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View Neophyte's profile

Examples of resin glue and where to buy, please

by Neophyte
posted 07-22-2018 07:43 PM


19 replies so far

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

1483 posts in 1730 days


#1 posted 07-22-2018 07:53 PM

No, construction adhesive is not plastic resin glue. Do a Google search for the unlikely topic of “plastic resin glue” and you will find the information you need.

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

2776 posts in 1077 days


#2 posted 07-22-2018 07:55 PM

this product contains ZERO formaldehyde – that is where the health concerns
came from. the old two part resorcinol glue that caused many health issues
is not made any longer in the USA .

I called the DAP technical rep last month about the formaldehyde issue and the
guy said that NONE of DAP products contain formaldehyde – at all.
so I know this to be a true and verified fact.

.

there is also another Resin Glue called CASCAMITE that is used in boat building. A little more difficult to find.
one is for smooth joints, non-gap filling and another type is for rough joints that is gap filling.

.

-- there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks. --

View RobHannon's profile

RobHannon

347 posts in 1445 days


#3 posted 07-22-2018 07:59 PM

They are probably recommending something like DAP Weldwood. Comes in a powder and you mix it when you are ready to use it. Long open time and very still so it is great for bent laminations. Never seen it in a box store though.
Liquid Nails and Dynagrip are construction adhesives, generally polyurethane based. They would certainly work for gluing plywood to plywood, but I don’t know why they would be any benefit to them over regular PVA wood glue. If you are just doubling up plywood for a bench top or something I am not sure there would be a huge benefit to something like Weldwood either. What are you building?

View wuddoc's profile

wuddoc

359 posts in 4632 days


#4 posted 07-22-2018 08:03 PM

Here is a website with info on plastic resin glue. I would warn my former students of safety concerns in handling the material. This involved ventilation, respirator and skin contact issues.

https://www.christinedemerchant.com/adhesive-glue-urea-formaldehyde.html

-- Wuddoc

View Neophyte's profile

Neophyte

34 posts in 3271 days


#5 posted 07-22-2018 08:17 PM



They are probably recommending something like DAP Weldwood. Comes in a powder and you mix it when you are ready to use it. Long open time and very still so it is great for bent laminations. Never seen it in a box store though.
Liquid Nails and Dynagrip are construction adhesives, generally polyurethane based. They would certainly work for gluing plywood to plywood, but I don t know why they would be any benefit to them over regular PVA wood glue. If you are just doubling up plywood for a bench top or something I am not sure there would be a huge benefit to something like Weldwood either. What are you building?

- RobHannon

I am building table tops for bistro tables. My question referred to plywood warping and several people suggested using non-water based glues. Here is my earlier post:

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/282226

-- Marc, NY

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3495 posts in 2712 days


#6 posted 07-22-2018 08:37 PM

Wuddoc has given you good advise. It pretty toxic stuff.
I stopped using it because the glue lines are very hard
I think it will work if you can follow all the advice given.
Such as even glue spread flat clamping surface.

-- Aj

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1813 days


#7 posted 07-22-2018 10:10 PM

Unibond 800 is good
Dap Weldwood is Ok

But just to put my 2 cents in, Titebond II is all you need. (Apply it with a roller.)

No matter what you use, it will need to be clamped to a flat surface in order to be flat.

How did you clamp the first one you made that warped?

View Tony_S's profile

Tony_S

1362 posts in 3997 days


#8 posted 07-22-2018 10:41 PM



But just to put my 2 cents in, Titebond II is all you need. (Apply it with a roller.)
- jbay

Another 2 cents.

-- “Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something.” – Plato

View BurlyBob's profile

BurlyBob

8009 posts in 3179 days


#9 posted 07-23-2018 12:24 AM

That Weldwood is amazingly strong glue. Probably as strong as anything out there. They recommend mixing it with cold water, in my experience luke warm is much easier.

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

13520 posts in 3294 days


#10 posted 07-23-2018 01:46 AM

Ask the guys making the recommendation. No second guessing that way.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View Neophyte's profile

Neophyte

34 posts in 3271 days


#11 posted 07-23-2018 03:42 PM



Unibond 800 is good
Dap Weldwood is Ok

But just to put my 2 cents in, Titebond II is all you need. (Apply it with a roller.)

No matter what you use, it will need to be clamped to a flat surface in order to be flat.

How did you clamp the first one you made that warped?

- jbay

There were two pieces roughly 4’ x 2’, one 3/4” thick and the other 1/2”. Used regular wood glue, clamped the margins all around and used screws for the center. Trimmed to size on table saw, got two table tops.

You also gave a very thoughtful answer to my original question in a different forum. In addition to the problems identified so far (unequal plywood thickness, perhaps excessive glue) I want to add that I did not use a flat surface for reference as the glue dried. I had them dry on top of some 2×4 to allow room for the clamps. I also wonder if the pieces need to be smaller when glued as evidently with the 4’ x 2’ pieces there is a large center area that is only “clamped” by screws
Thanks
Marc

-- Marc, NY

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

2776 posts in 1077 days


#12 posted 07-23-2018 04:33 PM

Marc – to reiterate again, I personally feel that when two or more panels are glued
together, and clamps are applied all the way around the edges, it forces any excess glue
to the center of the panels, “possibly” creating a larger wet glue mass that “could”
result in more moisture in the center than the outside edges where the clamps are.
for a trial assembly – put two drywall screws in the center to prevent slippage, put on a flat floor,
and stack a lot of weight evenly on the panels and see how that works for you. (skip the clamps).
this would be for any liquid adhesive or epoxy. not contact cement or construction adhesive.
discussing the adhesive factors over and over is just arguing semantics.
wishing you the best of success in finding what works best for you.

.

.

-- there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks. --

View Neophyte's profile

Neophyte

34 posts in 3271 days


#13 posted 07-23-2018 04:52 PM



Marc – to reiterate again, I personally feel that when two or more panels are glued
together, and clamps are applied all the way around the edges, it forces any excess glue
to the center of the panels, “possibly” creating a larger wet glue mass that “could”
result in more moisture in the center than the outside edges where the clamps are.
for a trial assembly – put two drywall screws in the center to prevent slippage, put on a flat floor,
and stack a lot of weight evenly on the panels and see how that works for you. (skip the clamps).
this would be for any liquid adhesive or epoxy. not contact cement or construction adhesive.
discussing the adhesive factors over and over is just arguing semantics.
wishing you the best of success in finding what works best for you.

.

.

- John Smith


Thanks for your feedback and I appreciate that you have followed these two threads.
I think the point that glue in the center of the boards dries slower is very important
Since your initial recommendation I have been looking for ways to build them that way
I still need to decide on the right materials for this project whether it will be all plywood or a combination MDF + plywood. I understand now to use same thickness material
Marc

-- Marc, NY

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1813 days


#14 posted 07-23-2018 07:02 PM

Your wayyy over thinking this.
Cut them to 2×2 before putting together.
Apply the glue with a roller, Clamp the things together, there is going to be no mass that collects in the middle.
Don’t worry about what speed the glue in the middle dries at, just clamp them and leave them over night.
The only other thing I would do would be to add some screws to the middle area before clamping. The screws will clamp the center and keep the tops from sliding around.
I would clamp 4 or 5 at a time…..

(ON A FLAT SURFACE) lol

That’s all I have to say, I’m out!
Good Luck

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2658 posts in 2903 days


#15 posted 07-23-2018 07:37 PM

Clamping cauls will put even pressure across the surface

View Neophyte's profile

Neophyte

34 posts in 3271 days


#16 posted 07-23-2018 10:19 PM



Your wayyy over thinking this.
Cut them to 2×2 before putting together.
Apply the glue with a roller, Clamp the things together, there is going to be no mass that collects in the middle.
Don t worry about what speed the glue in the middle dries at, just clamp them and leave them over night.
The only other thing I would do would be to add some screws to the middle area before clamping. The screws will clamp the center and keep the tops from sliding around.
I would clamp 4 or 5 at a time…..

(ON A FLAT SURFACE) lol

That s all I have to say, I m out!
Good Luck

- jbay


Glad you say that – I’m going nuts thinking about how to do this.
Before you check out, though, tell me your plywood recommendations, if any.
Thanks so far for your opinions.

-- Marc, NY

View TungOil's profile

TungOil

1383 posts in 1409 days


#17 posted 07-23-2018 10:29 PM

I still think you are making this harder than it needs to be. Just order ApplePly to your finished thickness, cut to size and voila, done!

If you do go the Weldwood route, you can get it from your local Ace hardware or order it through amazon.

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

View Rich's profile

Rich

6147 posts in 1503 days


#18 posted 07-23-2018 11:40 PM

this product contains ZERO formaldehyde – that is where the health concerns
came from. the old two part resorcinol glue that caused many health issues
is not made any longer in the USA .

I called the DAP technical rep last month about the formaldehyde issue and the
guy said that NONE of DAP products contain formaldehyde – at all.
so I know this to be a true and verified fact.

- John Smith

You might want to have another conversation with the DAP rep. This is from the SDS on the DAP web site:

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View TungOil's profile

TungOil

1383 posts in 1409 days


#19 posted 07-23-2018 11:55 PM

This is the product I used last time:

https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Ultra-CAT-PPR-Veneer-Glue.html

Works very similar to Weldwood. I highly recommend the rubber roller as well for spreading the adhesive evenly. I mix this stuff with a drill and mixer blade wearing a respirator and disposable nitrile gloves, it is best to avoid skin contact and definitely do not breathe the powder!

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

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