LumberJocks

All Replies on Plane Restoration

  • Advertise with us
View EdsCustomWoodCrafts's profile

Plane Restoration

by EdsCustomWoodCrafts
posted 09-11-2018 05:39 PM


29 replies so far

View diverlloyd's profile

diverlloyd

3692 posts in 2401 days


#1 posted 09-11-2018 07:03 PM

Any of the sharpening machines do a pretty good job. If your doing it by hand then the veritas jig is really nice.
When flattening the sole of the plane make sure it’s back together and set up with the blade and chip breaker in it. Cast have a bit of flex to it. Also I have seen some homemade sharpening jigs that look like they would work well. They hold the blade and then move the stones over them.

View corelz125's profile

corelz125

894 posts in 1520 days


#2 posted 09-11-2018 07:24 PM

First if its an old iron make sure the back is flat. I use a work sharp its very beginner friendly and does a very good job.

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

17975 posts in 3550 days


#3 posted 09-11-2018 07:35 PM

If the back of the iron is way out of flat you can use the ruler trick. Basically you lay the thinnest rule youve got under the middle of the blade while flattening. This raises the blade up a touch so that youre only really flattening the very (cutting) edge of the iron. This will cut down the time it takes. Always start by flattening the back then move onto the bevel. Make sure your create a burr or wire edge before progressing onto a finer grit of stone. You want to remove that burr on the next higher grit. Move up to as fine a stone as you can go making sure youve got a burr during each phase.

Youll get it. The first couple of times its a pain and you dont know what youre looking for but once you find it, you’ll be well on your way.

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View DBDesigns's profile

DBDesigns

232 posts in 541 days


#4 posted 09-11-2018 08:29 PM

Everyone has done a pretty good job of addressing the blade sharpening so I will try to help with the sole flattening.
1) Find a flat surface in the shop. I have an old granite sink cutout from a counter top but your tablesaw is probably pretty flat too.
2) Attach sand paper to the flat surface.
3) Make sure the plane is fully assembled with the iron recessed away from the throat.
4) Rub the sole in a circular motion until you are tired and your hands hurt.
5) Go to the refrigerator and get a beer. Drink immediately. (No power tools after beer!)
6) Go back and lap the plane some more until the bottom is flat or you don’t care anymore. (Whichever comes first.)
Repeat as necessary.

-- I remember when Grateful wasn't Dead

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

17975 posts in 3550 days


#5 posted 09-11-2018 08:34 PM

i cant like that post enough ^

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View Ocelot's profile

Ocelot

2365 posts in 3182 days


#6 posted 09-11-2018 09:10 PM

A perfectly flat sole is not actually required, so try planing first and only go to the flattening if you need it.

The first time I flattened a no 4, it was very pitted too so I was working out the pits at the same time.

I used sandpaper on a granite surface plate. It took probably 10 sessions of 1 or 2 hours. I can’t remember. We had new twins at the time so when they were sleeping, I was sanding the bottom of this plane (in the evenings). Why did my wife tolerate that? I don’t know. But she did and it got flat… ish. I messed up and didn’t properly afix the sandpaper to the stone the first time. If the sandpaper is loose at the edges, it will round the edges of the bottom of your plane (a little). No biggie, but better to make sure the sandpaper (especially in the coarsest grit) is firmly stuck down.

Don’t think of it as something to complete. Just assume that for the rest of your life when you are not doing something else, you’ll be sanding your plane. One day you’ll look at it and exclaim “It’s flat!”. Then, go to the next finer grit.

-Paul

View greg48's profile

greg48

616 posts in 3301 days


#7 posted 09-11-2018 09:54 PM

Ed, nothing to add here except AMEN to the above.

-- Greg, No. Cal. - "Gaudete in Domino Semper"

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

23994 posts in 3227 days


#8 posted 09-11-2018 10:19 PM

And..do NOT use the straight edge & feeler gauge routine…..all you need to use is a black Sharpie pen…..make a series of lines across the soles….80 grit sandpaper ( sanding belt will do, cut to length, glue flat) and go until the lines are gone…..if you need more than a 1/2 hour….Usually I do not need to work that long. Do NOT hold the plane like you are actually planing a board…..finger onto the base around the handles….don’t use the handles.

Try this test, BEFORE you go grinding the sole….place the assembled plane on a flat surface. Use each index fingertip..press down at the ends of the base…first in the center at each end, and see IF it rocks any….then do the diagonals, and see IF it rocks….no rocking? sharpen it up, put it to work.

Biggest cause of a non-flat sole…is wear. Unlike wood, cast iron does not “warp”...unless it was in a fire. Or..there is a crack from being dropped, allowing the sole to bend a bit…all the sandpaper in the world ain’t fixing that.

K.I.S.S. It usually takes about a 1/2 day, for me to have a plane working like this..

and..

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View EdsCustomWoodCrafts's profile

EdsCustomWoodCrafts

932 posts in 1887 days


#9 posted 09-11-2018 10:33 PM

Thanks everyone… I am also thinking off getting a quality bevel jig .. I’ll prob get the MK2 from Veritas

Has anyone used it.. I think it’s slmost idiot proof lol

-- Thanks Ed “A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working. ~Author unknown” . Come check out my website for more about what I make and how at www.edscustomwoodcrafts.com

View corelz125's profile

corelz125

894 posts in 1520 days


#10 posted 09-12-2018 12:35 AM

Bandit you flatten a 7 or 8 the same way? Thats the one time when i am happy for a corrugated sole when it comes to flattening a #8

View ColonelTravis's profile

ColonelTravis

1976 posts in 2438 days


#11 posted 09-12-2018 01:33 AM


Thanks everyone… I am also thinking off getting a quality bevel jig .. I’ll prob get the MK2 from Veritas

Has anyone used it.. I think it’s slmost idiot proof lol

- EdsCustomWoodCrafts

I freehand some and use the Mk2. Some people have complained that it can sharpen your blade at an angle, instead of straight across like it should be. This is true if you do not tighten the knobs equally. If you tighten one side more than the other, your edge will be crooked. If you pay attention and tighten both evenly, this won’t happen. You can check by seeing how much of the screw is showing through the knobs. I’ve used it for several years and never had weird looking edges – but you have to pay attention.

I’ve heard the newer L-N honing guide is excellent and you don’t run into the above problem, and you also do not have an issue with holding chisels, which can be problematic (not always) in the Mk2. I do my chisels freehand so I don’t care. But with the L-N you have to set up your own angle-setting jig. Not a big deal but it takes a little time to make because you need to be sure you’re accurate. The Veritas jig has many set angles ready to go with its guide.

View Don W's profile (online now)

Don W

19371 posts in 3111 days


#12 posted 09-12-2018 09:50 AM

The good thing about the internet is if you ask the same question enough, sooner or later you’ll get the answer you want, right or wrong.

I always flatten my soles with the plane completely apart. First, the wives-tail about the plane needing to be together is false. It also forces you to hold the plane flatter. As Bandit said, don’t hold the handles and if they’re not there you can spread your hands even across both sides.

I free hand, and if you sharpen enough eventually you will to, but a jig keeps you from rounding the bevel edge. Even your cheap honing guide should work if you take your time and pay attention.

Make sure the back is flat.
Make sure each grit pulls a small even burr
Although having a flat stones isn’t an absolute necessity, for your first time i think it is very important.

Don’t give up. You’ll get it.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2448 posts in 2533 days


#13 posted 09-12-2018 12:16 PM

These blogs can help you tune up your plane

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8788 posts in 3121 days


#14 posted 09-12-2018 12:59 PM

Atoma diamond plates and a 8000 water stone will work wonders.

A Nagura stone may be used on the water stone if you want, I like it.

Paul Sellers strops after his diamond plate routine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gE4yVgdVW7s

Solid advice above.

“Don’t give up. You’ll get it.”
What Don W said. +1

View Kirk650's profile

Kirk650

674 posts in 1292 days


#15 posted 09-13-2018 01:44 AM

I flattened mine with sandpaper on a flat surface. As for the blade, replace it with a Hock.

Veritas for the plane blade sharpening, and I use DMT diamond plates and then jeweler’s rouge on a leather strop glued to a flat board.

And I need to sharpen one of my No 4’s.

View tshiker's profile

tshiker

62 posts in 1853 days


#16 posted 09-13-2018 04:22 PM

The best way is to try and find a member that’s close to you and arrange a meeting! Sometimes seeing someone do something will save a lot of frustration! I’m on Long Island. If that’s close, come on over!

View Sludgeguy's profile

Sludgeguy

57 posts in 666 days


#17 posted 09-13-2018 04:30 PM

I have the MKII and the Lie Nielson. The MKII is fine but the blade can slip from time to time. The Lie Nielson is expensive but it’s accurate and chisels and plane blades never slip.

View JayT's profile

JayT

6316 posts in 2755 days


#18 posted 09-13-2018 04:32 PM


The best way is to try and find a member that s close to you and arrange a meeting! Sometimes seeing someone do something will save a lot of frustration!

- tshiker

This! Other options: Is there a Woodcraft or similar store close by the might have a sharpening clinic? A woodworker’s guild with a friendly member?

DonW’s advice is spot on, too. I’ve never seen a difference between a plane I’ve flattened under tension and one that is disassembled, and disassembled is much easier. As he and chrisstef both said, keep at it and once you get there once, it’ll be a lot easier moving forward.

I’ll throw another offer out. I’m not close to your listed location, but if you just need to experience a sharp blade to know what the goal is, send it my way. I’ll sharpen and return it to you ready to work. That’s a one time offer for someone new to hand tools, BTW, not an open invitation for the rest of you. :-)

-- https://www.jtplaneworks.com - In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View LDO2802's profile

LDO2802

167 posts in 974 days


#19 posted 09-13-2018 04:34 PM

If you get the veritas MKII, I recommend you make a jig to ensure the blade is square in the jig. Its just a piece of wood with a stop attached that is perfectly parallel to the edge. That way you can ensure squareness.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

11431 posts in 1682 days


#20 posted 09-13-2018 05:34 PM

Awesome JayT! You’re a real pal! I have about a dozen chisels and half that many plane irons in need of a touch up. I’ll just box ‘em up and send ‘em your way ;-)

To the OP… some planes simply aren’t worth it. I’ve never ran into an iron that I couldn’t get sharp but, I have had a couple of planes that were either severely abused or just plain bad castings. If I can’t get it flat enough to work inside of 30 minutes, I cut my losses. It’s unusual but there are vintage planes out there that just aren’t worth the effort they need. Just my opinion. #4s are common, don’t spin your wheels if it’s bent or twisted beyond reason.

If I were you, I’d send the iron to JayT and let him show you what it should be like. Put it in the plane and start using it. Assume it’s flat enough. Then when the iron dulls, you’ll know what the goal is and then you can learn to sharpen it properly.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View ColonelTravis's profile

ColonelTravis

1976 posts in 2438 days


#21 posted 09-13-2018 06:14 PM

That s a one time offer for someone new to hand tools, BTW, not an open invitation for the rest of you. :-)

- JayT

Man I had 27 blades and chisels bubble wrapped in a box ready to go to your house then read this sentence.

View Dwain's profile

Dwain

599 posts in 4403 days


#22 posted 09-13-2018 06:23 PM

I’ll only add that your goal of “idiot-proofing” is a fool’s errand. As soon as you find something that is idiot-proof, then come out with bigger and better idiots!

Seriously, lots of good advise up here. I think it would be helpful to see your plane blade and sole so we can tell what is going on. I think the key to flattening the sole is to remember that less is more. I too use a black sharpie and run across sandpaper on a granite plate until the lines are gone. I also press corners to ensure no rocking.

As far as sharpening, I don’t believe and MK2 is drastically better than the basic guides you see out there. My guess is that you may need to practice more, and remember to flatten the back. That’s a common issue.

Good luck.

-- When you earnestly believe you can compensate for a lack of skill by doubling your efforts, there is no end to what you CAN'T do

View LDO2802's profile

LDO2802

167 posts in 974 days


#23 posted 09-14-2018 03:56 PM



I ll only add that your goal of “idiot-proofing” is a fool s errand. As soon as you find something that is idiot-proof, then come out with bigger and better idiots!

Dwain, while I would usually agree, I have had a hard time finding a way for someone to screw up the tormek plane sharpening jig. It is consistent and sets a nice bevel that you can polish afterwards. It seems to grind it to about a 220-400 grit and then I usually strop it on the leather and its good to go. The only downfall would be if you have an aversion to a slightly concave bevel.

View Kirk650's profile

Kirk650

674 posts in 1292 days


#24 posted 09-14-2018 10:49 PM

Use a sharpie and make marks on the plane blade edge, so as you sharpen, the degree of blade to stone can be seen. Adjustments can then be made.

There are many degrees of sharp. The better you get, the more you will realize what a mediocre job you once did. And, there are folks that take sharpening to some semi-religious degree. I think you will find your desired degree of sharp eventually.

View EdsCustomWoodCrafts's profile

EdsCustomWoodCrafts

932 posts in 1887 days


#25 posted 09-15-2018 05:23 AM

Hey guys I just wanted to post a picture of the plane as it is now complete.. I did end up getting a DMT diamond plate and along with my honing guide from Veritas and some combination water stones the plane is working great and the plane sole is probably the fastest thing in my shop lol

I am so happy with this restoration I am moving on to another plane which at this moment in time is only a #5 I can’t see a brand anywhere but I have a lot of crud and rust to Remove

-- Thanks Ed “A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working. ~Author unknown” . Come check out my website for more about what I make and how at www.edscustomwoodcrafts.com

View Don W's profile (online now)

Don W

19371 posts in 3111 days


#26 posted 09-15-2018 12:58 PM

Excellent!!

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View diverlloyd's profile

diverlloyd

3692 posts in 2401 days


#27 posted 09-15-2018 01:19 PM

Very nice it’s always good to see a old one working again.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8788 posts in 3121 days


#28 posted 09-15-2018 01:50 PM

Good job!

View corelz125's profile

corelz125

894 posts in 1520 days


#29 posted 09-15-2018 08:25 PM

welcome to the club before you know it your gonna be knee deep in planes.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com