All Replies on Table saw rust!

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View jmanwoodworks's profile

Table saw rust!

by jmanwoodworks
posted 09-29-2018 01:28 PM

13 replies so far

View WhyMe's profile


1209 posts in 2172 days

#1 posted 09-29-2018 01:56 PM

I use a scotch bright pad and mineral sprits to buff off rust. Then I use paste wax to seal. Solution is you need to run a dehumidifier. I had same moisture problem rusting tools and started using a dehumidifier and no more rust.

View lumbering_on's profile


578 posts in 1101 days

#2 posted 09-29-2018 02:13 PM

I use a little vinegar and a non-metallic BBQ scrub pad. I’ve used both Minwax and GluideCote as a sealant and both have worked well.

View TheFridge's profile


10859 posts in 2097 days

#3 posted 09-29-2018 02:23 PM


-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View BattleRidge's profile


128 posts in 827 days

#4 posted 09-29-2018 02:26 PM

I use Johnson Paste Wax (available at Lowe’s and other stores) on my saws, jointer, etc. and it has done a great job of protecting from rust. I will leave it to others for suggestions on rust removal though and am not well versed in the area.

-- ~Art~

View Ripper70's profile


1373 posts in 1520 days

#5 posted 09-29-2018 02:40 PM

I use Krud Cutter on the rust. It’s always worked very well for me. HD sells it.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

View Willscary's profile


25 posts in 531 days

#6 posted 09-29-2018 02:58 PM

My new 725 rusted right away whithin days after setting it up 5 weeks ago. I used a scotch bright pad on a sander to take off the rust. The next morning it was back worse than before. I did it again, but this time I used (from suggestions on this site) the Johnson’s hard paste floor wax. I paid $8 at my local Ace hardware store for it. I put a coat on and left it dry for about 10 minutes then buffed off. I repeated 5 or 6 times over a 3 day period. This gave it a chance to really dry to a hard coat.

View WoodenDreams's profile


890 posts in 522 days

#7 posted 09-29-2018 04:55 PM

I’ll spray on WD40, let it soak 10 minutes, then I’ll use a sanding block with 240 or 300 grit paper and evenly sand the whole table top, wipe it down good, then spray a dry lube with NO silicon onto the surface, wait 10 minutes and wipe off the surfaces with a clean cotton rag. waalla. Don’t use a silicon dry lube. Silicon residue will stay on the surface and transfer to the wood. could make staining and poly issues. A dry lube will help protect the surface, and help prevent rust.

View jmanwoodworks's profile


4 posts in 487 days

#8 posted 09-29-2018 07:28 PM

Thank you for all of you help everyone I really appreciate it!

View jamsomito's profile


457 posts in 1037 days

#9 posted 09-29-2018 07:35 PM

Paste-wax is a tried-and-true apporach, can’t go wrong. But it wears off too fast for me. Per some recommendations on LJ, I tried CRC 3-36 and it has been simply awesome. Clear the top of any rust or other chemicals, spray or wipe on the CRC 3-36 liberally, let it sit overnight, wipe off any excess in the morning. It has kept humidity-related rust at zero for more than 6 months now. I did get a drip on it from my respirator condensation and that did leave a rust spot, but I have had zero environmental problems. I plan on doing this 2x a year, and applying paste wax as needed only for lubrication. This stuff really works well.

View Madmark2's profile


752 posts in 1200 days

#10 posted 09-29-2018 08:02 PM

To clean rust off the top use some recycled motor oil. Let it sit and use a razor scraper to clean the rust and excess oil off. Run your ROS over the top with #120 grit to remove stubborn stains. Wipe the top with a cloth to remove residue.

As many have said JFW is the finish to use – often. Put several coats on over a week or two and buff well. Don’t forget to do the face of the rip fence and the blade itself. (Stand to the side on first start after waxing the blade – DAHIKT. )


-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

View mathguy1981's profile


94 posts in 516 days

#11 posted 09-29-2018 08:29 PM

I used a green Scotch pad on my orbital sander, WD-40, and then once clean, Johnson’s paste wax. I’ve never heard of the CRC 3-36 I’ll have to look into that.

-- Two thumbs and counting

View CaptainKlutz's profile (online now)


2281 posts in 2106 days

#12 posted 10-01-2018 09:09 AM

If you have new rust happening almost overnight, there has to be water getting on tool surface.
My guess is your humidity levels are above overnight low temperature (dew point) and you generate condensation on the table top. To minimize the rusting, you need to take two actions:

1) Cover the cast iron table.
Commercial magnetic saw covers are available, just little expensive IMHO. Can use an insulator (like blanket), or sheet of cardboard or plywood; goal is to have the moisture condensing on the cover and not the metal.

2) Seal the cast iron pores.
I like carnauba wax for preventing rust on cast iron, but if you have high humidity levels or frequent condensation; need to seal pores in cast iron. I have used Loctite Rust Neutralizer spray for 25+ years on cast iron tables (many auto parts stores carry it). It is alcohol based acrylic/latex emulsion that converts existing red iron oxide to stable black iron oxide and stops rust dead. Once pores are sealed, apply/buff wax like normal; and rust will stay away much longer. I reapply the spray anytime I see new rust, roughly once every 1-2 years. Suggestions above detail ways to remove rust before you solvent clean and seal cast iron pores.

There are several existing threads on rust prevention that offer some alternate methods for two items above.


-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View MrRon's profile


5813 posts in 3855 days

#13 posted 10-01-2018 04:17 PM

I apply a pure carnauba paste wax, available at auto parts stores. It doesn’t have any silicon in it so it won’t contaminate wood surfaces. An application usually lasts me 2 months before re-applying. It also leaves the table “glass smooth”, so wood slides over it effortlessly. I don’t like Boeshield.

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