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View Steve's profile

Guide Bearing for Slot Cutter

by Steve
posted 09-21-2018 03:47 PM


13 replies so far

View sras's profile

sras

5238 posts in 3667 days


#1 posted 09-21-2018 04:02 PM

This example is likely overkill but this is the general idea of what should work.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

11388 posts in 1677 days


#2 posted 09-21-2018 05:29 PM

Do you always cut the same depth? If so, I’d make a jig to set your router fence at the same location each time. Alternatively, if you have a lathe, you could get some UHMW stock and turn your own bearing(s) to the exact size you need.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Steve's profile

Steve

82 posts in 1548 days


#3 posted 09-21-2018 05:49 PM


Do you always cut the same depth? If so, I d make a jig to set your router fence at the same location each time. Alternatively, if you have a lathe, you could get some UHMW stock and turn your own bearing(s) to the exact size you need.

- HokieKen

Hadn’t thought of turning a bearing myself—an interesting idea. I assume you bore the inside to fit over an existing bearing?

-- ~Steve

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

7505 posts in 3906 days


#4 posted 09-21-2018 06:16 PM

Here my answer to what I believe you are asking ….
Why use a bearing, just set the depth of cut with the fence!
Many time I ignore the bearing on profile cuts, may even remove it, and use the fence for my depth of cut setting.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View Rich's profile

Rich

5001 posts in 1128 days


#5 posted 09-21-2018 06:31 PM

Unless you need repeatability down below maybe 0.01”, take a 12” piece of stock, cut the groove the depth you need and then use it to set the depth each time. Just turn the bit so one tooth is 90º to the shaft, press the template to the fence and move back until the tooth bottoms out in the slot.

Using an extremely hard wood like ipe or some other high Janka species will minimize any denting in the template for the best accuracy.

View Steve's profile

Steve

82 posts in 1548 days


#6 posted 09-21-2018 07:14 PM


Here my answer to what I believe you are asking ….
Why use a bearing, just set the depth of cut with the fence!
Many time I ignore the bearing on profile cuts, may even remove it, and use the fence for my depth of cut setting.

- oldnovice

This is basically the method I currently use, and while I don’t mind using a fence for many applications, in this case, I’d prefer a bearing.

I make a lot of these door frames from #2 walnut (lots of knots and irregularities), slotting long pieces that will eventually be cut down to 12” or 6”. Even with a tight featherboard, a bend in the workpiece can force it away from the cutter, leaving a long stretch with inadequate depth. A bearing allows me to work to a single point and cut down on waste.

~Steve

-- ~Steve

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1437 days


#7 posted 09-21-2018 07:14 PM

I would sacrifice a router and put it into a small table and keep it set just for that.

Otherwise it really isn’t that hard to set it. Make a test cut and re adjust as necessary, only should take a couple of tries, and a few minutes to do.

View theart's profile

theart

138 posts in 1093 days


#8 posted 09-21-2018 07:35 PM

MLCS caries a bearing for their three wing slot cutter that will do a 1/4” depth.

View Steve's profile

Steve

82 posts in 1548 days


#9 posted 09-21-2018 07:52 PM


MLCS caries a bearing for their three wing slot cutter that will do a 1/4” depth.

- theart

Thanks, this is perfect! How is it I’ve never heard of this company? Ordering their catalog ASAP.

~Steve

-- ~Steve

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

11388 posts in 1677 days


#10 posted 09-21-2018 07:57 PM


Do you always cut the same depth? If so, I d make a jig to set your router fence at the same location each time. Alternatively, if you have a lathe, you could get some UHMW stock and turn your own bearing(s) to the exact size you need.

- HokieKen

Hadn t thought of turning a bearing myself—an interesting idea. I assume you bore the inside to fit over an existing bearing?

- Steve

I would just make it to fit the bit shank where the bearing normally goes. If you use a hard wearing but smooth plastic like UHMW, it should last quite a while before wearing down. Just turn a handful at the same time and you’ll have many years supply. If you PM me the dimensions (ID, OD and width), I have stock and will be glad to turn you several on my metal lathe to get them precise.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

1948 posts in 2033 days


#11 posted 09-22-2018 03:56 AM

Whiteside sells what you seek:
https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/collections/slotting-cutters/products/6710b
Need a 6710 slot cutter, arbor, and B26 bearing.

If you order the extra long arbor, you can use 2 bearings, one top and one bottom to add flexibility in setup.
Having a router bearing assortment pack on had is really nice. Makes repairs during project easy with no waiting for order to arrive. I order my Whiteside bits from Hartville tool due generous wood net discount and free shipping.

Amana has similar slot cutter and bearing sizes too. Haven’t looked but would be shocked if you could not buy proper bearing for 1/4 inch cut depth from every router bit mfg that sells slot cutter. It is commonly used.

PS – Double shielded bearings are easy to obtain. If current arbor is long enough to add one, just buy proper sized ID/OD bearing. Most all of router bit suppliers have long list available for individual purchase, if you are not able get any locally.

Best Luck.

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View Steve's profile

Steve

82 posts in 1548 days


#12 posted 09-22-2018 02:24 PM


Haven t looked but would be shocked if you could not buy proper bearing for 1/4 inch cut depth from every router bit mfg that sells slot cutter. It is commonly used.

This is what I thought, too, but I couldn’t even get the Bosch rep to understand what I needed, much less have them point me in the direction of the right bit.

Sounds like I’m not tapped into the right tool suppliers. Thanks for the info!

~Steve

-- ~Steve

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

1948 posts in 2033 days


#13 posted 09-23-2018 08:23 AM



Sounds like I m not tapped into the right tool suppliers. Thanks for the info!
- Steve

Router bit suppliers – FWIW:

Fine Woodworking has done a couple of router bit comparison articles [#191–May/June 2007 & #137-Jul/Aug 1999]. Highly suggest you read these articles.
Before I knew difference between quality router bit and cheap off shore produced bits, I picked up router bits from many, many sources. After using best rated bits by FWW, my experience mostly aligned with the top bits they scored.

Canadian woodworking [Dec/Jan 2011] did a router bit review, but left out the top bits from FWW tests, so it’s hard to compare the results to each other. I think the Freud quad edge bits might score better than 10 year old article results on 2 edge profile bit tested. Although I find Freud aggressive profile cutting angles can create tear out on highly figured wood, that requires use of vastly different speed/feed rates from other bits to get best cut?
Hopefully some one will make another comparison test at FWW again soon.

Best Luck.

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

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