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View BlueWolverine02's profile

Advice on table saw purchase... do I buy this?

by BlueWolverine02
posted 09-19-2018 10:03 AM


22 replies so far

View Underdog's profile

Underdog

1261 posts in 2333 days


#1 posted 09-19-2018 11:39 AM

Here’s some ready-made advice for you in an LJ review:

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3822

-- Jim, Georgia, USA

View Ottacat's profile

Ottacat

497 posts in 2149 days


#2 posted 09-19-2018 11:50 AM

Having personally done woodworking with both a contractors saw and now currently,a cabinet saw I much prefer the cabinet saw. It is more accurate, more solid, has a higher HP motor so it runs on 240 but cuts through 8/4 hard maple like its butter. I’d go and see the Delta as well as investigate whether it comes with a true riving knife (I don’t know for that model). If it doesn’t come with one, I’d see if an aftermarket one exists. A riving knife on a table saw is a safety feature I simply wouldn’t go without.

View BlueWolverine02's profile

BlueWolverine02

4 posts in 182 days


#3 posted 09-19-2018 12:50 PM



Having personally done woodworking with both a contractors saw and now currently,a cabinet saw I much prefer the cabinet saw. It is more accurate, more solid, has a higher HP motor so it runs on 240 but cuts through 8/4 hard maple like its butter. I d go and see the Delta as well as investigate whether it comes with a true riving knife (I don t know for that model). If it doesn t come with one, I d see if an aftermarket one exists. A riving knife on a table saw is a safety feature I simply wouldn t go without.

- Ottacat

Yes a lack of riving knife is one of my chief concerns. I’m not sure if this saw has one, but I’m doubtful. And then at $200 for an aftermarket sharkguard, we are going way over budget.

Fwiw, from scouring the internet and looking at pics, I suspect it might be model#34-806 or something similar.

View ohtimberwolf's profile

ohtimberwolf

905 posts in 2649 days


#4 posted 09-19-2018 12:59 PM

Here is a review from a fellow LJ that you might like to read. I have not but I’m not buying the saw. larry

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3881

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.

View Planeman40's profile

Planeman40

1365 posts in 3058 days


#5 posted 09-19-2018 01:24 PM

I am a long time woodworker (60 years) and would want an old (but good) Delta Unisaw over any big box store’s contractor’s saw – and probably any saw they sell. Don’t let this one get away!!! Go see it and check it over. If it is all there, it runs, and is not damaged – GRAB IT! You won’t regret it. And if the table has a slight rust problem, discount the price a little bit and still take it. rust can easily be remedied and polished up.

And don’t worry about the riving knife. It is nice to have and it does help prevent kickback. You will be able to find a replacement with some more looking. You can even easily make one.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

1129 posts in 1858 days


#6 posted 09-19-2018 01:53 PM

I have the Delta 36-725 and have been happy with it, but my one concern is if the motor ever takes a crap you’re out of luck because it’s a special motor just for the 36-725 and a replacement cost more than the whole saw. At least with the Delta Unisaw you don’t have that problem. I bought the 36-725 because I was trying to save a buck but wish I had gone ahead and bit the bullet and bought a better saw without an integrated motor.

View mathguy1981's profile

mathguy1981

93 posts in 202 days


#7 posted 09-19-2018 03:03 PM

I would inquire about the model number on the older Unisaw and do some googling. If it’s a 220V 2hp+ saw, then you’d definitely want that over the newer Delta. If you don’t have 220v in the shop, you can get it run for about $300-400 and is a considerable upgrade to your garage. The difference between a larger contractor saw and a cabinet saw is night and day.

-- Two thumbs and counting

View BlueWolverine02's profile

BlueWolverine02

4 posts in 182 days


#8 posted 09-19-2018 03:07 PM



I would inquire about the model number on the older Unisaw and do some googling. If it s a 220V 2hp+ saw, then you d definitely want that over the newer Delta. If you don t have 220v in the shop, you can get it run for about $300-400 and is a considerable upgrade to your garage. The difference between a larger contractor saw and a cabinet saw is night and day.

- mathguy1981

Seller can t find a model#, but I suspect it might be a 34-806. It is 220v, don’t know if it is single or 3 phase. As long as it’s single phase, running a 220 line is within my capabilities.

View jonah's profile

jonah

2035 posts in 3596 days


#9 posted 09-19-2018 03:55 PM

The 36-725 is a decent saw, but it’s not near the stability, power, and reliability of the Unisaw. $750 isn’t a bad deal, but it’s not a spectacular one either, especially since the saw doesn’t come with a lot of extras. Around here at least, it’s fairly common to see older Unisaws in varying states of repair for $500-$1000.

As for a riving knife, you can add a Sharkguard with riving knife (the ARK version) for about $200. I have one on my Unisaw and love it.

View bigJohninvegas's profile

bigJohninvegas

585 posts in 1759 days


#10 posted 09-19-2018 04:19 PM

I would look hard at the unisaw. I was in the same spot as you trying to stay on a $600 budget.
Wound up with a rigid r4512 back in 2013. $400 in upgrades and it’s a good saw. Sure wish I had bought that unisaw that was on CL back then that needed an overhaul. It too was a little over my budget. But turns out would have been cheaper and better in the long run. Grab the unisaw today, shark guard in a couple months.
Long run you will be glad you did

-- John

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

5683 posts in 1010 days


#11 posted 09-19-2018 05:12 PM

TELL HIM $600.00 COLD HARD CASH IN HIS HAND THEN YOU WILL HAVE AN EXCELLENT SAW :<))
just hit img button above where you are writing then browse pictures

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View BlueWolverine02's profile

BlueWolverine02

4 posts in 182 days


#12 posted 09-19-2018 07:59 PM

It’s a 34-761, talked him down to $650, pick it up Friday. 220v single phase but only 1.5 hp. Tell me I made a good decision.

View rolltide35's profile

rolltide35

7 posts in 438 days


#13 posted 09-19-2018 08:10 PM

+1 on the unisaw. I bought a 34-450 back in early June, 220V. I had to add the 220v to the garage, love the saw. In my review found out that is a 1968 model. Runs great

-- Andy in Atlanta....(Actually Suwanee, pretty close)

View jimintx's profile

jimintx

899 posts in 1882 days


#14 posted 09-19-2018 09:02 PM

I’d call it a good decision.
I love having a Unifence!

Not sure I know what an ascu-miter is, but I do say that almost any aftermarket miter gage is a great addition relative to the standard original version.

-- Jim, Houston, TX

View ohtimberwolf's profile

ohtimberwolf

905 posts in 2649 days


#15 posted 09-19-2018 09:03 PM

Blue, you wil never be sorry. larry

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.

View mathguy1981's profile

mathguy1981

93 posts in 202 days


#16 posted 09-19-2018 09:12 PM

You made a good purchase. The 1.5hp will be plenty of motor for everything except the hardest woods, then just slow down your feed rate and make sure you blade is plenty sharp. I just got a Grr-ripper pushblock and I’m pretty jazzed with it, could help with the lack of a riving knife re: kickback.

-- Two thumbs and counting

View Planeman40's profile

Planeman40

1365 posts in 3058 days


#17 posted 09-19-2018 09:55 PM

I assure you you made a good deal!!! You will never need another table saw in your lifetime. Congratulations!!!

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7242 posts in 2496 days


#18 posted 09-19-2018 09:58 PM

Don’t worry too much about model numbers – a Unisaw is a Unisaw and parts will for the most part interchange between decades. That machine was made sometime around 1980, but you can date it with the serial number once you get it. It should be a right tilt machine, so you can get a disappearing splitter for it (they will not work on a left tilt machine).

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View jimintx's profile

jimintx

899 posts in 1882 days


#19 posted 09-20-2018 10:50 PM


Don t worry too much about model numbers – a Unisaw is a Unisaw … ...

It should be a right tilt machine, so you can get a disappearing splitter for it (they will not work on a left tilt machine).
Cheers, Brad
- MrUnix

I have seen those splitters on AMZN a few times and wondered if it would be a worthwhile addition to my 1999 model Unisaw. I never have had a splitter, so I don’t really know what improvement I would experience with one installed.

...

-- Jim, Houston, TX

View hkmiller's profile

hkmiller

124 posts in 379 days


#20 posted 09-20-2018 11:29 PM



+1 on the unisaw. I bought a 34-450 back in early June, 220V. I had to add the 220v to the garage, love the saw. In my review found out that is a 1968 model. Runs great

- rolltide35

I bought my 34-450 this year and did a refurbishment. What a great saw. I added the disappearing slitter and very super cool tools fence.

-- always something

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10844 posts in 1783 days


#21 posted 09-21-2018 12:05 AM

I have a 1.5 hp motor in my saw that I’d put my money against any 1.5 horse motor out there today. It’ll rip 8/4 walnut and maple like a champ. 3/4 stock will not slow it down even feeding it dangerously.

No question. Play around with a cabinet saw and you’ll see why they’re recommended. Beef.

I have a unifence. It’s pretty good. I slightly prefer a bies but don’t feel like putting it back on.

A cut a piece off the blade guard to act as a low profile splittle right after the blade. Works well.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View ruger's profile

ruger

83 posts in 392 days


#22 posted 09-21-2018 01:11 AM

that looks just like my splitter. i did the same thing.

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