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View NeophyteGrant's profile

Help. I have a bevel up jointer, smoother, and Jack but want to try BD

by NeophyteGrant
posted 06-02-2018 01:09 AM


16 replies so far

View Don W's profile

Don W

19285 posts in 3016 days


#1 posted 06-02-2018 11:59 AM

Your starting down a road of personalities now. What you have will probably do anything you ever need, but I’m pretty sure once you get a BD smoother, the BU will spend a lot more time on the shelf.

It’s more about what’s best suited for the job than “will it do the job.”

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10858 posts in 1935 days


#2 posted 06-02-2018 12:42 PM

Pretty much. Myself being a fan of cap irons to control tear out I’m all in on BD.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View NeophyteGrant's profile

NeophyteGrant

114 posts in 958 days


#3 posted 06-03-2018 08:34 AM

Thanks Don and Fridge. Indeed, as you say Don, I’ve never wanted in strict terms from my BUs—they’ve done the job. And they’ll sufficiently do any job, that I’ve done and probably will do I’d expect, but as I’ve progressed its gone from “will do sufficiently” to the optimal. Funny how that develops. It just sits there and nags you! I started out thinking, oh, I’ll do the generalist, but now i want to specialize.

I can see how a smoother is top of the list- if/when I do add a BD-or a small jack maybe. I don’t see the need for a BD jointer over the BU jointer off the top of my head.

View Tim's profile

Tim

3822 posts in 2410 days


#4 posted 06-03-2018 12:45 PM

Are you thinking premium like LV or LN? Getting a LN with a standard and high angle frog or one of each plane could open up some options for you. Starting with adding a BD smoother does seem to make sense, but I’ve never used a BU bench plane.

View NeophyteGrant's profile

NeophyteGrant

114 posts in 958 days


#5 posted 06-03-2018 08:33 PM

Most likely LN. I was kind of eyeing the lateral set screws LV has bit bthey’re out of stock for over a month (again) The Ln smoother has a Norris adjuster, which I like. All of the BUs have a combined lateral and feed adjustment. LN limits lateral movment mainly because I’ve found that unless it’s perfectly tuned it can shift laterally some when you adjust. The more proficient the better feel I get for stopping that though. But I find myself wanting to set a depth and leave it there because I’ve only found success loosening the lever cap, adjusting and then double checking that the blade hasn’t skewed when I forward the blade out. It becomes a fuss.

I can see advantages already to lateral adjustment and on the fly depth adjustment. Basically I realized why schwarz says the BDs are more a specialized tool (others say this).

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

23403 posts in 3132 days


#6 posted 06-03-2018 08:39 PM

Nah…

Stanley #4, type 10….

New ones? Maybe look into the ones by Woodriver?

Mine are either Stanley or by Millers Falls….

Then you get into the realm of..

Grooved soles, or smooth soles….

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 4097 days


#7 posted 06-03-2018 08:49 PM

I would be more inclined to classify the bevel
up planes as specialized. Modern ductile iron
makes manufacture of more durable ones feasible
than in Stanley’s heyday. I dropped an old
Stanley spokeshave on concrete once and it
broke in half. The ductile iron planes are supposed
to be less brittle.

I prefer the bevel down generally. I have some
bevel up planes and they aren’t my favorites.
I prefer to be able to tweak the depth and
chipbreaker settings on the fly. The LV BU
planes may be easier to adjust than the LN ones
I have though.

View ColonelTravis's profile

ColonelTravis

1976 posts in 2343 days


#8 posted 06-03-2018 09:01 PM

If you’ve gotten along just fine with bevel up planes, why do you want bevel down, specifically L-N? I’ve got both types, but it seems to me that spending a lot of money just for a lateral adjuster is waste of $. In the grand scheme of things, a lateral adjuster lever isn’t that big of a deal vs. my tiny hammer.

The reason I don’t use bevel up planes exclusively is because the tearout you can get is horrific. Avoiding that problem is more of a compelling reason to me for using BD planes.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10858 posts in 1935 days


#9 posted 06-03-2018 09:05 PM

I wouldn’t exactly call it specializing since BD is has been the standard for awhile. Multiple irons for a BU plane has become popular because it’s a cheaper way to start out planing if new is preferred.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View NeophyteGrant's profile

NeophyteGrant

114 posts in 958 days


#10 posted 06-03-2018 09:35 PM

Tearout is one, too, and I find the adjustment in the LN BUs frustrating. Depth adjustments on the fly may not be a compelling enough reason either. But my frustrations are more just that, frustration, not problems. This may be an awful, crazy reason, but I feel like maybe I’m meant to be a BD guy as far as preferences go.

The final intangible element is comprehensiveness—ive never used a BD plane for long at all. It feels like working on the skill set I should be at least familiar with BD. But then that says why not just buy vintage if it’s just to own one.

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

23403 posts in 3132 days


#11 posted 06-03-2018 09:53 PM

Stanley N0.7c, type 9

Panel is 18” x 24”

Jointing leg stock..Stanley No. 8, type 7

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10858 posts in 1935 days


#12 posted 06-03-2018 10:21 PM

I have a couple Stanley’s ready to roll if interested. 2 no5s and a no4.

PM if so.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Don W's profile

Don W

19285 posts in 3016 days


#13 posted 06-03-2018 10:24 PM

Well, let’s face it, its all personal preference. We can argue which works better, but it’ll go on forever. Buy one, try it. If you don’t like it sell it. If you buy it intelligently you won’t loose enough to even notice.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10858 posts in 1935 days


#14 posted 06-03-2018 10:58 PM

Ditto.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Robert's profile

Robert

3468 posts in 1929 days


#15 posted 06-04-2018 01:17 PM

The only rationale I can see for a BU smoother is multiple irons honed for higher angle approaches. I have a BU jack originally bought for shooting, but I’ve found it too light so I’m back to my #6 for shooting. Nowadays I rarely ever use it except for cleaning up drawer joints. I’ve found a well hones BD plane does just fine on endgrain.

Regarding BD, I have several LN and LV planes, and I think overall I like the LN 4 1/2 the most. With eased edges, it is simply the bomb on planing face grain or panels.

(Although not considered a “premium” plane, I put the Wood River line right up there with the premiums. Yes, made in China & I got over it after trying one. Now I have a 4, 6, and 7).

A vintage Stanley will do fine and is probably the best option initially, but if you opt for a LN I promise you will not be sorry. ;-)

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View NeophyteGrant's profile

NeophyteGrant

114 posts in 958 days


#16 posted 06-05-2018 01:51 AM

Thanks for all the input guys. I think I’m gonna sit and noodle for a while and see if the mood still strikes me a bit down the road. Another thing I’ve come to appreciate is diagnosing that (glorious) nasty bug of new-tool-itis. Sometimes one needs an observation period to see if they are infected.

G

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