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View Karda's profile

band saw blade won't track

by Karda
posted 06-15-2018 04:04 AM


39 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 4128 days


#1 posted 06-15-2018 05:16 AM

The relationship between the tracking adjustment
and the blade tension can be fussy. I’d start
at low tension and fiddle with the tracking
knob while rotating by hand. If you can’t
find the sweet spot with the tracking knob,
get close and add some tension, then try
the tracking knob again.

View Rich's profile

Rich

4821 posts in 1070 days


#2 posted 06-15-2018 05:28 AM


The relationship between the tracking adjustment
and the blade tension can be fussy. I d start
at low tension and fiddle with the tracking
knob while rotating by hand. If you can t
find the sweet spot with the tracking knob,
get close and add some tension, then try
the tracking knob again.

- Loren

They are independent of one another. The tracking adjusts the tilt of the top wheel, while the tension affects its height and therefore the tension of the blade.

I adjusted the position of the blade on the top tire (tracking) according to the Snodgrass video a couple of years ago and haven’t had to touch it since. I do deal with the tension pretty often though, changing blades and the like.

-- There's no such thing as a careless electrician

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7468 posts in 2679 days


#3 posted 06-15-2018 05:55 AM

What you describe makes no sense unless 1) something is interfering with the blade and pushing it forward/backward somewhere, 2) the wheels are way out of spec and one is seriously out of whack, or 3) the blade is defective. Does the same thing happen with your other (old) blade? If not, then I’d suspect the new blade and start by laying it flat on the ground or similar to make sure it’s not warped.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Karda's profile

Karda

1646 posts in 1034 days


#4 posted 06-15-2018 06:52 AM

Brad you are right it don’t make sense, when i try to get the blade in the blade guide to go back som I can move the blade back on the wheel i can’t get them to line up, I loosened the thrust bearing up and moved them back but it don’t make any difference. tomorrow I ‘ll check the blade for warps thanks Mike

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3626 posts in 1054 days


#5 posted 06-15-2018 08:13 AM

I am going to post the Alex Snodgrass video, and he will tell you at exactly the 6 minute mark NOT to adjust the wheels on a bandsaw, because the manufacturer put them where they wanted them to be. Moving or changing them will mess you up.

So look at the video, and when you are satisfied this guy who travels the country, and will walk up to the bandsaw you brought in, and use it after only a minute of fiddling. That bandsaw will be said to cut as well as the best bandsaw on the planet. He’s got the chops. Only question is will you believe him, and call the manufacturer for instructions of setting your wheels, which is what needs to be done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

6 minute mark. The entire video will help you a lot, but not until you get the angle of your wheels fixed.

Good luck.

-- Think safe, be safe

View jmos's profile

jmos

916 posts in 2850 days


#6 posted 06-15-2018 12:05 PM

Not to be insulting, but have you moved BOTH thrust bearings back; upper and lower? You mention one bearing, so I just thought I’d throw it out. If the lower is too far forward it could be pushing the blade off.

I second Brad’s suggestion; try an old blade and make sure the problem isn’t with the new blade. If the welded ends were cut at angles, you’ve got a cone instead of a band, and I can’t imagine that would work well.

-- John

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

6373 posts in 1193 days


#7 posted 06-15-2018 02:24 PM

if the blade is that bad that it comes off wheels …. wouldn’t you hear that thumping :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

3125 posts in 2653 days


#8 posted 06-15-2018 02:31 PM

Check the wheel mount shaft it may be bent.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 4128 days


#9 posted 06-15-2018 03:17 PM

No offense intended to those who already
have woodworking completely figured out,
but sometimes my experience has yielded
different views.

I’ve had a few saw with fussy tracking where
I was never able to just crank on the tension
and adjust the tracking after. I never made
a scientific study of the issue but I have
read on a book on band saws before. There
are lots of things that can be a little off on
a band saw and even saws in apparently good
condition, particularly smaller ones, can have
little quirks.

Creeping up on the tension while tweaking the
tilt knob has worked for me in some of these
tracking situations.

I’m getting tired of being anitpicked here by for
having an opinion that differs from some
expert-du-jour with YouTube channel.

I’m sorry to see the forum go this way, but that’s
what I see and I’m probably going to stop
participating much.

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

6373 posts in 1193 days


#10 posted 06-15-2018 03:25 PM



No offense intended to those who already
have woodworking completely figured out,
but sometimes my experience has yielded
different views.

I ve had a few saw with fussy tracking where
I was never able to just crank on the tension
and adjust the tracking after. I never made
a scientific study of the issue but I have
read on a book on band saws before. There
are lots of things that can be a little off on
a band saw and even saws in apparently good
condition, particularly smaller ones, can have
little quirks.

Creeping up on the tension while tweaking the
tilt knob has worked for me in some of these
tracking situations.

I m getting tired of being anitpicked here by for
having an opinion that differs from some
expert-du-jour with YouTube channel.

I m sorry to see the forum go this way, but that s
what I see and I m probably going to stop
participating much.

- Loren


PLEASE DO NOT STOP GIVING YOUR OPINIONS Loren :<)))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View Rich's profile

Rich

4821 posts in 1070 days


#11 posted 06-15-2018 04:18 PM


I m getting tired of being anitpicked here by for
having an opinion that differs from some
expert-du-jour with YouTube channel.

You can’t handle someone disagreeing with you, so you insult them? Expert du jour with youtube… Ouch! LOL

My first comment about their independence was based on my knowledge of mechanics that I learned in engineering school at the University of Wisconsin. My second comment about my saw and how it has not required tracking adjustment even with multiple tension changes was based on personal experience with a saw that I’ve owned and used for over fifty years. Finally, the Snodgrass video is the de facto standard on LJ for band saw setup. It was even mentioned in this thread after my post and, in fact, seems to be linked to in most threads about band saw issues.

You’re right that there are many things that can be off on a band saw, and you’ve obviously run into some of them that you were unable to understand.


I m sorry to see the forum go this way, but that s
what I see and I m probably going to stop
participating much.

- Loren

Well, at least you’re going to be mature about it. I don’t get the part about the forum going this way though. Can’t you handle your ideas being challenged? Don’t you want to have to support your statements? I know I do. I like to be questioned about things I say — it keeps me honest. There have been plenty of times I’ve realized I missed the mark and wound up learning something new. I like that. Rather than making me want to go sulk, it makes me want more because I want to learn all I can. LJ has certainly taught me a great deal, and I look forward to much more in the future.

-- There's no such thing as a careless electrician

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5661 posts in 3724 days


#12 posted 06-15-2018 04:19 PM

My first question would be; did you have the problem before you put on the new blade? If not, the new blade would be suspect.

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3626 posts in 1054 days


#13 posted 06-15-2018 05:32 PM


I m getting tired of being anitpicked here by for
having an opinion that differs from some
expert-du-jour with YouTube channel.

- Loren

Experience is a lot like a certain body part. Everybody has one. It’s my opinion that you are an easily bruised fruit.

Now I learn some by reading, much by actually doing, but when teaching you can ask a real teacher, and the best medium to present for the best COMPREHENSION, and LEARNING is TV, Video, something with a wide visual acceptance that speech, and or writing cannot convey as completely. A hint to you, it’s why magazines about woodworking are folding at the rate they are, there is a new Sheriff is in town, and his name is VIDEO.

Because I will post a link to a You Tube doesn’t mean if I was standing right there I couldn’t SHOW you how to do it correctly. You will also see where I type detailed instructions. Maybe you haven’t noticed, but I have, that my instructions, and yours are very similar. I really don’t GARA if you are offended by me, think I don’t know anything, whatever makes you happy.

Now, going forward you can do one of many things. It appears some would miss you if you did take your toys and go away, and that’s also not being very BIG now, is it. So why don’t you open your head to the FACT that there are always different ways to do anything.

If I knew how to make a video, I would, but I wonder if you would be an happier. So I go to the video library for woodworking, and find one that conveys to whomever I am attempting to tell, show, reach, what I think they need to know, and present that. Again, you don’t like that (shrugs shoulders) I don’t GARA.

-- Think safe, be safe

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3626 posts in 1054 days


#14 posted 06-15-2018 05:38 PM



Hi, got a new band saw blade. when I installed it it won t stay on the wheel, guess I messed with the wheel adjustment to much.

- Karda


My first question would be; did you have the problem before you put on the new blade? If not, the new blade would be suspect.

- MrRon

See above the snip of OP’s initial statement, and why like a LUMMOX I don’t think it has skinny to do with the blade. He changed the tilt of the wheels, also why I posted Alex’s video, and specifically directed the OP to the section at minute 6, where a guy who knows a LOT about bandsaws says very emphatically leave the angles alone.

Like Loren would suggest, I don’t know anything, but I once slept in a Motel 6 :-)

-- Think safe, be safe

View Karda's profile

Karda

1646 posts in 1034 days


#15 posted 06-15-2018 06:20 PM

Children quit bickering, My take on knowledge is #1 I am stupid therefore must ask questions and #2 no matter how expert you are there is always somebody that know something different. I appreciate everybody’s input it is a great help. I have watched the snodgrass video several times, once before I presented the question here. Yes he says not to adjust the wheels but that is irrelevant the wheels are already messed up. I haven’t tried loosening the tension but that may be it. I saw a clip snodgess did the mentioned deflection and found I was a little loose. therealSteveN I have always had a little tracking problem Thanks Mike

View Dwain's profile

Dwain

596 posts in 4339 days


#16 posted 06-15-2018 06:53 PM

Why the heck has everyone, and I mean EVERYONE on this post become so darn sensitive? I will tell you all what I tell my kids, because you seem to be acting like them.

#1) Stop whining. There is no whining in this house.

#2) If you can’t say anything constructive, then don’t say anything.

Some of you are too sensitive, others are too defensive. I would suggest we all grow the heck up. Answer the question the original poster asked. Feel free to share your options in answering the question and shut the hell up about what others suggest.

Man, can we start acting like adults?

-- When you earnestly believe you can compensate for a lack of skill by doubling your efforts, there is no end to what you CAN'T do

View Charlie H.'s profile

Charlie H.

385 posts in 1130 days


#17 posted 06-15-2018 07:13 PM

Since the OP has been using the bandsaw I figure blade tracking is a somewhat familiar operation.

FWIW tracking on 1/8” blades is very touchy on my saw, if it’s a very narrow blade it may just require a very delicate touch on the tracking knob. Another FWIW is I have to adjust tracking for every different blade and I adjust the tracking per the Snodgrass method so it’s not infallible.

For the problem at hand, I will assume that nothing but the tension and blade tracking has been messed with on the saw between the old and new blade.
If the wheels have been otherwise adjusted, that’s most likely the problem.

If I put a new blade on and it wouldn’t track as has been mentioned, I would make sure the thrust bearings weren’t pushing it off the wheels, if that’s not the problem, I would put the old blade back on and see if it can be made to track, if it doesn’t I am kinda stumped.

Assuming the old blade tracks, then on the new blade find the weld, lay the blade on the tablesaw tooth side up, the blade should lie flat, if it doesn’t the weld is defective.
If that’s not the problem I am stumped.

-- Regards, Charlie in Rowlett, TX --------I talk to myself, because sometimes I need expert advice.---------

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3626 posts in 1054 days


#18 posted 06-15-2018 07:52 PM

Back to the OP. Have you done what several have suggested, and put the old blade back on? If you did this, did the problem go away? Doing this, you will find out quickly if it is the blade? Problem solving is a process of elimination. I’m pretty sure the blade can easily be eliminated.

-- Think safe, be safe

View Karda's profile

Karda

1646 posts in 1034 days


#19 posted 06-15-2018 09:13 PM

Hi, got it tracking, I checked every where I could see and didn’t see anything to stop the blade. Then i centered the blade on the wheel per snodgrass it still came off so i recentered the blade but this time I put my fingers in back of the wheel where the blade runs off and slowly turned the wheel. i couldn’t feel the blade so i removed my finger and the blade stayed on tray. Turned saw on and it still worked. Thanks for all of your suggestions Mike

View msinc's profile

msinc

567 posts in 984 days


#20 posted 06-15-2018 09:25 PM


No offense intended to those who already
have woodworking completely figured out,
but sometimes my experience has yielded
different views.

I ve had a few saw with fussy tracking where
I was never able to just crank on the tension
and adjust the tracking after. I never made
a scientific study of the issue but I have
read on a book on band saws before. There
are lots of things that can be a little off on
a band saw and even saws in apparently good
condition, particularly smaller ones, can have
little quirks.

Creeping up on the tension while tweaking the
tilt knob has worked for me in some of these
tracking situations.

I m getting tired of being anitpicked here by for
having an opinion that differs from some
expert-du-jour with YouTube channel.

I m sorry to see the forum go this way, but that s
what I see and I m probably going to stop
participating much.

- Loren

If you would be so kind as to NOT stop commenting/participating on my threads I would very much appreciate it and offer thanks in advance sir!!!


I am going to post the Alex Snodgrass video, and he will tell you at exactly the 6 minute mark NOT to adjust the wheels on a bandsaw, because the manufacturer put them where they wanted them to be. Moving or changing them will mess you up.
- therealSteveN

Alex is first rate and a whiz with a bandsaw. I really like his videos and am glad that he makes them for us to benefit from. That said, I have purchased 3 bandsaws in the last few years that would not track because the previous owner saw the spider adjustment{for lack of a better term} or whatever you call it and tried to “re-adjust” the saw…when unable to do so the saw was abandoned and I came into the picture, so the idea that the wheel plane adjustment {spider/tracking/whatever} is always where the factory wants it to be or that “moving or changing them will mess you up” is patently false. If the saw is out of whack and unusable where is the loss???

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3626 posts in 1054 days


#21 posted 06-16-2018 07:17 PM

Is there a question here for me?

Did I miss where the OP said he bought the saw used?

-- Think safe, be safe

View Karda's profile

Karda

1646 posts in 1034 days


#22 posted 06-16-2018 08:30 PM

The saw is a WEN 10” I bought a couple years ago

View Andybb's profile (online now)

Andybb

2027 posts in 1084 days


#23 posted 06-16-2018 09:20 PM

Wow. That got crazy quickly boys!

1. Snodgrass is a pro but….His famous reference video (the one where he says there is no such thing as drift) is based on him being a manufacturers rep for brand new quality built saws. It all sounds good on paper but it just didn’t apply to my old riser blocked Harbor Freight Central Machinery saw where the pot metal actually flexes when it gets adjusted. I would love to see Alex try and dial that beast in. I really would. If he could it would be a great video for everybody who doesn’t have a brand new name brand saw in their shop. But, when I got my Laguna 14 six months ago I assembled it right out of the box and made ZERO, nada, zilch adjustments to it or the fence and it is still dead nuts perfect today. 3 blades. 3/4, 1/2 & 1/4. Swap blade, adjust tension, cut wood, just like Alex does.

2. In my relative “newbieness” I have found that the BSaw is the most difficult to get set up properly because there are just sooooo many adjustments that all affect each other, whereas most tools are just 1 if not 2 axis (axi, axisis, axises??) of spinning metal to adjust.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

3060 posts in 2505 days


#24 posted 06-17-2018 04:50 AM

On a couple of occasions, I have cured tracking issues by tweaking the bottom wheel. Used very thin shims. Maybe not kosher, but it worked.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

1612 posts in 2210 days


#25 posted 06-17-2018 02:25 PM

Mike, glad to see you got your saw working again.


On a couple of occasions, I have cured tracking issues by tweaking the bottom wheel. Used very thin shims. Maybe not kosher, but it worked.

- runswithscissors

I would love to see pictures of your bottom wheel tweaks you made to your saw. Everyone I’ve ever seen are fixed….... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3626 posts in 1054 days


#26 posted 06-17-2018 05:12 PM

Andybb I currently have 2 BS’s my 14” is the same HF POS you referenced, and by doing what Alex, and Michael Fortune suggest, almost exactly word for word, my HF saw can cut 12” veneer, no drift. They don’t have any more “flex” than any other 14” Delta clone. Perhaps you should try to set your saw up for success, rather than believe it can’t do what you want it to???

Anyone else here with a HF saw that does cut very well? If so, jump in and tell us how you got it that way. I will admit I have trashed the cheap set screws they provided, and changed them out for some decent quality hardware so the saw will retain a setting, but that would go for any tool that didn’t have good quality hardware.

Nubnstubs The lower wheels are fixed, but you can remove them, and some folks used to shim them up, out, in, whatever they thought made it better. I don’t see any of the people who are talking about BS’s today suggesting doing anything with the lower wheel though, that was 25 to 30 years ago. It was back then that talk of co-planer wheels, and adjusting the top wheel were what people said to do, also when you started hearing more about this drift phenomena. Drifted because the saw wasn’t set up to win.

Both Fortune and Snodgrass will walk up to an unknown bandsaw, and can adjust them out so they run flawlessly in just a minute or two. When you see someones 3 wheel POS go from a ragged cut, to making short little resaws with perfect thickness, it will make you a believer.

-- Think safe, be safe

View Andybb's profile (online now)

Andybb

2027 posts in 1084 days


#27 posted 06-17-2018 08:56 PM



Andybb I currently have 2 BS s my 14” is the same HF POS you referenced, and by doing what Alex, and Michael Fortune suggest, almost exactly word for word, my HF saw can cut 12” veneer, no drift. They don t have any more “flex” than any other 14” Delta clone. Perhaps you should try to set your saw up for success, rather than believe it can t do what you want it to???
- therealSteveN

You misunderstand my point. A new HF BS is not a POS. Mine was actually a Central Machinery pre HF and was very old, added onto and modified. Urethane tires, riser block, cool block guides etc. It was my baby and my POS, and yes repaired, then had to replace the pot metal pivot that the top wheel spins on because it wears out and flexes over 30 years. That’s why they sell parts. It did everything thing I needed it to do when it came to cutting curves etc. but setting it up for resawing and ripping accurately was an hours long ordeal and it struggled with a 3/4” blade. I can probably quote the Snodgrass video by heart as one day I probably re-did the set up 10 times one day. I can slide a 12” tall chunk of cocobolo or oak through it like it was pine within 3 mins of mounting the blade.

I hope I didn’t come off sounding insulting to HF BS owners. I am one of you. It was just time for an upgrade.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Rich's profile

Rich

4821 posts in 1070 days


#28 posted 06-17-2018 09:05 PM


I hope I didn t come off sounding insulting to HF BS owners. I am one of you. It was just time for an upgrade.

- Andybb

And upgrade you did… to a Laguna. I’m not jealous, I just sound that way.

-- There's no such thing as a careless electrician

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7468 posts in 2679 days


#29 posted 06-17-2018 09:24 PM

It was my baby and my POS, and yes repaired, then had to replace the pot metal pivot that the top wheel spins on because it wears out and flexes over 30 years. That s why they sell parts. It did everything thing I needed it to do when it came to cutting curves etc. but setting it up for resawing and ripping accurately was an hours long ordeal and it struggled with a 3/4” blade.
- Andybb

The upper wheel tracking hinge is a weak spot on all 14” cast iron bandsaws, not just yours – and trying to run a 3/4” blade on one will put too much stress on it – even more so when using a riser – which results in what you experienced. It’s not the machine, it’s the design – which is basically identical to the original Delta it’s cloned after.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Andybb's profile (online now)

Andybb

2027 posts in 1084 days


#30 posted 06-17-2018 09:36 PM



It was my baby and my POS, and yes repaired, then had to replace the pot metal pivot that the top wheel spins on because it wears out and flexes over 30 years. That s why they sell parts. It did everything thing I needed it to do when it came to cutting curves etc. but setting it up for resawing and ripping accurately was an hours long ordeal and it struggled with a 3/4” blade.
- Andybb

The upper wheel tracking hinge is a weak spot on all 14” cast iron bandsaws, not just yours – and trying to run a 3/4” blade on one will put too much stress on it – even more so when using a riser – which results in what you experienced. It s not the machine, it s the design – which is basically identical to the original Delta it s cloned after.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix


Thank you Brad. You summed it up perfectly for me. I, without realizing it was asking too much of the machine. Not it’s fault. I just didn’t know it and had nobody to tell me any different.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Desert_Woodworker's profile

Desert_Woodworker

1866 posts in 1695 days


#31 posted 06-17-2018 10:02 PM

Don’t leave Loren, for we must stand together to teach the truth of ALDER.
To me, what is better than the rallying around Mr. Snodgrass, is when someone disagrees with a Charles Neil
post.

-- Desert_Woodworker

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3626 posts in 1054 days


#32 posted 06-17-2018 10:20 PM

Yeah a 3/4” blade on any of the 14” clone saws would be a stretch, you’ll have your best luck with a 1/2” 3TPI of a good quality, and as usual welds are important. Getting good welds on the blister pack blades is pretty much pure luck. Most of the decent blade dealers have got someone who just does welds. Problem there you want to catch them the last day they do that job, rather than the first. Usually it’s a low paid, quick turnover job.

If you are now resawing on the Laguna, and just doing curves on the HF saw, you may want to look at the Carter guide for small blades. “The CTR1 is for the HF saw, and most 14 clone saws 80 bux sounds like a lot, but if you want to do scroll like turns on a BS it’ll get them done. If you’ve seen Alex’s video’s it’s what he usually has on.

-- Think safe, be safe

View Andybb's profile (online now)

Andybb

2027 posts in 1084 days


#33 posted 06-17-2018 11:15 PM



If you are now resawing on the Laguna, and just doing curves on the HF saw, you may want to look at the Carter guide for small blades.
- therealSteveN

Sold the HF and keep the 1/4” on the Laguna 90% since it’s literally a 5 min setup to swap to the 3/4”.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Desert_Woodworker's profile

Desert_Woodworker

1866 posts in 1695 days


#34 posted 06-17-2018 11:57 PM

+1
you’ll have your best luck with a 1/2” 3TPI of a good quality

I follow the Snodgrass method with success regarding BS drift. IMO this can only be done with the ½” 3TPI blades- anything larger, then you can’t center the blade gullet on the center of the tire, per Snodgrass.
An aside, I contacted Carter Co. to ask them about this. They told me that they would contact Mr Snodgrass and that he would get back to me- he never did.
Not to be porcine with my asides- but after watching the Snodgrass video many times, I wonder what happened to that boy who was dating Snodgrass’ daughter- where he gives the lad a lecture on dating (if you have watched this vid then you will understand) ?

-- Desert_Woodworker

View Karda's profile

Karda

1646 posts in 1034 days


#35 posted 06-18-2018 12:46 AM

that is a good question, about his daughters dates. Many fathers say worse and manage to keep dates. But can’t say anything more I never had a girl or a boy either

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Desert_Woodworker

1866 posts in 1695 days


#36 posted 06-18-2018 01:08 AM



that is a good question, about his daughters dates. Many fathers say worse and manage to keep dates. But can t say anything more I never had a girl or a boy either

- Karda

I wonder if he was able to keep her on “track”

-- Desert_Woodworker

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Karda

1646 posts in 1034 days


#37 posted 06-18-2018 02:43 AM

that we will never know, But if he wasn’t a wimp I bet she was

View Andybb's profile (online now)

Andybb

2027 posts in 1084 days


#38 posted 06-18-2018 04:36 PM



Perhaps you should try to set your saw up for success, rather than believe it can t do what you want it to???
- therealSteveN

Not to beat a dead pig (but since the thread has been thoroughly hacked anyway) I was very aware of what my saw could and could not do. As an example, a friend came over yesterday to use my saw. My HF could not do this to a 12” slab of cocobolo as much as I tried to get it to no matter what modifications I did to it. I’ve never had to make any adjustments to this saw.


-- Andy - Seattle USA

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Aj2

2430 posts in 2278 days


#39 posted 06-18-2018 04:52 PM

Cocobolo is some nasty wood very ornery. So I’d says that’s a good cut. :)

-- Aj

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