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All Replies on TS/BS cast iron top cleanup - WD-40 and ROS, yes or no? why?

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View Spikes's profile

TS/BS cast iron top cleanup - WD-40 and ROS, yes or no? why?

by Spikes
posted 09-25-2018 02:03 PM


7 replies so far

View Planeman40's profile

Planeman40

1452 posts in 3272 days


#1 posted 09-25-2018 02:36 PM

I have been extremely happy with WD-40 for rust prevention. I must admit my shop is in my basement and is air conditioned, at least the air conditioned air from the living area above settles in the basement (cold air falls). For years I have periodically sprayed my machines with WD-40. I then let them sit overnight before I wipe them down with paper towels just enough to get the majority off.The “sitting overnight” allows the WD-40 to seep into the pores of the steel surface and force the moisture out. I have not only woodworking machines but metal lathes and mills. All have no rust and look great. I live in Atlanta, Georgia which is known for its humid summers. Some say WD-40 comes off on the wood, but I have never had this problem. I’m sticking with what I know works for me.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View Kirk650's profile

Kirk650

672 posts in 1260 days


#2 posted 09-25-2018 02:50 PM

I spot clean rust, as needed, with fine sandpaper and reapply paste wax. Just don’t use wax containing silicones.

My brother gave me a shaper, and it had a rusty top surface. I did use a ROS and fine sandpaper to get back to bare metal. The top had a lot of pitting, but I couldn’t fix that. I went to the paste wax, and applied it several times over a few days, and rust has been minimal since then.

I had an old buddy come visit daily for years, till he passed away. He’d visit and drink one beer (never drank any Miller beer) and as we visited, he’d put his beer on my jointer outfeed table. In the same spot, every time. I had to dry the spot and wax it when he left. If I did that, no rust problems. If I forgot, there’d be rust the next day. So, spot sand with 220 or 320 and rewax.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5756 posts in 3005 days


#3 posted 09-25-2018 03:02 PM

I have a friend who bought a very rusty jointer. He cleaned the rust off with his ROS (no liquids of any kind) and I was amazed at how well it came out. Inspection with a straightedge revealed no low spots, though even if it did it wouldn’t (probably) have been enough to impact performance. I do use WD40 and woven pads (Scotchbrite) to remove small spots on cast iron….and then my maintenance is simply paste wax, more like when I remember to do it.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View RobHannon's profile

RobHannon

317 posts in 1042 days


#4 posted 09-25-2018 03:21 PM

I have used the ROS with fine sandpaper or with scotchbright pads. They both fill up pretty fast, but it is effective.

View Steve's profile

Steve

1585 posts in 1094 days


#5 posted 09-25-2018 04:16 PM

I rehabbed a BS that had been left outside in the rain with a razor blade first, then I got some WD-40 rust blaster and some 600 grit sandpaper. Sanded by hand and the table came out great.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 1998 days


#6 posted 09-25-2018 11:13 PM

Razor. Wire wheel.

I’d rather evaoorust it and use wire wheel after than sand.

It may not be bad. But it’s definitely not good.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View lumbering_on's profile

lumbering_on

578 posts in 1001 days


#7 posted 09-25-2018 11:55 PM

I’ve had no issues with letting some vinegar sit on it for a few hours then a bit of hand sanding. YMMV.

I’ve used both Miniwax and GlideCote, and found that Miniwax lasts a lot longer, and seems smoother, but you do get a build up. So now I tend to use GlideCote in the winter when the humidity is low, and Miniwax in the summer. Seems to work well for the past couple of years.

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