LumberJocks

All Replies on Supershop owners

  • Advertise with us
View Dan Krager's profile

Supershop owners

by Dan Krager
posted 07-21-2018 01:08 AM


« prev 1 2 3 4 5 6 next »
267 replies

267 replies so far

View merrill77's profile

merrill77

211 posts in 2400 days


#101 posted 05-01-2019 07:16 PM

Well, I still haven’t been able to get the left-hand quill-extension handwheel removed from my SuperShop. It is a 15/16” nut with only 1 7/32” clearance around it. The thin-wall socket that I have is nearly 1 17/64” in diameter – making it nearly a full 1/16” too wide. The wall of the socket is only 3/32” thick at the corners.

Other than turning the socket down on a lathe (which seems unlikely, given the composition), I don’t now what else I can try. Any ideas how to get this off?

-- Turning beautiful wood into scraps...one board at a time --Chris

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2169 days


#102 posted 05-01-2019 07:43 PM



Well, I still haven t been able to get the left-hand quill-extension handwheel removed from my SuperShop. It is a 15/16” nut with only 1 7/32” clearance around it. The thin-wall socket that I have is nearly 1 17/64” in diameter – making it nearly a full 1/16” too wide. The wall of the socket is only 3/32” thick at the corners.

Other than turning the socket down on a lathe (which seems unlikely, given the composition), I don t now what else I can try. Any ideas how to get this off?

- merrill77


Perhaps you could make a plumber’s socket work. I know there’s a double ended one that is 29/32” and 31/32” on the two ends and they have a thin wall.

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2169 days


#103 posted 05-01-2019 08:04 PM


Well, I still haven t been able to get the left-hand quill-extension handwheel removed from my SuperShop. It is a 15/16” nut with only 1 7/32” clearance around it. The thin-wall socket that I have is nearly 1 17/64” in diameter – making it nearly a full 1/16” too wide. The wall of the socket is only 3/32” thick at the corners.

Other than turning the socket down on a lathe (which seems unlikely, given the composition), I don t now what else I can try. Any ideas how to get this off?

- merrill77

Perhaps you could make a plumber s socket work. I know there s a double ended one that is 29/32” and 31/32” on the two ends and they have a thin wall.

- Ted724


Don’t both checking that plumbing socket. I found mine and doesn’t fit. The 29/32” end fits inside the hole in the handwheel, but doesn’t fit over the nut. The other end is too large to fit in the hole.

If you had the 29/32” you might be able to open it up with a file and dremel, but it’d probably be easier to grind a regular socket to fit.

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4421 posts in 2748 days


#104 posted 05-02-2019 01:54 AM

I had a Craftsman socket set and it fit with no trouble. Not a special thin wall either. I have a Fox Supershop, though.

The ring is aluminum and rather soft so a hole saw will easily cut it. Take an appropriately sized saw and cut a hole in a 2×4. Then center and clamp that over the ring as a guide. Then you can enlarge the hole easily (gently) to fit the socket.

A small hammer and a cold chisel might back it out easily, too.

A grinder will thin a socket with little effort.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View merrill77's profile

merrill77

211 posts in 2400 days


#105 posted 05-03-2019 02:49 PM

@Dan – yours must be different…there is no socket that is going to fit into this. Note that on the right side, the shaft and nut are smaller – no problem with a socket getting in on that side.

@Ted – I picked up that plumbing wrench and I’m going to try to modify it to fit.

-- Turning beautiful wood into scraps...one board at a time --Chris

View merrill77's profile

merrill77

211 posts in 2400 days


#106 posted 05-04-2019 11:09 PM

@Ted – The plumbing wrench was easily modified and worked great. I cut relief splits at the corners and chamfered the inside edges. With a few light taps from a hammer, it slid right over the nut. Thanks for the idea – I’d never seen those before.

-- Turning beautiful wood into scraps...one board at a time --Chris

View merrill77's profile

merrill77

211 posts in 2400 days


#107 posted 05-04-2019 11:25 PM

Today I set out to determine why the quill lock and depth gauge wheels didn’t work as I expected.

I started with the depth gauge wheel (right side). I noticed that there is zero clearance between the wheel and the powerhead housing, and so the wheel rubs against the housing…lots of resistance, even though that surface was greased.

After taking it apart and grokking the intended design, I determined that a washer would pull that wheel away from the housing and still leave enough clearance for the handwheel to be installed tightly and the depth adjustment lock to function as expected.

Next, I examined the quill lock (left side). When I removed the handwheel nut (see previous post), I found that someone had used teflon tape to secure the nut, but had not fully tightened the nut down. When I tightened it properly, it jammed the quill lock wheel. I could see that there was a shoulder on the shaft that the handwheel should have tightened against…but it could not because the shaft was not long enough (or the quill lock wheel was too wide). Grinding down the quill lock wheel was easy – just took about 1/8” off the inner flange of the wheel.

Now, the shoulder for the quill travel handwheel stands proud of the quill lock wheel, allowing the handwheel to be tightened fully and the quill lock wheel still works.

AFAICT, these two functions never worked correctly from the factory (or else somebody took it apart and screwed it up somehow). But now I think they are both working as intended.

-- Turning beautiful wood into scraps...one board at a time --Chris

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4421 posts in 2748 days


#108 posted 05-05-2019 07:33 PM

Good recovery, merrill77! And Ted had a neat idea. I’ll forget where it came from but I’ll remember the idea for future!

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 398 days


#109 posted 05-08-2019 03:04 PM

SO I now have a Fox and a Smithy Supershop! I call them “The Brothers”. I am finding out the subtle (and not-so-subtle) differences. !

I plan to use one primarily for metal (so need some metal working chuck & tools), and other primarily for wood, but can do both on either.
I have a standalone Shopsmith drill press and the Sammy Sosa lathe I plan to decommission and sell.

One question I still have for Fox SuperShop- it has 10 sline upper drive PTO and Smithy has 8 spline. I have PTO drive hub for Smithy but looking for 10 spline for Fox. Anyone know where one might be hiding or who might be able to make/print one?

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4421 posts in 2748 days


#110 posted 05-08-2019 04:41 PM

Here is a picture of my setup using a Shopsmith PTO connector on Shopsmith drivers, one end is four spline and the other 5. My 10 spline Fox connector hardened and shattered after a few years, so I never pursued getting another. I drilled a piece of 1” rod and threaded the ID to match the FOX PTO and turned a stub (5/8” I think) to match the Shopsmith driver hub. It is a good idea to drill and insert the cross pin because the threads are RH and will spin the connector loose otherwise. Note that I have an adapter bracket to hold the bandsaw.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View JethrowClampett's profile

JethrowClampett

24 posts in 256 days


#111 posted 05-08-2019 04:44 PM


- DantheToolman

Dan, I see you have the band saw is hooked up to the Shop Fox main drive. I have the Super Shop, Always thought the auxiliary power drive in the rear is where one is to hook up the add on options ? Do you use the auxiliary power drive on the Super Shop ? If so, do you have a picture of the coupler (metal) that fits on the auxiliary drive ? I’m having problems figuring this issue out.

-- Jethrow

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 398 days


#112 posted 05-08-2019 08:13 PM


- DantheToolman

Dan, I see you have the band saw is hooked up to the Shop Fox main drive. I have the Super Shop, Always thought the auxiliary power drive in the rear is where one is to hook up the add on options ? Do you use the auxiliary power drive on the Super Shop ? If so, do you have a picture of the coupler (metal) that fits on the auxiliary drive ? I m having problems figuring this issue out.

- JethrowClampett

My Shop Fox has reverse so I can run tools off the quill by running it in reverse so direction is correct. I have a metal PTO hub for lower PTO on other end that will work for a jointer. I also have a plastic hub with 8 splines for Smithy upper left PTO to drive just about any other Shopsmith like accessory to left of headstock like Shopsmith does. The jigsaw & belt sander can be run off quill end in normal rotation- belt sander needs drive hub on aux spindle to keep direction correct.
Here are pics of the drive hubs I have.


The first 2 pics are the lower drive for jointer. The next 2 are 8 spline upper drive hub for Smithy. The last is the 8 spline hub next to the 10 spline Fox upper spindle. I am looking for a 10 spline and will figure out a way to make or have one made. The 8 spline came with the Smithy I just bought.
Let me know if you have more questions or want more pictures.

I repair Shopsmiths for over 17 years now and think I can add both SuperShop repair to my portfolio as well. I also do other brands and am looking at becoming a Jet/Powermatic ASC (Authorized Service Center) here in TN south of Knoxville.

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View JethrowClampett's profile

JethrowClampett

24 posts in 256 days


#113 posted 05-08-2019 09:15 PM

Dan the Tool Man – thank you very much, I have that fitting that goes over the take-out. What I found odd was the take-out has a split down the middle and is threaded. So I put the cotter pin in the fitting and slid it on the take out, the pin fits between the split on the take-out. Not a great fit, it just rests there. I don’t know if that makes cense ? Or am I missing a component ? It just seems like a loose fit.

-- Jethrow

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4421 posts in 2748 days


#114 posted 05-08-2019 10:44 PM

The pin doesn’t have to be a tight fit. It simply keeps the PTO and the driver knob from coming apart unexpectedly. I’ve never seen the upper spindle used to drive accessories like band saw etc. I can see why you want the splined drive now. That’s a pretty special adapter.

I don’t know when Supershops started being shipped with reverse capabilities, but it wasn’t early on. It had to be near the end of Tony Fox’s productions. I remember him being very cautious about it because he was afraid a user would fail to check everything, especially the shaper setup. Reverse could easily spin the cutter off unless a special shaper cutter holder was used.

There were about a dozen 3 wheel bandsaw prototypes that I was aware of and would dearly love to get my hands on one. They had the same table as the saw so the fence and miter gauges would work. There was an enormous open span, maybe 24” or more, and about a 10” resaw capacity. He wasn’t ready to sell them when I had the money, so I lost out.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 398 days


#115 posted 05-09-2019 03:13 AM



Dan the Tool Man – thank you very much, I have that fitting that goes over the take-out. What I found odd was the take-out has a split down the middle and is threaded. So I put the cotter pin in the fitting and slid it on the take out, the pin fits between the split on the take-out. Not a great fit, it just rests there. I don t know if that makes cense ? Or am I missing a component ? It just seems like a loose fit.

- JethrowClampett


Jethrow, Can you post pictures of the fitting with the cotter pin and threads? I would like to see what it looks like as it might give me an idea how to make something to fit the 10 spline Fox upper spindle.
Dan K- Yes Shopsmith uses that upper adapter to drive most of the accessories. I have cut Shopsmiths in half to run several accessories. I call them Mini Mark Vs- I run 2 in my shop. One has bandsaw & jigsaw and is saw station. Other has belt sander and disk or strip sander and is sanding station. They are extremely handy. I have a stand alone drill press made as a mini with 1 foot short base bars but am going to decommission it now I have a much more effective drill press (2 actually!). WHat I want the 2nd bandsaw for is cutting etal. The SuperShops can go slow enough I can put a metal cutting blade in and use that to fabricate metal items. I already have a small but very effective horizontal bandsaw and this would expand my abilities to fabricate metal things and easier (and safer) to cut many things on a horizontal table.

BTW DanK- I was going to stop by on my way back home but my #2 daughter has had a very difficult pregnancy and was put into the hospital yet again so I bi-passed the visit this time. The good news is my 2nd grandbaby and first grand daughter was born yesterday morning a month early but is now out safe and baby is doing great and mother is getting better. I will plan a stop on a future trip. We are in IL 2-3 times/year usually.

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4421 posts in 2748 days


#116 posted 05-09-2019 11:14 AM

Congratulations, Dan. It’s good to keep priorities straight! Glad all is well with mom and grandbaby.

We don’t travel much, so it should be easy to find us home on another trip. We’ll look forward to it.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 398 days


#117 posted 05-10-2019 06:59 PM



Here is a picture of my setup using a Shopsmith PTO connector on Shopsmith drivers, one end is four spline and the other 5. My 10 spline Fox connector hardened and shattered after a few years, so I never pursued getting another. I drilled a piece of 1” rod and threaded the ID to match the FOX PTO and turned a stub (5/8” I think) to match the Shopsmith driver hub. It is a good idea to drill and insert the cross pin because the threads are RH and will spin the connector loose otherwise. Note that I have an adapter bracket to hold the bandsaw.

DanK I would like to see more pics of how you did this. It sounds like a good way to fix the no parts available for 10 spline but also if/when the 8 spline adapter breaks. Can you post some more pics showing what/how you made/did this please? thnx, DanT

- Dan Krager


-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4421 posts in 2748 days


#118 posted 05-10-2019 08:27 PM

Sure. It’ll be Saturday before I can.

The only part that isn’t stock is the simple adapter from the threaded/slotted PTO on the headstock to the 5/8” stub needed for the 5 spline Shopsmith driver.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View Scooterfb's profile

Scooterfb

4 posts in 160 days


#119 posted 05-16-2019 01:33 AM

Hey Dan was just given a super shop in exllent shape with all the goodies just one thing , hit the power and motor smokes something fierce, I’d be ok with it if it were a diesel powered super shop. Have found controlers and new motor here is the biggie with your experience any place where motors might be under 600 ? Also again with your experience any guess as to which is more likely to take a powder motor or controler? or both. Any help would be greatly appreciated I dont want this to go the way of yard art.

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4421 posts in 2748 days


#120 posted 05-16-2019 02:40 PM

Scooter, are you saying the motor is fried? If not, did it spin? Is there pecrhance a foreign substance on the motor? And since some of these were wired for 220V input, check to be sure your input voltage is correct.


Also again with your experience any guess as to which is more likely to take a powder motor or controler? or both. Any help would be greatly appreciated I dont want this to go the way of yard art.
- Scooterfb

I’ve never used a powder motor or controller. :0 What do you mean?

Check the motor plate for mfr and contact them. You might get useful information at least.

No, we can’t let this get to be yard art. Where are you located?

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2169 days


#121 posted 05-16-2019 02:48 PM

When Scooterfb said “take a powder” I think he’s asking which might be the problem, the motor or the controller, but it certainly isn’t clear.


Scooter, are you saying the motor is fried? If not, did it spin? Is there pecrhance a foreign substance on the motor? And since some of these were wired for 220V input, check to be sure your input voltage is correct.

Also again with your experience any guess as to which is more likely to take a powder motor or controler? or both. Any help would be greatly appreciated I dont want this to go the way of yard art.
- Scooterfb

I ve never used a powder motor or controller. :0 What do you mean?

Check the motor plate for mfr and contact them. You might get useful information at least.

No, we can t let this get to be yard art. Where are you located?

DanK

- Dan Krager


View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4421 posts in 2748 days


#122 posted 05-16-2019 03:12 PM

Ha Ha HA! “Take a powder”! Hadn’t heard that British expression in years. Didn’t register without the comma.
Thanks, Ted.

The motor is pretty resilient usually. The original controllers are sensitive to line spikes and similar events. I’ve never seen a controller smoke a motor, though. Has it been tampered with somehow? If someone bypassed the controller and applied 120V AC power to a 90V DC motor, it could smoke it. It wouldn’t be instantly, though.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2169 days


#123 posted 05-16-2019 05:06 PM

If you disconnect the wires from the controller to the motor, and the motor is still working, you likely can get the motor to spin by connecting it to a 12 volt car battery. While you’re at it, you could use a volt/ohm meter to check if you’re getting DC voltage out of the controller. Harbor Freight occasionally gives those meters away for free with the right coupon along with a purchase.

Which SuperShop do you have, a Fox or a Smithy? If the latter, Smithy may be able to help as I’ve heard the motor and controller are the same that they use in one of their metal-working combination machines.


Hey Dan was just given a super shop in exllent shape with all the goodies just one thing , hit the power and motor smokes something fierce, I d be ok with it if it were a diesel powered super shop. Have found controlers and new motor here is the biggie with your experience any place where motors might be under 600 ? Also again with your experience any guess as to which is more likely to take a powder motor or controler? or both. Any help would be greatly appreciated I dont want this to go the way of yard art.

- Scooterfb


View Scooterfb's profile

Scooterfb

4 posts in 160 days


#124 posted 05-17-2019 04:29 PM

I have no idea which shop it is, can’t find any manufactures plate on it. No info on who made motor just 1.5 hp 7.5amp.no makers name on it. 147 volts dc on the board.does not go up or down with speed control.motor is toast no drought there. I at one time years ago was a fighter taking a powder is quiting Sorry I wasn’t clear on that.

View Scooterfb's profile

Scooterfb

4 posts in 160 days


#125 posted 05-17-2019 04:41 PM

All info on motor dc motor 1.5 hp 0.82 rateing dc180 volt 7.5 amp 2800rpm #2004 no manufactures name. I’m In northern california

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2169 days


#126 posted 05-17-2019 05:59 PM

Without an identification on the headstock, it’s probably the model sold by Harbor Freight and that likely is identical to the one sold by Smithy. Here’s a link to the owners manual for the Harbor Freight machine—https://images.harborfreight.com/manuals/96000-96999/96067.pdf If you do a google search on “Smithy Supershop manual” you’ll find the Smithy manual which is more detailed than the Harbor Freight one.

You could try calling Harbor Freight customer service about a motor or controller.

Or, you might be able to get them from Smithy.

Another possibility is to take the motor to a motor repair shop and get a quote on fixing. I’d have the controller tested as well, if as you say the voltage doesn’t vary when adjusting the speed control knob.


I have no idea which shop it is, can t find any manufactures plate on it. No info on who made motor just 1.5 hp 7.5amp.no makers name on it. 147 volts dc on the board.does not go up or down with speed control.motor is toast no drought there. I at one time years ago was a fighter taking a powder is quiting Sorry I wasn t clear on that.

- Scooterfb


View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 398 days


#127 posted 05-17-2019 07:36 PM

I have no idea which shop it is, can t find any manufactures plate on it. No info on who made motor just 1.5 hp 7.5amp.no makers name on it. 147 volts dc on the board.does not go up or down with speed control.motor is toast no drought there. I at one time years ago was a fighter taking a powder is quiting Sorry I wasn t clear on that.
- Scooterfb

Can you post a picture of the machine? That would help ID which variant it is. The name plate is easiest if Fox or Smithy cause there is a fox head silhouette in the O in Shop on name plate for Fox. Smithy just says SuperShop and has partial saw blade teeth.

Here are what I call Da-Brothers! Fox is in rear Smithy in front.
As for which would be more likely to fail, controller board is more likely. But as Ted mentioned, connecting a car battery to the motor should tell what happens. Polarity is important but should turn either way. My Fox has a reverse switch. If it smokes with battery then that is BAD.
Make sure you know what input should be. The thing could be wired for 220 VAC. If that is true, the plug should be different and not be able to be plugged into 120 VAC socket. These are old enough to NOT auto-detect input voltage. The SHopsmith Mark 7 Power Pro headstock does auto-detect input power.
If you need to get parts and find a source, please let us (me) know. I am collecting a repository of Super SHop information. I repair SHopsmith tools and am thinking about adding SuperShops to them as well in addition to possibly becoming an authorized service center for Jet & Powermatic around Knoxville area.

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View Scooterfb's profile

Scooterfb

4 posts in 160 days


#128 posted 05-17-2019 11:00 PM

THANKS guys with all the info given I have figured out its a Smithy and motor is cooked, I have found many Dart brand controllers, so course of action is clear new motor and control . Found lots of motors In ebay under motor controls as a combo used. The supershop was free so I think I’ll go with new motor and control , can’t wait to use this beast.

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 398 days


#129 posted 06-12-2019 12:06 PM

Scooterfb- So did you get a new controller & motor and if yes, where did you purchase? Also approximate cost if you care to share? Is unit now working for you? I have been using “The Brothers” quite a bit lately and appreciate their functionality- especially as a drill press. I did put a gouge to some mahogany turning the other day too but not enough time to do anything and was just a scrap mounted to face plate. ;+D an

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View charliebrown's profile

charliebrown

3 posts in 2079 days


#130 posted 06-13-2019 10:29 AM

I have never posted here before, I don’t think, but thought someone might be interested. There is a new Super Shop for sale on the Albany NY Craigslist, located in Cooperstown NY. He is asking $3000, which is a crazy price.

-- cbrown

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 398 days


#131 posted 06-13-2019 12:30 PM



I have never posted here before, I don’t think, but thought someone might be interested. There is a new Super Shop for sale on the Albany NY Craigslist, located in Cooperstown NY. He is asking $3000, which is a crazy price.

- charliebrown


While it looks “pretty”, $3000 is insane! A friend just purchased a never used Smithy with almost all accessory tools at a Habitat Restore shop for MUCH less. This one only has the jointer- and some nice metal working accessories but the chuck & vise are available on the open market. Good Luck with that sale! WOW is all I can say and guy has not checked the used market to get a good value estimation. Even at $1000 he would be a bit on the high side. And it does not look like it has the motorized carriage option either like the Fox seems to have as standard. Just WOW! In my (humble) opinion for a buyer that wanted this machine, $7-900 would be a better range for this sale.

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4421 posts in 2748 days


#132 posted 06-13-2019 12:55 PM

Yes, $3000 for any Supershop nowadays is exceedingly optimistic at best, especially if it is not the original Fox Supershop, which did have the carriage feed standard.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View merrill77's profile

merrill77

211 posts in 2400 days


#133 posted 06-13-2019 01:28 PM

Yeah, these machines are pretty durable – if a lightly used machine has been cared for at all, it is about as good as new. I purchased one a few months back with barely a scratch on it and more accessories, for ~1/10th of this price (minus the vices). The guy told me he’d used it a lot, but if it was clean you could not tell it from new. This seller is dreaming. There is no collectors market for these and virtually nobody has ever heard of them. As much as I love mine, but they just don’t have much market value (I’m happy to keep it that way!).

-- Turning beautiful wood into scraps...one board at a time --Chris

View HandymanScott's profile

HandymanScott

3 posts in 115 days


#134 posted 07-08-2019 11:56 PM

I was recently given a Smithy Super Shop which was bought new in the mid 90’s. It came with everything except for the collets. Of course I cannot do anything without them. Anyone know where I can get access to them?

View merrill77's profile

merrill77

211 posts in 2400 days


#135 posted 07-09-2019 12:07 AM

It is a standardized part – so you can get them anywhere R8 collets are sold. Online, machine shops, etc. R8 collets can hold a variety of sizes – you probably want a 3/4”. My drill chuck and other accessories are all 3/4” – but you’ll want to check your accessories to see what size they are. My SS also came with 1/2” and 1/4” collets…presumably for spinning router bits.

-- Turning beautiful wood into scraps...one board at a time --Chris

View HandymanScott's profile

HandymanScott

3 posts in 115 days


#136 posted 07-09-2019 03:08 AM

Ok, so I have located the collets that are needed now it looks like all I need is the draw rod. I am finding this to be much more difficult to find. Smithy said I was screwed. I have called all the affiliates and searched high and low. Any ideas on that specific part?

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4421 posts in 2748 days


#137 posted 07-09-2019 04:07 AM

Congratulations on the bonanza, Handyman.

A draw bar is super easy to make. It’s nothing more than a rod with 7/16” coarse threads on the collet end and a handle on the other end. You could even use all thread to make one. There’s nothing speciail about them.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2169 days


#138 posted 07-12-2019 01:38 AM

Fox SuperShop on E-Bay for $250 Buy it now. Item is located in Machesney Park, Illinois. Item number is 383025328343. It looks to be in rough shape, but it’s only $250.

View merrill77's profile

merrill77

211 posts in 2400 days


#139 posted 07-12-2019 04:41 PM

I get item # not found :( Maybe someone already bought it…though usually completed auctions are still searchable.

-- Turning beautiful wood into scraps...one board at a time --Chris

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 398 days


#140 posted 07-12-2019 04:53 PM

Uh-OH!
I just bought my 3rd SuperShop! BUT I AM NOT AN ADDICT!
ok maybe.
Yeah dat twas me dat dun da-deed!
Too good to pass up. This one is a Fox with carriage motor. I will set the 2 Fox machines side by side-1 primarily wood and other for metal- then use Smithy as drill press but make a short stout base (and fasten to wall) so the base does not suck up valuable floor space. I have been purging some of my Shopsmith tools (and other stuff I have not used). My current sales are listed on Craigslist Knoxville. Type in Shopsmith to see the ads. I am selling the “Sammy Sosa” double length Shopsmith in a slightly different configuration -more useful overall. A standalone drill press and a Shopsmith DIY PowerPro headstock complete with headstock housing and motor pan and belt cover. Also a planer and couple jointers- 1-6” and 1-4”. I have other stuff but not listed cause it takes time to get good pictures and write it up etc.
But I and not addicted. I just like how these work! ;+D an (-the-Toolman)

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2169 days


#141 posted 07-12-2019 06:53 PM



I get item # not found :( Maybe someone already bought it…though usually completed auctions are still searchable.

- merrill77


The item sold and it looks like it went for less than the $250. Look for “supershop” under completed auctions. It says best offer accepted.

Dan, did you drive up to Machesney Park, Illinois to pick up your third SuperShop?

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 398 days


#142 posted 07-12-2019 07:37 PM


I get item # not found :( Maybe someone already bought it…though usually completed auctions are still searchable.

- merrill77

The item sold and it looks like it went for less than the $250. Look for “supershop” under completed auctions. It says best offer accepted.

Dan, did you drive up to Machesney Park, Illinois to pick up your third SuperShop?

- Ted724


I offered $240 and was accepted right away. I did not want to take a chance on loosing it. I lived about an hour from there and have (very good) friends that are going to pick it up and keep it until my next trip in Fall. Once they realize how heavy this is I will get cussed at, but like I said good friends. ;+D an

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View GordoB's profile

GordoB

20 posts in 100 days


#143 posted 07-14-2019 05:08 AM

Hi all. GordoB here from TX. Just signed up to join this discussion. I got my Super Shop from my dad last year, but just got it set up. Has all the accessories. I’ll likely use the band saw and drill press, but mostly the lathe. I haven’t turned since high school, and I’m wanting to get into it now.

Question on Chucks: I have read the whole conversation, but as a newb I am a little confused. I want to get into bowls, so I need a big wood chuck. From what I can find, There are no chucks that match the 2-1/4×8 spindle threads. I didn’t follow all the discussion on making adapters, and I don’t really want to reinvent the wheel. What I have found is an R8 to MT2 adapter, and an MT2 with 1”x 8 TPI that I could mount a standard chuck on. What are the ramifications of this solution?

Alternately, I do have a 3 jaw metal chuck. I thought I could use the back plate from that (which has the 2-1/4×8 spindle threads) and get a machine shop to mate it with a Nova or Grizzly jaw. Better Idea?

Anyway, thanks for all the previous posts, I’ve learned a lot. I’ve been a wood working guy my whole life, mostly cabinets and suck, and a lot of plywood boats. I’m looking forward to learning the turning craft.

-- Making sawdust

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4421 posts in 2748 days


#144 posted 07-14-2019 06:11 PM

GordoB, welcome to the discussion.

My experience has been challenged to mate a Nova chuck to the Supershop spindle. I tried their adapters like you are contemplating and found three serious problems.
1. MT adapter from the Nova is short. It comes loose under the tremendous load of a big blank, partly because of the leverage of the large diameter causing it to twist and loosen. I could not get it to stay reliably, even with the machinist trick of bluing the match to see what rubs and what doesn’t fit right on the taper. The fit was as tight as could be made and you could beat it in with a 12 lb maul, and it would still come loose.
2. I had runout problems with tandem adapters like that. Each one amplifies the previous. Maybe you can get lucky and fiddle until one cancels the other, but…
3. The stacked adapters move the chuck far away from the much needed support of the spindle.

What I ended up doing was taking the setup to a machinist friend and had him make a custom R-8 adapter that would thread directly into the back of the Nova without any other adapters. If you don’t have a machinist friend, it could get pricey, so get a quote…not an estimate.

These machines are supposed to swing 17”, but that’s over the ways, not the carriage holding the tool rest. I broke the cast aluminum tool rest turning a bowl because the pressure is tremendous. I spent the money to get a Delta banjo rest and adapted it to fit the T slots in the carriage. Works like a charm. You will have to use the low speed range of the 3 pulley belt system because the motor won’t sustain the RPM on any other setting. 900 RPM is pretty fast for a huge bowl anyway.

I’ve wondered about ourboard turning from the headstock, but never tried it.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View Ted724's profile

Ted724

63 posts in 2169 days


#145 posted 07-14-2019 08:39 PM

Congratulations on your SuperShop, GordoB.

If slippage of the MT-2 adapter inside the R8 adapter is a concern, it may be possible to cross drill the combination and then insert a roll pin or perhaps tack weld the two adapters together. It may be worth a try given the price of custom machining work.

In any event, if you’re planning to turn some small items between centers, you may want an MT-2 to MT-2 extension for the tailstock given the width of the carriage. A live center for the tailstock also is useful if you don’t have one.

View DantheToolman's profile

DantheToolman

35 posts in 398 days


#146 posted 07-15-2019 12:22 PM

Welcm to the foray GordoB! I cannot add more value to the main question than DanK & Ted724. I can however add some other information. Many Shopsmith parts fit directly or with some modification to the SuperShop. The live center Ted724 mentioned is one and very useful. Both SuperShop & Shopsmith have a Morse #2 taper in the tailstock. The live center and drill chuck mount are 2 options that are quite useful and parts are plentiful still. I repair Shopsmith tools and have a nice stock of both. If you have a 5/8’ shaft, all the Shopsmith accessories can fit the quill of the SuperShop. I made one by sacrificing an old style quill from a dead Shopsmith and used that for a bit until I bought my 2nd SuperShop that had a drill chuck (3/4” into the R-8 collet). I also found it was a little bent so will need to get or make another that is straight, but for what I was drilling it was not critical. I find the SuperShop surpasses the Shopsmith for drilling and lathe just because of the slower speeds. I just replaced the belts with Kevlar ones and it smoothed out some things but eventually I will need to replace bearings- especially in the Smithy because I can hear them grinding a little. Enjoy your new toy and BE SAFE! Any questions, post here and we will do our best to answer or gives options and opinions.

-- When someone tells me that can't be done, I think they are challenging me.....

View GordoB's profile

GordoB

20 posts in 100 days


#147 posted 07-18-2019 03:10 PM

Thanks so much guys. Live center will be here Thursday, along with a robust tool rest. Geeeshe that AL tool rest sucks!. And the MT2 extension for the tailstock will be here next week.

So Dan, no problems with the R8 to 1” 8TPI adapter? That was another thought I had. IDK who I would get to make it. Also, could you expand on the tool rest? I see the limitations of the SS design, I’d like to have a simple banjo setup? Even just a couple closeup pics would be awesome.

Now I’ve never held a wood chuck in my hand. Do they have a back plate like a metal chuck? There are plenty of generic 2 1/4 8TPI backplates available, if I had a wood chuck that had a backplate that could be removed, I could match a new plate to it.

Alas I hate that I have this cool machine, and the main thing I want to do is an issue because it’s too robust!

-- Making sawdust

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4421 posts in 2748 days


#148 posted 07-18-2019 05:41 PM

GordoB, This is a Delta lathe banjo like what I have. The nut on the underside needs to be changed to fit the T-slots on the carriage, but otherwise it is plug and play.

All my adapter problems went away with this custom adapter. Wood chucks do not normally have back plates like metal chucks, just threaded female. Nova’s threads are “spayshal” so they fit nothing without an adapter. So the threads on the R-8 were cut to fit the chuck with no other adapter.

If you have all the stuff the machine was shipped with, you should have a face plate. Actually two of them because the sanding disk is made with a face plate in it. Just unscrew it. Face plates will do just about everything a chuck will do only not so quickly, and some things a chuck can only dream of doing. A large bowl blank can be secured directly to the face plate with screws. You may need more than the standard 4 pattern so drill more holes. An old turners trick (that can be used by young turners :) is to place a newspaper sheet between a blank and a disposable wood backing that gets screwed to the face plate. This has limitations with large diameters on a small foot, but if the foot (back plate) contact is at least half the finished OD it should be OK. When done, split the newspaper with a sharp knife to release the turning from the backing.

The unit should have come with one drive spur for the lathe, so spindles can be done. It’s a biggie, so I generally band saw a couple shallow slots in the spur end of a blank using a V block. That will find the center where you should drill a 1/4” hole about 1/2” deep for the giant spur center. This arrangement is very strong….will split the spindle before spinning out.

Did the unit not come with a tool rest? I don’t understand what you bought, I guess.

Peace out.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com All my life I've wanted to be someone. I see now I should have been more specific.

View JethrowClampett's profile

JethrowClampett

24 posts in 256 days


#149 posted 07-18-2019 06:09 PM


I repair Shopsmith tools and have a nice stock of both. If you have a 5/8 shaft, all the Shopsmith accessories can fit the quill of the SuperShop. I made one by sacrificing an old style quill from a dead Shopsmith and used that for a bit until I bought my 2nd SuperShop that had a drill chuck (3/4” into the R-8 collet).

- Dan

Dan – so if I have a R-8 5/8” collet, I can take a Shopsmith shaft, cut to length to clear the carriage and figure in the arbor lengths, and use all of the Shopsmith accessories and arbors ? If so who sells just the shaft ? Price ?

Jethrow

-- Jethrow

View GordoB's profile

GordoB

20 posts in 100 days


#150 posted 07-18-2019 08:10 PM

Did the unit not come with a tool rest? I don t understand what you bought, I guess.

Thanks Dan. Yeah, it came with the stock tool rest. It’s rough, and AL, so dents with every catch. Just not smooth. I have a new one arriving tomorrow.

I’ll just go for the R8 adapter. I just want to use the spindle threads since that’s the best case, but I’m good if I can find a machinist.

Thanks Jethrow. I had seen that, but looking for minimum #of connections to remove concerns of runnout as Dan has mentioned. Since I don’t already have Shopsmith stuff, no sense in starting there.

OK, so I’m looking at Grizzly chucks. Decent? I’ll just get someone to make a 1” 8TPI thread on an R8 shaft.

-- Making sawdust

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

« prev 1 2 3 4 5 6 next »
267 replies


DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com