entire length and width? My first inclination would be to start with a 3/4” panel and then just thicken the edges to give it the appearance of a thicker top. Otherwise, do as above. Screws to help pull the two panels together is a good suggestion. Be sure to have everything flat during assembly and drying or you risk building in a bow.

Depending on how your are going to finish your desk top, you may want to use a top ply with a smoother surface than what ordinary pine ply will give you. Typical rotary cut pine will usually have a somewhat wavy surface that may telegraph through your top finish, even a plastic laminate.

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5364 posts in 3544 days


#4 posted 10-01-2018 03:48 PM

My first inclination would be to start with a 3/4” panel and then just thicken the edges to give it the appearance of a thicker top.
- bilyo

This is way I would do it. Keep in mind plywood is not 3/4”thick, but around 23/32”. I don’t think the thickness difference would affect what you are doing; just saying.
Plywood panels are never perfectly flat, so gluing them together presents a challenge.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

5128 posts in 2610 days


#5 posted 10-01-2018 04:07 PM

bilyo idea will work and is done often. If you do need a full 1 1/2 throughout like he said clamping is the problem. If the bottom side of the table top does not show or with be painted you can screw and glue the bottom to the top. The screw will be your clamps. When the glue has cured you can remove the screws, leave the screws there or fill over the screws. If you do decide to screw it together make sure to pre-drill and counter sink holes for the screws large enough in diameter so the screw thread do catch of the first piece. The will ensure the screws can pull the pieces together tightly.

You don’t say how the desk top will be supported so it any ones guess how long of span you have. The span may be the deciding factor in how thick the top need to be. It’s always good to include as much information as you possible can when asking questions.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1806 posts in 904 days


#6 posted 10-01-2018 05:27 PM

Can you get a 72” x 24” x 3/4” pine panel at Lowes?? If not, plywood sheets would work.

All of the above suggestions for glue up are good..

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

22415 posts in 2984 days


#7 posted 10-01-2018 05:47 PM

They are called ready panels. Made from a lot of wood strips, that were glued up into a panel…..Just about any width and length…not all of them are 3/4” thick, though…as some have been sanded. While shopping for two panels, walk past the 2×4s….pick out a few that have a bit of a bow to them….get enough to add a pair every 2’ along the panel’s length….one above, one below. Clamp them together, so that you are pulling the bowed part flat…something like this:
:) ll (: The dots are the c clamps.

use a cheap paint roller, to spread out the glue evenly across one panel….slap the other panel onto the first, and slide it around a bit, until you feel the glue “stick” things into place….add the curved 2xs, and c clamps around on the outside of the panel… Curved 2 x s go across the panel…..Let sit overnight.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View MJClark's profile

MJClark

34 posts in 185 days


#8 posted 10-01-2018 05:51 PM

I have seen something like this done once. They built a press with a few 2×4 on the ground, put the two glue sheets on top of that, with a few more 2×4 on top of that, and then 5 gallon buckets of sand on the top 2×4 and left it for a week.

View Scott1970's profile

Scott1970

3 posts in 175 days


#9 posted 10-01-2018 06:07 PM

Hi, Guys

Thanks for all the replies! I tried several of the ideas mentioned. Unfortunately, the wood split and overall I’ve decided the panels are just not that good. So I’m going with my back up plan.

I was going to order a Butcher Block from Home Depot and use that. But the instructions say it needs to be sealed within 48 hours. . So I decide I’m just going to order a counter top from Ikea and go pick it up.

Thank You to everyone for answering my question…............

Scott

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1806 posts in 904 days


#10 posted 10-01-2018 06:23 PM

Thanks for all the replies! I tried several of the ideas mentioned. Unfortunately, the wood split and overall I ve decided the panels are just not that good. So I m going with my back up plan.
- Scott1970

If the wood split then you had way too much curve in it. The curve is very slight, maybe only a 1/4” at either end.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View AZWoody's profile

AZWoody

1425 posts in 1525 days


#11 posted 10-01-2018 06:44 PM

I’ve used the Ikea counter top and I have a friend who has one as well. We’r both pretty happy with it. It’s actually a better option than your original.

View Scott1970's profile

Scott1970

3 posts in 175 days


#12 posted 10-01-2018 07:49 PM

Well, here is the latest update. The Butcher Block I order from Home Depot has already entering shipping which means I cannot cancel it.

I guess I’ll just see how it looks when I get it. If I don’t like it I can always return it to the store.

A new question for you guys, though. According to what I read I have to seal the block within 48 hours. How do I do that? And what is the least smelly way possible?

Thanks to everyone again….....................

Scott

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

565 posts in 1403 days


#13 posted 10-02-2018 02:16 PM

It depends a lot on the final look you want and how the top will be used. But, basically, most any water based finish like polyurethane should do the job without too much smell. Be sure to finish both sides with an equal number of coats. This will help keep it from warping and splitting. You might want/need to do some light sanding before the first coat and then again between coats.

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

1324 posts in 1117 days


#14 posted 10-02-2018 05:37 PM

You need to know about clamping pressure. The manufacturer of Titebond recommends 100 to 150 pounds per square inch to get a good tight joint. In your case, that would be 72 X 24 X 100 or approximately 86 tons. I really doubt you have that much weight handy. The point is that in order to have a stable product where the crack between two layers is not obvious and the surface is close to flat, you are going to need a lot more force than a couple of sacks of sand and a few heavy tool boxes. The large surface area you are gluing will help some but not enough. Fortunately, Mr_Pink already provided an easy solution. You need to screw the two panels together from the back side with a whole bunch of screws. I built a work bench top using this technique and drywall screws and it worked out well. After the glue cures, you can remove the screws or just leave them since they won’t show. Obviously, you also have to have a very flat surface on which to do your assembly since the table will be no more flat than the surface you built it on and there is no way to flatten it after the fact.

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