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All Replies on making a box from rough sawn wood

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View CTGuy's profile

making a box from rough sawn wood

by CTGuy
posted 09-08-2018 03:58 PM


7 replies so far

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2263 posts in 2184 days


#1 posted 09-08-2018 04:56 PM

You are correct it’s going to be very challenging to miter all the corners and keep the rough sawn faces.
If your dead set on this look then I suggest you buy some wood to practice build with.
It doesn’t have to be oak. But I wouldn’t test on something too soft either.
Wood that’s flat or without twist Is a good start.
I only post this because I liked your salvaged wood and I wish you success.
Good luck

-- Aj

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

16124 posts in 3004 days


#2 posted 09-08-2018 06:42 PM

My worry is that the mitered edges will not line up smoothly: on one face we may have a ridge mating with the valley of the cut on the other face.

As in, mitered cross cuts and mitered cuts along the edges and ends of the boards… Yes, it will be quite challenging. How long is the mantle going to be, and how long are each of the three boards?

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

3385 posts in 1773 days


#3 posted 09-08-2018 07:26 PM

If they haven’t been planed on one side, chances are they aren’t straight and flat either. Sight down each long edge and see if you can detect any twist or warp. The sides need to be parallel to each other and at 90° to the flat face as well. If one face and one side are flat and straight, you may be able to fix everything on a table saw. Another problem could be that they are not a uniform thickness. That can be a little more challenging to fix without a planer.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5478 posts in 3629 days


#4 posted 09-09-2018 05:41 PM

You could miter the corners at an angle less than 45° as shown in the sketch, using the 2×2 as a back up. That way the rough edges will come together without the heels of the joint wanting to open the joint. You may then glue/nail the boards to the back up block.

View WyattCo's profile

WyattCo

93 posts in 490 days


#5 posted 09-09-2018 09:00 PM

This is a keepsake box I made last year for a customer. It is reclaimed pine that came from a building with historical significance. The lumber is approximately 130 years old. They wanted the original saw marks left in tact. All the joinery is miters.

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2263 posts in 2184 days


#6 posted 09-09-2018 10:27 PM

Well there’s your answer right there ^ send your wood to Wyattco. He can get it done

-- Aj

View CTGuy's profile

CTGuy

2 posts in 284 days


#7 posted 09-12-2018 02:41 AM

AJ and Lazyman, the wood was planed, but it has been sitting for a while and at least one board developed a bit of a bow. Time to start practicing. I have some pine and maple I can use.
Smitty, I forgot the exact measurements, but it’s a good 5 foot long and I’d say the boards are more that 7 foot. So it’‘shone shot deal for the long pieces.
Mr Ron thanks for the suggestion, that may help keep everything in place.
WyattCo your box is beautiful and you give me hope it will be feasible. How did you finish your box?

Thank you all for your comments.

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