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View Josh's profile

Help with anvil stand...

by Josh
posted 09-15-2018 03:04 AM


10 replies so far

View WoodenDreams's profile

WoodenDreams

605 posts in 300 days


#1 posted 09-15-2018 06:29 AM

Gluing should be enough, but for extra stand strength you could Glue your stand together as you want the size to be, then you drill several holes cross width ( 3/4”, 7/8” or 1” bore ), where the anvil will set on top of. Then drive a steel tube the size of the hole, through the holes the width of stand. Front to Back & Side to Side. This will spread the hitting force to more boards than just the center boards that the Anvil sets on. The drills bits are available in extra long lengths. just buy the bit diameter you want. And buy the steel tubes or rods 1/16 if not 1/8” diameter narrower than the drilled hole. Sounds funny but you will not get a 3/4” steel tube into a long 3/4” drill hole in the wood. You could drill a hole into a small 2×4 & go to your metalworker to see what size rod fits best. You may want use wood glue or a Spray Dry Lube to help the tubes or rods slide into the holes.

View Josh's profile

Josh

36 posts in 2685 days


#2 posted 09-15-2018 11:47 AM

Ok thanks for the input. I also thought that I would put a piece of wood on top to help distribute the force to all…kind of a top if you will. Thanks so much for the input.

-- Josh, Columbus, GA

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

1828 posts in 552 days


#3 posted 09-15-2018 01:10 PM

I will have a local metalworker attach 2-3 decorative/functional metal bands around them.
you have an anvil – can’t you make the bands yourself ?

and – that is a VERY nice anvil !!! where did you find it and how much does it weigh ??

.

.

-- Failure is proof that you at least tried ~ now, go do it again, and again, until you get it right --

View WoodenDreams's profile

WoodenDreams

605 posts in 300 days


#4 posted 09-15-2018 11:15 PM

There is a screw called “Truss Screw”. Carpenter use this type of screw to add a additional 2×8 or 2×10 beam to the already in place truss beams. I’ve seen people use these screws in decks. 6 or 8 inches long. Drill 3/8” holes, countersink, then screw them in with a impact driver or 1/2” drill with a 9/16” socket. do this to each one. I’d think drilling a couple holes and driving steel tubes would be less work.

View 4wood's profile

4wood

14 posts in 343 days


#5 posted 09-16-2018 03:40 AM

I have two suggestions if you decide to add the tubes. Get a flat bit a little larger than the tube and sand, file or grind the edges of the bit until you get the fit you want. Instead of driving the tube you can use a threaded rod with a nut and washer on each end. Start the tube in the hole then put in the threaded rod, attach the washers and nuts on each end and then tighten.

View Ripper70's profile

Ripper70

1275 posts in 1298 days


#6 posted 09-16-2018 04:55 AM

You may have seen this video already. But if you haven’t, you’ll see a similar build to your proposal that doesn’t use any glue. Just the iron banding.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

View Josh's profile

Josh

36 posts in 2685 days


#7 posted 09-16-2018 11:42 AM

It is a 100 lb. Emerson anvil and I purchased from this site:

https://www.centaurforge.com/Emerson-Anvils/products/484/

They are incredibly helpful and knowledgeable.

Thank you all for the great, clever, and creative ideas…I don’t really need the anvil as I’m more of a woodworker (weekend warrior type) but I liked the idea of the project and can always use something to beat on.

-- Josh, Columbus, GA

View uptoolateman's profile

uptoolateman

50 posts in 460 days


#8 posted 09-16-2018 05:22 PM

I built this anvil stand because we have to wheel it to the driveway. It’s built like a hand truck, when in place the t handle is removed. 1/2 allthread goes all the way through in the 4 corners and there are four 12” timberlock screws through the sides of the timbers. I used 4 pieces of 6×8 lumber with 2 pieces of 2×12 lenghtwise in the center. It is very stable and easy to wheel around. Round tool holders on the front side and 3 square hardy tool holders on the back.

View WoodenDreams's profile

WoodenDreams

605 posts in 300 days


#9 posted 09-16-2018 09:30 PM

I like how the video showed him method of building the base. But his Anvil contacts all of the 4×4 blocks. Also liked adding a dolley style cart ti move the set-up around.

View uptoolateman's profile

uptoolateman

50 posts in 460 days


#10 posted 09-17-2018 02:45 AM

The anvil we have on the mobile stand is a 160 pound rhino from Spokane wa. The removable tee handle is 4 feet long and it makes the anvil stand very easy to roll around on the 8 inch wheels. The wood stand itself is 12 1/2×14 1/2×22 high. The top of the anvil sits 32 1/4 which was a comfortable height for my son and me.

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