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All Replies on Tablesaw no longer starting up. Suggestions please.

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View twoblacklabs's profile

Tablesaw no longer starting up. Suggestions please.

by twoblacklabs
posted 09-12-2018 11:45 PM


18 replies so far

View Kaleb the Swede's profile

Kaleb the Swede

1906 posts in 2477 days


#1 posted 09-13-2018 12:07 AM

Could be the the switch itself is fried. That happened to me. That looks like a standard plug, you should be able to find a replacement. Cutech now owns steel city. Maybe contact them?

-- Just trying to build something beautiful

View twoblacklabs's profile

twoblacklabs

262 posts in 3199 days


#2 posted 09-13-2018 12:13 AM

Thanks. There is ohm across the “Thermal Overload”. I don’t know why the switch would have just died while it was NOT being used.

-- If You Haven't Got the Time to Do It Right, When Will You Find the Time to Do It Over?

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10734 posts in 4560 days


#3 posted 09-13-2018 01:05 AM

Sounds weird alright…

I’m looking fwd to knowing WHAT the cause was…

Good Luck…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: https://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/index.php

View CWWoodworking's profile

CWWoodworking

528 posts in 686 days


#4 posted 09-13-2018 01:08 AM

When trouble shooting electrical components, start on the outside and work towards the middle. Motors are the least likely to fail.

With that said, I had a 16/32 sander that did something similar. The motor needed reworked.

Used to trouble shoot electric components for a living in a non related field. Most problematic components were the following:

Switch(by far)
Transformer
Cords
Motor

View Bill_Steele's profile

Bill_Steele

564 posts in 2239 days


#5 posted 09-13-2018 02:07 PM

Is corrosion a possibility? On my contractor’s saw there is a plug connection between the on/off switch and the motor. I found some corrosion in that connection that affected startup. Once cleaned up the problem went away.

View theart's profile

theart

132 posts in 1062 days


#6 posted 09-13-2018 03:25 PM

First, remove the belt. Turn the switch on, and test the AC voltage across the motor terminals. If you get full voltage there, the switch and cables are good. Then, with the power still on, try to spin the motor spindle manually. Again, take the belt all the way off before you do this. If the motor runs, then the problem is the start capacitor or start switch. If the motor doesn’t run, it’s a bad coil in the motor.

My guess is the start capacitor/switch, since the motor will occasionally make a partial turn.

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

6444 posts in 1220 days


#7 posted 09-13-2018 03:39 PM

could also be the contacts got a little rusted sitting there look up cleaning centrifugal switch contacts possible CAP problem also :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View mahdee's profile

mahdee

4291 posts in 2275 days


#8 posted 09-13-2018 04:25 PM

My lath did the same thing and it was the switch.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View dday's profile

dday

172 posts in 1937 days


#9 posted 09-13-2018 05:39 PM



First, remove the belt. Turn the switch on, and test the AC voltage across the motor terminals. If you get full voltage there, the switch and cables are good. Then, with the power still on, try to spin the motor spindle manually. Again, take the belt all the way off before you do this. If the motor runs, then the problem is the start capacitor or start switch. If the motor doesn t run, it s a bad coil in the motor.

My guess is the start capacitor/switch, since the motor will occasionally make a partial turn.

- theart

this ..

View twoblacklabs's profile

twoblacklabs

262 posts in 3199 days


#10 posted 09-13-2018 06:28 PM

Thanks for the support.

Replacement switch to arrive Saturday.

Thanks again,
John

-- If You Haven't Got the Time to Do It Right, When Will You Find the Time to Do It Over?

View Kaleb the Swede's profile

Kaleb the Swede

1906 posts in 2477 days


#11 posted 09-13-2018 07:31 PM

Glad you found it. Also hope you are feeling better after the surgery too. Best of luck

-- Just trying to build something beautiful

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10734 posts in 4560 days


#12 posted 09-14-2018 06:17 PM



First, remove the belt. Turn the switch on, and test the AC voltage across the motor terminals. If you get full voltage there, the switch and cables are good. Then, with the power still on, try to spin the motor spindle manually. Again, take the belt all the way off before you do this. If the motor runs, then the problem is the start capacitor or start switch. If the motor doesn t run, it s a bad coil in the motor.

My guess is the start capacitor/switch, since the motor will occasionally make a partial turn.

- theart

This procedure, IMHO, is RIGHT ON!

Very good logic / procedure!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: https://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/index.php

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10734 posts in 4560 days


#13 posted 09-14-2018 06:21 PM



Thanks for the support.

Replacement switch to arrive Saturday.

Thanks again,
John

- twoblacklabs

How can a switch go bad just sitting there? Makes no sense… unless corroded contacts, etc. (???)

Glad you’re getting a new switch…

I would take the old switch apart looking for the OBVIOUS fault… It cannot be very hard to spot… You might be able to fix it!! (with no pain or strain)... :)

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: https://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/index.php

View twoblacklabs's profile

twoblacklabs

262 posts in 3199 days


#14 posted 09-16-2018 06:54 PM

The switch was definitely bad. One of the 4 contact points was completely burned away.

The replacement switch works fine. However, since it’s the exact same switch, I don’t really have that much faith that it won’t happen again.

-- If You Haven't Got the Time to Do It Right, When Will You Find the Time to Do It Over?

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3878 posts in 1082 days


#15 posted 09-16-2018 07:33 PM

Order a replacement now, keep it in a baggie taped inside the saw housing (windowpane tape it so it can’t possibly flap, and no where near a belt or other moving parts) so it’s ready to roll next time it goes bad.

That said this is the crap shoot of electrical parts in the year 2018, or recently before. Out of 100,00 parts easily 20% will fail to what most would call a premature life. If you have a replacement part there is no down time, or very little while you fix it. You know you have the part. How many posts here about I can’t find…...

The brightest part is you know the fix before it needs it.

Hoping it lasts 35 years.

-- Think safe, be safe

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10734 posts in 4560 days


#16 posted 09-18-2018 04:42 AM

YES!

Get a spare ASAP… while you can…

Did the Co. GIVE IT TO YOU FREE?

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: https://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/index.php

View theart's profile

theart

132 posts in 1062 days


#17 posted 09-18-2018 11:47 AM

A burned up switch could be caused by the motor being overloaded and drawing too much current. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to make sure the bearings and belt tension are in spec.

View jonah's profile

jonah

2079 posts in 3806 days


#18 posted 09-18-2018 03:04 PM

The switch looks like a super generic magnetic switch. You can replace it with any properly-spec’d 120V switch. They’re $15-$30 on Amazon. I wouldn’t worry about getting a spare now unless a few days without your table saw is a complete calamity for you.

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