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Supershop owners

by Dan Krager
posted 07-21-2018 01:08 AM


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267 replies

267 replies so far

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#201 posted 08-03-2019 12:15 PM



Warning: lots of pics

Got the banjo from HokieKen, AWESOME and at a great price. Already knew I d have to “adapt” it, but didn t know how. I wanted to retain the ease of the eccentric that allows the lever up front to lock it down. The first couple pics show what I started with:

!
Super happy!

- GordoB

Very nice modification. GordoB!

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Dan Krager

4416 posts in 2739 days


#202 posted 08-03-2019 02:10 PM

^ what he said! Good job. Nice to be able to do enough metal work to make the tools do what you want!

I did a whole new “adapter” by using a 3/4” pipe cut about 5/8” long. Since I didn’t have welders at the time I drilled and threaded 3/8” all thread into it and inserted with locktite. So I still have the original stuff.

Yes, they are a treat to use after the relatively feeble arm type tool rest holders.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#203 posted 08-03-2019 03:58 PM

You guys are pushing me toward taking a look at a banjo and tool rest mod for the Supershop. I have one of those Ernie Conover lathes that had a DIY bed made of wood that just might fit the bill, but I’ve never though about trying it on the Supershop. I’ll have to dig it out and see if it’s a fit or can be modified to fit.

View merrill77's profile

merrill77

211 posts in 2391 days


#204 posted 08-03-2019 07:24 PM

cyeks – I’ve had both my Fox and Smithy SuperShops partially disassembled. I didn’t have the spanner wrench for my first one – I just used a scrap of wood with bolts protruding from the side with the correct spacing. IIRC, some off-the-shelf bolts had the correct OD for the job. When upright (drill press mode), there does not need to be much torsion on the spring for it to do it’s job, especially if you move the carriage and headstock to the hinged end before transitioning up or down. I only need to torque mine a few degrees to reach the first hole. This means than when I held it to remove the bolts, it didn’t try to bite me. However, you can’t know how much the previous owner torqued it. If I had removed it when in the down position, I expect that I would have found that there was a LOT of torque on it at that point.

-- Turning beautiful wood into scraps...one board at a time --Chris

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cyeks

14 posts in 81 days


#205 posted 08-04-2019 04:53 AM

Thanks merrill77, I did take note of raising it to vertical drill press mode before disassembling. Good to know it can be done with a piece of wood, I was going to drill into some metal bar stock.

Should get it in a week! Looking forward to joining the club.

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#206 posted 08-05-2019 01:37 PM



You guys are pushing me toward taking a look at a banjo and tool rest mod for the Supershop. I have one of those Ernie Conover lathes that had a DIY bed made of wood that just might fit the bill, but I ve never though about trying it on the Supershop. I ll have to dig it out and see if it s a fit or can be modified to fit.

- Ted724


I need to correct this! I don’ have an Ernie Conover lathe, I just have the banjo/tool rest for a Conover lathe. That said, the banjo/toolrest won’t work on a Supershop. First, it’s too tall. This could be fixed by machining away some metal, but that still leaves the second issue—no way to bolt the banjo to the Shopsmith carriage. The base of the Conover banjo has a groove in it (looks like an upside down T-slot) and you lock the banjo in place by a lever that’s under the lathe bed. In essence, you have to T-slots facing one another, one on the banjo, the other on the Supershop carriage. Guess I’ll just keep looking for something appropriate.

View GordoB's profile

GordoB

20 posts in 92 days


#207 posted 08-07-2019 02:25 AM

I’ve finally got everything together and a little time to play. Turned a branch into some cups, and the end of a 2×12 into a plate.

The runout I have is making life difficult. The machine itself has nearly zero. The rod 2 thou, the 1×8 adapter adds 2 thou, and the chuck ads another thou. Total of .005, which really gets magnified on something the size of the plate. I’m looking at it again in a minute to try to find a solution.

-- Making sawdust

View cyeks's profile

cyeks

14 posts in 81 days


#208 posted 08-15-2019 02:55 PM

Hi guys,

After a delay, I got my SuperShop. Pretty much needed to break it down into component parts in order to get it into my basement workshop but it all came apart fine and went back together with no issues.

Thanks for the help on the torsion spring bar. I released the tension in the vertical position, expecting a sudden torque on the bar but nothing happened. Removed the screws and was able to freely rotate the dial. Not much travel on the dial to go from no assist to full-assist.

I got a box full of parts and accessories, can anyone help me identify the three components in the pictures? Not even certain they all go with the SuperShop.

The 6” long black arbor has a 3/4” end that fits in the R8 collet, a couple bushings and a 1/2” threaded section. Initially I thought it might be for a dado stack but there’s no nut on the end and it is 1/2” instead of 5/8”.

The 9/16” diameter shiny bar has a flat section and the imprint of what may be a set screw. It also has a hollow dimple on each end.

The little black knob has a roll pin sticking out one side and it has a flat section cut in the 1/2” narrow end.

Still sorting through everything and trying out the different machine configurations. Looks like I will need to replace the lathe tool rest, I think there was some discussion earlier in this thread so I’ll go back up and see what my options are. Are people using the geared main table lift to attach tool rests or just bolting directly to the T-slots on the carriage?

Lastly, just putting this out there, if anyone is interested in a never-used SuperShop jointer, let me know. I’d also be interested in trading for the SuperShop belt sander.

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 389 days


#209 posted 08-15-2019 03:14 PM

I was following the posts on the banjo tool rests and here is what I am working on. This is a Shopsmith Universal Tool Rest. In original form it was just a schosh too tall. If I remove the top part it is lwer and the tool rest can adjust but I need to drill/tape a hole to be able to lock the height. Seems pretty doable. Then I need a longer screw to be able to touch the tool rest shaft to lock in place. I think this will work stellar.

first 2 pics show overview of setup. 3rd is what tool rest has for adjustment with top part removed. 4th is the top part that was removed. Justthe round plate weighs around 35 lbs so will add some stability- as if the SuperShop needed more weight! LOL

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 389 days


#210 posted 08-15-2019 03:20 PM

@Cyeks
the 6” shaft with 1/2” end is a shaper arbor. Mine has a plastic guard to help keep fingers away from the spinning cutters. The 9/16” shaft I bet is a shaft previous owner used to drive something with a 9/16” bore. The other looks like possibly the drive for the jointer but has a different end with the tapered flat like a Shopsmith part. Does it fit over the bottom PTO shaft on left of headstock? The pin might be to fit in the slot on that lower PTO.
Good to hear you got it reloacted into its new home where you can now learn/play.

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View cyeks's profile

cyeks

14 posts in 81 days


#211 posted 08-15-2019 03:37 PM

Thanks @DantheToolman!

I don’t have any shaper cutters so that’s why the whole thing looks foreign to me. It did come with the clear plastic disc guard and the 1/2” arbor fits right through it. Thanks for clarifying.

The little knob does have the tapered flat, it fits over the lower PTO shaft, but it’s a sloppy fit and I don’t know if it would be any more secure driving in that pin. You’re thinking maybe it’s a coupler for Shopsmith accessories? I would have thought anything going to an accessory needed to have the plastic spring-loaded coupler to prevent damage. Anyway, it will go in the spare parts bin for now.

Thanks again.

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 389 days


#212 posted 08-15-2019 03:37 PM

I went to shop and dug out my shaper arbor and a cutter and took some pictures as well as documentation from the Smithy manual.

If you or anyone else is interested I have some duplicate cutters and I am purging my extra stuff. These seem to be pricy from past sales I have seen. I need to dig them out anyway and keep at least one of each for me then sell the rest. Let me know if interested and we can take this offline. I checked EBay and prices range around $14-15 each. I would sell mine extras for less- especially if multiples are involved.
BTW, the saw arbor can handle 10” & 12” saw blades. I have a spare 12” mounted from my DeWalt slider miter.
If you scan back in this thread I posted some pictures of the drive hubs for the left side of headstock. The jointer is a round one with a pin for the slot in lower shaft- to a Shopsmith style hub drive. The upper has a 10 spline drive hub to Shopsmith style drive hub. Fox machines have an 8 spline upper. I have a 10 with my Smithy but no 8 spline I have found. There is a seller on EBay that prints Shopsmith drive hubs/shafts. I was in discussion with him about printing some and he sent me a bunch but they were too small. I bet we could get him to print some if we worked with him to get them sized right. thnx, Dan

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#213 posted 08-15-2019 03:48 PM


Lastly, just putting this out there, if anyone is interested in a never-used SuperShop jointer, let me know. I d also be interested in trading for the SuperShop belt sander.

- cyeks

Where are you located and what’s your asking price for the jointer? Don’t have a Supershop belt sander, but do have a Shopsmith model which likely is quite similar.

Like Dan, I’d expect that the short item you posted a picture of is the adapter that’s used to drive the jointer from the lower (threaded and slotted) spindle on the rear of the headstock.

View cyeks's profile

cyeks

14 posts in 81 days


#214 posted 08-15-2019 03:58 PM

@Ted724, I’m located in St. Louis. I’ll PM you details.

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 389 days


#215 posted 08-15-2019 04:06 PM

I just sold the Smithy 6” jointer that came with last machine for $325 after I honed and reset blades. I already have a 6” and looking to upgrade to 8”. The Shopsmith belt sander is great and will fit on the Supershop as long as you have the adapter plate to fit the SuperShop ends to the Shopsmith spacing and have the upper drive parts to make it work. If belt sander and jointer are in good working condition, that would not be a bad trade. I repair Shopsmith tools and am branching out into other brands as well- SuperShop is similar so adding that as well.
I have 2 Shopsmith belt sanders and use them constantly. I keep one mounted on a Shopsmith mini-Mark V and disk sander on quill end or I also have a strip sander I can mount.

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#216 posted 08-15-2019 04:07 PM



I was following the posts on the banjo tool rests and here is what I am working on. This is a Shopsmith Universal Tool Rest. In original form it was just a schosh too tall. If I remove the top part it is lwer and the tool rest can adjust but I need to drill/tape a hole to be able to lock the height. Seems pretty doable. Then I need a longer screw to be able to touch the tool rest shaft to lock in place. I think this will work stellar.

first 2 pics show overview of setup. 3rd is what tool rest has for adjustment with top part removed. 4th is the top part that was removed. Justthe round plate weighs around 35 lbs so will add some stability- as if the SuperShop needed more weight! LOL

- DantheToolman


Dan, in post #98 of this thread I show a photo of a toolrest that I use on my standard Shopsmith toolpost that may save you from modifying the universal set-up. I got a three piece set from Penn State Industries. The vertical section of the toolrests is 5/8” diameter, but they include a 3/4” sleeve so that it fits the Shopsmith toolpost. I use mostly the narrow toolrest.

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#217 posted 08-15-2019 04:15 PM

Dan, in post #98 of this thread I show a photo of a toolrest that I use on my standard Shopsmith toolpost that may save you from modifying the universal set-up. I got a three piece set from Penn State Industries. The vertical section of the toolrests is 5/8” diameter, but they include a 3/4” sleeve so that it fits the Shopsmith toolpost. I use mostly the narrow toolrest.

- Ted724


I just looked at the Penn State site, and I’d guess they don’t include the sleeve any more. At least they don’t mention it in the ad. If interested, I’d call them before ordering just to make sure of what’s included. They have some other sleeves in their catalog, but they don’t show a 5/8” to 3/4” sleeve.

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#218 posted 08-15-2019 05:47 PM

Dan, regarding the drive hub you tried to get printed, I was thinking a while back, but never got any further, that I’d make a shaft out of 5/8” drill rod or 5/8” all-thread that would run through the headstock (like the draw bar) and would allow one to attach a Shopsmith hub/coupling to the left end. The right end of the shaft would need to be threaded for bolts to thighten the shaft, while the left end could simply be pinned. You’d need a couple of tapered bushings to center the drill rod/all-thread at either end of the spindle. and I’m thinking these bushings could even be made of wood. Just a thought, as I’m in the same boat as you regarding having a plastic hub with 10 splines for the Smithy, but not one to fit the 8 splines on the Fox.

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4416 posts in 2739 days


#219 posted 08-15-2019 09:27 PM

cyek, the nut on the 1/2” shaft is a 1/2×20 UNF which is a standard nut available in the bins of a farm store or big box store. Get more than one…ypu’ll eventually need it! It also holds any grind stone, polishing wheel, or other accessory with a 1/2” hole.

The short stubby adapter with a pin is a PTO drive adapter of some sort. Because of the tapered flat typical of Shopsmith, I suspect it could be used to mount the 5 spline Shopsmith adapter on the PTO. It’s an extra piece not shipped with the Fox units.

Ted, the PTO shaft of the Supershop (middle shaft between motor and quill shaft) headstock is designed to be the right height for Shopsmith accessories given the use of a mounting adapter. I have a Shopsmith bandsaw mounted on left end using a Shopsmith 4 and 5 spline drive knobs and their plastic drive coupling. Trying to use the quill shaft as a driver would put the accessories at step ladder height. :)

That’s an interesting banjo from Shopsmith. Didn’t know such a thing existed. That tool rest looks to be a tall one, so perhaps a lower one would work better. But we use what we have! Right?

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View SSx3's profile

SSx3

3 posts in 59 days


#220 posted 08-15-2019 09:35 PM

To Cyeks:
the chrome rod with a flat side is the rod for the mortise hold down clamp that mounts in the center of the Fence.

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4416 posts in 2739 days


#221 posted 08-15-2019 09:45 PM

Thank you 55×3. I forgot to answer that question, but you did good. Now, where’s the rest of the hold down?

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#222 posted 08-16-2019 12:11 AM


Ted, the PTO shaft of the Supershop (middle shaft between motor and quill shaft) headstock is designed to be the right height for Shopsmith accessories given the use of a mounting adapter. I have a Shopsmith bandsaw mounted on left end using a Shopsmith 4 and 5 spline drive knobs and their plastic drive coupling. Trying to use the quill shaft as a driver would put the accessories at step ladder height. :)

DanK

- Dan Krager

Hi DanK,

The only add-on tool I have for the Supershop is the Smithy bandsaw and It’s driven by the quill shaft. That black plastic drive hub that fits over the splines on the back end of the quill shaft (as shown in message #112,photos 4,5,and 6) connects to the bandsaw with one of those white plastic coupler kits. The only difference in the white plastic coupler kits from Shopsmith and Smithy is that the Shopsmith logo doesn’t appear on the Smithy version.

On the Shopsmith, all of their add-on tools (Shopsmith calls them Special Purpose Tools) except the jointer run off the upper spindle on the back end of the Shopsmith headstock. The jointer runs off a second spindle located on the back of the headstock, similar to the way the Smithy jointer mounts on the Supershop.

On my Smithy bandsaw mounted on the Supershop the table is 46” off the floor. With a Shopsmith bandsaw mounted on a Shopsmith, the table is at about the same level. On a Chinese-built 14” Delta bandsaw, the table is about 42” off the floor.

View SSx3's profile

SSx3

3 posts in 59 days


#223 posted 08-16-2019 09:50 AM

I have been in conversation with the owners Smithy, also known as DMT.

Smithy has a limited supply of parts for the Smithy SuperShop that they will make available for users to purchase with the following conditions: 1) as is, no returns 2) no support, technical or otherwise 3) no inventory price list available 4) customer must provide part number and description

They will check availability and quote a price. The prices are reasonable. They can provide a digital copy of the manual if you need one. With the introduction of the Smithy Ironwood and larger table, some of the part numbers changed and are not reflected in the manual. Their database can cross-reference.

The DC motor and controller is the same as their Granite machine and also available and supported. However, you will have to drill/machine the spindle end to accept the SuperShop Mot0r Sheave.

Call the main number and ask for Ellie.She is great to work with.
800-476-4849

You know much more about the SuperShop than Smithy(DMT) no does, so be patient and detailed with what you are looking for. The majority of Fox and Smithy SuperShop parts are not interchangeable and there were several variants to the Smithy Supershop during its run. Parts should be interchangeable with the Central Machinery 10 in 1 Wood and Metal Working Machine.

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 389 days


#224 posted 08-16-2019 12:11 PM



To Cyeks:
the chrome rod with a flat side is the rod for the mortise hold down clamp that mounts in the center of the Fence.

- SSx3


SSx3 (George) asked me to post this picture for clarity of the mortiser setup showing the 9?16” round bar with the flat.

@DanK- The tool rest was too high but taking off the top it is now lower and only modification is to drill/tap a hole to be able to lock the rest vertically. I will also look for a shorter one because on short turnings the length of the rest holder and touch the headstock or tailstock. I will check out Ted724’s post showing how he modified a Shopsmith tool rest – I do have a few spares here from buying/selling them. ;+D

I also can run the tools on the quill end of the SuperShop on my Fox because it has reverse. Once I get my 2nd Fox here from IL I will add that feature. I suspect it is just a wire into the motor voltage to get motor to run in reverse- just feed DC voltage in opposite polarity. There is a switch on the rear of my Fox that does the reverse. Putting a tool on quill end without reverse would have tool running in wrong direction (except for Shopsmith jigsaw and belt sander- have to put drive hub on aux shaft to get belt spinning down).

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#225 posted 08-16-2019 12:21 PM


I also can run the tools on the quill end of the SuperShop on my Fox because it has reverse. Once I get my 2nd Fox here from IL I will add that feature. I suspect it is just a wire into the motor voltage to get motor to run in reverse- just feed DC voltage in opposite polarity. There is a switch on the rear of my Fox that does the reverse. Putting a tool on quill end without reverse would have tool running in wrong direction (except for Shopsmith jigsaw and belt sander- have to put drive hub on aux shaft to get belt spinning down).

- DantheToolman


Here’s a schematic of adding the reversing switch:

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#226 posted 08-16-2019 12:31 PM

That last schematic wasn’t of much use, so here’s another go at it:

View DS's profile

DS

3291 posts in 2925 days


#227 posted 08-16-2019 01:33 PM

I think I’m in the wrong place…
Do you know where the “Super Shop-Owners” forum is?

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

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DantheToolman

35 posts in 389 days


#228 posted 08-16-2019 04:19 PM



I think I m in the wrong place…
Do you know where the “Super Shop-Owners” forum is?

- DS


This is one and Yahoo has another created that was dormant but SSx3 took over.
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/SuperShopTool/info

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4416 posts in 2739 days


#229 posted 08-16-2019 11:26 PM

A word of caution about reversing Fox Supershops main motor. Fox did not have the reversing feature originally for reasons I do not know. Adding it is possible, but it introduces the possibility of catastrophic events. All the auxiliary spindles are right hand threads without notched washers, so an inadvertent reverse can unscrew the attachment. Since the table cannot be positioned so that the shaper spindle comes from underneath, there is very little reason to introduce reversing the main motor. The exception is to run attachments as described above.

DS, if you are a Supershop owner or just have questions we will be happy to share what we know.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View merrill77's profile

merrill77

211 posts in 2391 days


#230 posted 08-16-2019 11:50 PM

Reversing the lathe is useful when sanding… or so I’ve been told, anyway. Both because it is more effective to sand the fibers the other direction and because it throws the dust the other direction.

-- Turning beautiful wood into scraps...one board at a time --Chris

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DS

3291 posts in 2925 days


#231 posted 08-17-2019 01:52 AM

Sorry, it was my pathetic attempt at humor.

Super, shop owner.

This is how my brain has been mis-reading this thread’s header every time it pops up to the top of the pulse list.

Way back in the early days, I nearly bought a Shop Smith Mark V, which appears to be a very similar machine to your supershop.
(Maybe it is heresy to say that – my ignorance is showing a little bit)

I opted for the separate machines and have not parked a vehicle in my garage since.

After 35 plus years, I’m not sure I would change it.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

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Dan Krager

4416 posts in 2739 days


#232 posted 08-17-2019 02:05 PM

DS, the multifunction machines are great for hobby use where space is more constrained than time. I started my woodworking business and thought it was a great advance to have a Shopsmith machine with all its capability. It gradually retreated to just lathe work as stand-a-lone equipment became practical. But I jumped at replacing the Shopsmith with the much more robust Supershop, which included the possibility of metal work.

Coming from a farm background where all the machinery had to be stored indoors, I allowed myself only one bay of the two car garage only because we had only one car. Since then the shop had to be in a separate building. Some of that was motivated by the “going to work” mentality, but also because I didn’t want to lose the house if the shop caught fire. Then there’s the dust problem that is not friendly to housekeepers…

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#233 posted 08-17-2019 05:08 PM

Mounting Shopsmith Tools on the Supershop

This morning I though I’d follow through on making an adapter to mount and drive Shopsmith (or Smithy, TotalShop, etc.) tools on the Supershop.

Using 5/8” all-thread. some nuts, washers, a Shopsmith poweer coupler, and some lathe-turned bushings I was able to run the Supershop bandsaw without the Smithy black plastic drive hub that fits over the splines at the back end of the spindle. I haven’t cut the all-thread to length yet. I used all-thread because I had it on hand. But one could use drill rod and thread one or both ends.

To mount a Shopsmith SPT (Special Purpose Tool—bandsaw, belt sander, etc.), you can adapt an items sold by Shopsmith (the SPT Mounting Base, part number 505655) or you can made something out of wood. A wooden mount would need to be drilled and tapped for set screws to “clamp” the vertical tubes on the tools. Shopsmith wants about $50 for their mounting base.

I’ve not actually mounted a Shopsmith SPT on the Supershop as I have Shopsmith equipment for that, and I don’t want to monkey with the length of those mounting tubes on the Shopsmith tools as it may require that they would need to be shortened a bit in order to align their spindles with the Supershop spindle. At least that would likely be the case if a tool were mounted as shown in my photos. It also would be possible to attach a mounting base located off the end of the Supershop and then simply make a longer all-thread rod to span the greater distance between the tool and the Supershop headstock..

Here are some photos of the set-up, along with a couple of mock-ups of how one could mount a Shopsmith tool on the Supershop.

.

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Dan Krager

4416 posts in 2739 days


#234 posted 08-17-2019 05:42 PM

Ted, that’s a pretty clear explanation. I say that because even I could understand it! It clarifies the need to use the quill spindle for driving accessories. The Fox adapter I have drops over the left end and holds the Shopsmith equipment low enough that it is driven with the PTO (middle) shaft. There’s a picture of it somewhere on this thread.

Question about your first picture. It looks like the bandsaw is standing in the Supershop post holes but still uses the quill for power source. Was that a “standard” setup for Smithy and other replicas?

Tony Fox was in the process of developing and beginning to market a remarkable three wheel band saw. It used the same style table as the table saw setup. I would dearly love to have one. I think only about 12 prototypes were made. Don’t know for sure. But it was set up to use the PTO shaft.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#235 posted 08-17-2019 06:15 PM

Question about your first picture. It looks like the bandsaw is standing in the Supershop post holes but still uses the quill for power source. Was that a “standard” setup for Smithy and other replicas?

DanK

- Dan Krager

Hi DanK,

That photo was of the Smithy bandsaw that came with the Smithy Supershop, and that is the standard set-up for running it. The bandsaw is a partial clone of the Shopsmith bandsaw and I believe the Smithy was derived from the bandsaw sold by TotalShop and others that sold clones of Shopsmith Mark V back in the ‘80s. I believe Shopsmith still had some active patents on the bandsaw so they couldn’t be copied exactly.

Externally the Smithy and Shopsmith bandsaws look similar, but internally they differ. The Smithy is like a traditional bandsaw where the upper wheel is tilted to track the blade. On the Shopsmith, the upper wheel is tilted at a preset angle and bearings are used to keep the blade from coming off the back of the wheel. The width and height capacities are slightly different as well.

I’m guessing that the Smithy belt sander and jointer were clones of the Shopsmith stuff and copies of what TotalShop had sold, except the Smithy jointer is 6” while the Shopsmith is only 4”.

View merrill77's profile

merrill77

211 posts in 2391 days


#236 posted 08-17-2019 06:34 PM


Question about your first picture. It looks like the bandsaw is standing in the Supershop post holes but still uses the quill for power source. Was that a “standard” setup for Smithy and other replicas?

Yes…at least, that is the way my SuperShop-branded bandsaw hooks up.

-- Turning beautiful wood into scraps...one board at a time --Chris

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Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#237 posted 08-17-2019 07:21 PM

Update on Mounting Shopsmith Tools on the Supershop

After DanK mentioned how Fox handled mounting another tool on the Fox Supershop, I took a Shopsmith bandsaw and tried mounting it on one of those mounting methods I mentioned earlier. It doesn’t work! The Shopsmith bandsaw spindle was about 4” above the Supershop’s spindle and there isn’t any room to lower the bandsaw further.

So, the only option would be to build a mount that is located off the left end of the Supershop so that the two spindles can be brought into alignment. Designing something that will work and have sufficient strength will have to wait for another day.

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 389 days


#238 posted 08-19-2019 02:10 PM

Here are pictures of the correct way to mount accessory tools on the Supershop. One can be easily fabbed but flat stock and correctly sized tubes. The 1 & 2 pictures are from a jointer so Shopsmith mount tubes are short because it runs off bottom spindle. The bandsaw in picture 3 those tubes are longer to allow power from upper spindle.
@Ted724- I like what you came up with for upper drive. The threaded rod should work well and the nuts hold it together. I was mentally working on something for this and your wheel look good enough not to need to reinvent another!

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

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Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#239 posted 08-19-2019 11:16 PM



@Ted724- I like what you came up with for upper drive. The threaded rod should work well and the nuts hold it together. I was mentally working on something for this and your wheel look good enough not to need to reinvent another!

- DantheToolman

The only thing I can add about using the all-thread is that I’d grind a flat (or a Shopsmith style tapered flat) so that the set screw that holds the Shopsmith drive hub in place doesn’t smash the threads when attaching and removing the hub. Without the flat, it makes getting the nuts off the all thread a bit difficult. It’s much easier to remove and insert the whole assembly from the right side of the headstock.

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merrill77

211 posts in 2391 days


#240 posted 08-22-2019 02:05 PM

There is a “Smithy SuperShop 6” Jointer for ShopSmith/Super Shop/Total Shop woodworking” on eBay. Starting bid is $225. As much as mine weighs, shipping will not be cheap. But if you’re looking…

-- Turning beautiful wood into scraps...one board at a time --Chris

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cyeks

14 posts in 81 days


#241 posted 08-22-2019 02:52 PM

If any Lumberjocks members are interested in the jointer, PM me. I’ll make you a heck of a deal. Catch is, it’s local pick-up only. I’m not keen to ship it because of the aforementioned weight. It’s over 80lbs and that’s before any kind of shipping container.

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DantheToolman

35 posts in 389 days


#242 posted 08-22-2019 03:09 PM

Also a complete Smithy with all 3 major attachment tools and some metal working stuff. He is way too high at $2250 but looks like nice condition if he could be made to “see the light of reality”! It is NE of Eau Claire WI. It is a gray Smithy and no carriage motor.

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

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DantheToolman

35 posts in 389 days


#243 posted 09-17-2019 01:56 PM

+I am making a jig to be able to mount the Shopsmith Ringmaster on the SuperShops. Basically I cut short Shopsmith tubes and made end plates that will hold them and cutouts that fit tightly over the SuperShop bars.
This should also give me more room for larger rings. In theory up to the 17” capacity of the SuperShop. But the lower mount for the Ringmaster will cut it back to what looks like 14”. This would be great for glued up flat boards for segments bowls- I can make the blanks larger than the standard 1X12X12 the Ringmaster was designed for.

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

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DantheToolman

35 posts in 389 days


#244 posted 09-19-2019 12:15 PM

I was able to “play” with the new modification. I did get a rude reminder to CHECK WHICH BELT RANGE IS ACTIVE> Max speed for Ringmaster is 900 and I thought I was running low range but belt was on middle pulleys so actual speed was about 3X that! I did have shields in place and was protected by a shop apron, but it just is a good reminder that anything can go wrong even if one has been playing with wood a long time. The outer ring EXPLODED once the cutters got almost through. There are still a couple small pieces I have not found yet. But then it worked as it should and the rings are ready for glue-up.

When I get time, I plan to glue up a larger board and cut and re-glue to experiment with segmented bowl turning. I have some minor tweaking but the jig worked great.

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#245 posted 09-19-2019 04:42 PM



I was able to “play” with the new modification. I did get a rude reminder to CHECK WHICH BELT RANGE IS ACTIVE> Max speed for Ringmaster is 900 and I thought I was running low range but belt was on middle pulleys so actual speed was about 3X that! I did have shields in place and was protected by a shop apron, but it just is a good reminder that anything can go wrong even if one has been playing with wood a long time. The outer ring EXPLODED once the cutters got almost through. There are still a couple small pieces I have not found yet. But then it worked as it should and the rings are ready for glue-up.

!
When I get time, I plan to glue up a larger board and cut and re-glue to experiment with segmented bowl turning. I have some minor tweaking but the jig worked great.

- DantheToolman


Hi Dan,

Thanks for the reminder about the need for checking speed/belt position before operating the Supershop.

Regarding the Ringmaster, what are you using to keep the Ringmaster is place on the Supershop? In the earlier post, you used clamps, but I can’t see exactly how it’s attached to the Supershop in these later photos. I only ask because I too have a Ringmaster, but I’ve never used it after getting it at an auction some years ago. Keep us informed on how you’re getting on with it. May have to dust the thing off and give it a try.

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Dan Krager

4416 posts in 2739 days


#246 posted 09-19-2019 04:44 PM

Nicely done ring master setup, DTT.

Glad you weren’t hurt. I have many variable speed machines and I make it a practice to turn the adjustment to minimum when I leave the machine. Then if it starts up in the wrong range (haven’t done that for a very long time now) I’ll know before anything bad can happen.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 389 days


#247 posted 09-20-2019 02:52 PM


Nicely done ring master setup, DTT.

Glad you weren t hurt. I have many variable speed machines and I make it a practice to turn the adjustment to minimum when I leave the machine. Then if it starts up in the wrong range (haven t done that for a very long time now) I ll know before anything bad can happen.

DanK

Ya I always do that as well before turning off. The problem with this is I had never used the Fox SuperShop in any range except low- SO I THOUGHT!!! Reviewing back in time I set to mid-range for some lathe work on some spiral blanks I was preparing and forgot I had it on mid-range. I was using the safety shield and an heavy apron but I also now have a mark on the plastic shield of the Ringmaster to remind me of the “excitement” of watching the wood explode and not getting hurt. I also will be using a face shield for lathe turning. A guy I rebuilt his Shopsmith was turning and some wood came off and got his eye. I have not heard if it is permanent but he was gaining some site back in that eye. My theory is I try to set it up to AVOID accidents in the first place. I am glueing the pieces back together to hang in a visible spot in my shop as a reminder.

- Dan Krager


-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 389 days


#248 posted 09-20-2019 04:28 PM

Hi Dan,

Thanks for the reminder about the need for checking speed/belt position before operating the Supershop.

Regarding the Ringmaster, what are you using to keep the Ringmaster is place on the Supershop? In the earlier post, you used clamps, but I can t see exactly how it s attached to the Supershop in these later photos. I only ask because I too have a Ringmaster, but I ve never used it after getting it at an auction some years ago. Keep us informed on how you re getting on with it. May have to dust the thing off and give it a try.

- Ted724

Ted you do really need to get that thing out! The possibilities are endless. I will take some pictures how I mounted it and try to get enough detail to show how it is mounted. But in a nutshell, I have a surplus of Shopsmith way tubes so cut some lengths for the Ringmaster to mount. Then I mounted them between jig sides using threaded rob and got them spaced just right and tightened the nuts- I used locking nuts with nylon inserts. Then I cut slots for the jig to mount to the bars of the SuperShop. To get spacing good and tight, I took off end tie bar and stuck the jig pieces on end and used that for a pattern. I used a large fostner bit to do the basic holes just lightly undersized then cut the top part on bandsaw and nibbled some of the excess using the balde. Then I have an oscillating spindle sander to get a nice snug fit. Even with the bars on the jig, it will hold itself on the Supershop bars while I clamp. Once I got a nice fit, I took top plates across the sides of the jig to lock it onto the SuperShop bars. It is a nice fit and it does not move- at all. I used 2” screws and predrilled. the jig is poplar so a nice easy wood to work but durable and hard enough to last. Eventually I will probably paint it to make it “look pretty”- or not.
The bottom plate for the Ringmaster was used to fasten the Ringmaster to the jig. the rounded bottom plates rested on the Shopsmith bars perfectly and the edges of the bottom plate fit into the grooves of the rack on the SuperShop- make sure not to cross thread the long screw (5/16” head) when starting because the larger size of SuperShop tubes make the plate slightly cocked from parallel with bottom of Ringmaster.

One problem was to reach further in, I had to move the Ringmaster in as well to be able to cut rings far enough in for size bowl I wanted. I rested the curve of bottom seat on SuperShop bar and used a C clamp since there was no danger having it secured in that area and changing the cutting angle slightly made no difference to the cutters. Then I was able to cut as far as it would allow. I am considering longer bars the cutter carriage rides on and longer indexing plate. Then I can clamp as in beginning and have entire range.

Next experiment will be glue up some different colored strips of wood and possibly cut/re-glue them into a pattern- or a pie pattern- and cut rings. Then make a design during glue up. Segmented bowls are what these are called. Also can glue rings inverted to go in not out for a different shape such as a vase (snooty people pronounce this vaaaaaaaase Darlink)

Here are some pictures. let me know if any other questions.

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2160 days


#249 posted 09-20-2019 08:35 PM


Ted you do really need to get that thing out! The possibilities are endless. I will take some pictures how I mounted it and try to get enough detail to show how it is mounted. But in a nutshell, I have a surplus of Shopsmith way tubes so cut some lengths for the Ringmaster to mount. Then I mounted them between jig sides using threaded rob and got them spaced just right and tightened the nuts- I used locking nuts with nylon inserts. Then I cut slots for the jig to mount to the bars of the SuperShop. To get spacing good and tight, I took off end tie bar and stuck the jig pieces on end and used that for a pattern. I used a large fostner bit to do the basic holes just lightly undersized then cut the top part on bandsaw and nibbled some of the excess using the balde. Then I have an oscillating spindle sander to get a nice snug fit. Even with the bars on the jig, it will hold itself on the Supershop bars while I clamp. Once I got a nice fit, I took top plates across the sides of the jig to lock it onto the SuperShop bars. It is a nice fit and it does not move- at all. I used 2” screws and predrilled. the jig is poplar so a nice easy wood to work but durable and hard enough to last. Eventually I will probably paint it to make it “look pretty”- or not.
The bottom plate for the Ringmaster was used to fasten the Ringmaster to the jig. the rounded bottom plates rested on the Shopsmith bars perfectly and the edges of the bottom plate fit into the grooves of the rack on the SuperShop- make sure not to cross thread the long screw (5/16” head) when starting because the larger size of SuperShop tubes make the plate slightly cocked from parallel with bottom of Ringmaster.

One problem was to reach further in, I had to move the Ringmaster in as well to be able to cut rings far enough in for size bowl I wanted. I rested the curve of bottom seat on SuperShop bar and used a C clamp since there was no danger having it secured in that area and changing the cutting angle slightly made no difference to the cutters. Then I was able to cut as far as it would allow. I am considering longer bars the cutter carriage rides on and longer indexing plate. Then I can clamp as in beginning and have entire range.

Next experiment will be glue up some different colored strips of wood and possibly cut/re-glue them into a pattern- or a pie pattern- and cut rings. Then make a design during glue up. Segmented bowls are what these are called. Also can glue rings inverted to go in not out for a different shape such as a vase (snooty people pronounce this vaaaaaaaase Darlink)

Here are some pictures. let me know if any other questions.

!- DantheToolman

Hi Dan,

Thanks for the very detailed explanation regarding your setup of the Ringmaster. The description and photos should give me enough to copy your excellent jig. I have a couple of extra Shopsmith tubes, as well as some short sections left over from making a “Shorty” a while back that I likely can use for something similar.

Regarding your interest in segmented turnings, I came across an interesting web site on the subject by a guy named Jerry Bennett about a month ago —http://www.segeasy.com/index.html . There are some video tutorials and downloads on the subject. There also are some products for sale to help in making the segments.

View cyeks's profile

cyeks

14 posts in 81 days


#250 posted 09-30-2019 03:08 PM

I’ve gotten a lot of great info from this thread, thanks all for contributing. Here’s a couple small things I’ve done on my SuperShop.

I added a big on/off paddle switch and just Gooped it to the front of the machine. I looked around for a better place to integrate the switch but this was just the easiest and most accessible in both horizontal and vertical use.

I found the key system to be a bit fiddly and the prior owner already replaced the toggle switch once after a failure. I spliced into the main power cord before it feeds to the built-in toggle switch. Wire enters the powerhead thru the hole pre-drilled presumably for the auto-feed carriage.

While I had the Amazing Goop out, I added a magnet to hold the drill chuck key.

Lastly, I built the lathe banjo referenced in an earlier video. I made it out of hard maple and realized that because of the multiple T-tracks in the carriage, it doesn’t really have to support a lot of load out on the arm since the base is supported by the carriage top most of the time.

I’m just doing spindle turnings for now so I don’t need a lot of clearance/capacity from this setup yet. The big wooden knob can be replaced with a simple nut and the arm could be thinned down for larger diameter pieces. For now it’s convenient to just loosen/tighten the knob without tools. Still need a socket wrench to lock down the tool rest securely.

I made the parts beefier than they probably need to be but it definitely feels stable. I don’t have welding capability so I bought the tool rest set from Peachtree for $30.

I made an elongated nut to prevent binding in the T-track when sliding the banjo in the track.

That’s all I have for now, still really enjoying using the SuperShop.

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