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Stanley 62 plane restoration ...

by mikey78
posted 03-12-2018 04:18 PM


27 replies so far

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mikey78

37 posts in 1359 days


#1 posted 03-12-2018 04:24 PM

While I was running this same thread in a UK forum
someone just destroyed what I achieved reading hardly on the web :
“Stanley threads are not withworth . . .”
So now I don’t know what to look for !!!

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TheFridge

10861 posts in 2338 days


#2 posted 03-12-2018 04:52 PM

Thinks it’s 12-20

Yep.

http://lumberjocks.com/WayneC/blog/38068

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Smitty_Cabinetshop

16905 posts in 3470 days


#3 posted 03-12-2018 04:56 PM

I don’t think that’s a correct rod. 62s had a headed bolt, not the brass/steel combo used on the bench planes. And I believe Don W. has a references post for all things Threads… if not Don, then Wayne C here on LJs.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. - OldTools Archive -

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TheFridge

10861 posts in 2338 days


#4 posted 03-12-2018 05:01 PM

I defer to smitty. Pretty sure he has one and I’ve never seen one in person.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Tim

3859 posts in 2813 days


#5 posted 03-12-2018 05:33 PM

Fridge, I think he’s saying you’re right (Wayne’s post you link agrees with you), but that the rod Mikey has is not 12-20.

I do think that no matter what the thread on that plane is, it would be better to make a new rod than to braze up the hole and drill and tap.

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Smitty_Cabinetshop

16905 posts in 3470 days


#6 posted 03-12-2018 05:46 PM

Sorry, didn’t see Fridge’s post, must have been crossing in cyberspace when i hit SUBMIT on mine. Anyway, yeah, nothing inconsistent between the two comments. Tim nailed it as well.

See comment #85 under this post for additional discussion of said tote bolt: http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/28810

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. - OldTools Archive -

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Don W

19698 posts in 3419 days


#7 posted 03-13-2018 01:08 PM

Here is the one from my #62. It’s the same thread as a Bailey bench plane which are 12-20

Typically just running a 1/4-20 tap and making a new bolt will work, but there are many ways to skin this cat.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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mikey78

37 posts in 1359 days


#8 posted 03-13-2018 02:54 PM

Thankyou very much Don for helping !!!

Uhmmmmmm …
Before I keep asking about taps and dies I see in your picture something I really need to understand :
I’ve never seen/noticed a stanley plane tote coming with that style bolt !!!
I’ve a 62 from the SW era, the blade has got the 2nd SW logo (1922-1935),
my plane (as you can see from the 1st picture) hasn’t got the headed bolt, but the more common brass/steel combo used on the bench planes ….
Is your 62 older than mine ? Is it more recent ? or is just that I’ve the wrong combo ?
This information is very important to me because I like restoring tools to their original conditions,
( I’m a bit collector a bit user ) and I could not sleep at night if I had a fake on my 62 …
Please guys let me know, I’m Italian and do not have chance to go to antique shops/markets to make research on the field, I fully rely on your knowledge !!!

View Don W's profile

Don W

19698 posts in 3419 days


#9 posted 03-13-2018 03:58 PM

The #62 isn’t nearly as abundant as their bench planes, so I can’t say I’ve worked on a bunch of them, but both mine and Smitty’s have the similar bolt. It will take a bit more research to know for sure.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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CaptainKlutz

3601 posts in 2346 days


#10 posted 03-13-2018 04:08 PM

If you insist on braze and re-tap fix:

A few years ago there was a tool galoot selling 12-20 tap & die to help with Stanley repairs on eBay.
Can not find them now. :(

But Dr Google tells me you can get custom pitch 12-20 tap from Victor?
Do not see a bottom plug tap offered by Victor, and that is what you need to fully clean up shallow threads in cast iron bases. So be sure to order an extra and grind the tip down slightly to make your own bottom tap. :)

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

View Don W's profile

Don W

19698 posts in 3419 days


#11 posted 03-13-2018 04:14 PM

I get mine from Victor. Buy 2 and grind the end to make a bottom tap.

Before I brazed it, I would just solder the bolt in place. But again, just another way to skin the cat, and of course that would only work with the nut end kind.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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mikey78

37 posts in 1359 days


#12 posted 03-14-2018 02:49 PM

Thanks to Don and CaptainKlutz for pointing out Victor as a source for a 12-20 tap,
I’ve sent a mail and shipping for a couple of taps it’s quite expensive , 42$ delivered to italy plus 21$ for 2 taps .
I’ll see if I can find some in Europe.
In the meantime I’ll send a mail to Patrick Leach and see what he knows about 62 and tote bolts.


Before I brazed it, I would just solder the bolt in place.
- Don W

Just because of the different lenguage could you explain it (“solder”) better ?
Thanks !!!

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bbasiaga

1243 posts in 2847 days


#13 posted 03-14-2018 03:49 PM

Solder is to melt a low temperature metal and use it to connect to things together. Like you would do to connect two electricl wires, or connect copper pipes.

Unlike welding the metals aren’t melted together. The flowable metal just takes up the the open space and when it solidifies everything is locked in place.

Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View Don W's profile

Don W

19698 posts in 3419 days


#14 posted 03-14-2018 07:26 PM



Solder is to melt a low temperature metal and use it to connect to things together. Like you would do to connect two electricl wires, or connect copper pipes.

Unlike welding the metals aren t melted together. The flowable metal just takes up the the open space and when it solidifies everything is locked in place.

Brian

- bbasiaga

Which requires a lot less heat and less chance of warping your plane.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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mikey78

37 posts in 1359 days


#15 posted 03-22-2018 09:41 AM

I still did not get any reply from the mail sent to Patrick Leach … and am just wondering if the address I have is still good …

View Don W's profile

Don W

19698 posts in 3419 days


#16 posted 03-22-2018 04:03 PM



I still did not get any reply from the mail sent to Patrick Leach … and am just wondering if the address I have is still good …

- mikey78

[email protected]

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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mikey78

37 posts in 1359 days


#17 posted 04-04-2018 05:33 AM

Still no reply from Mr Leach … he probably missed my message, I’ll try once again !!!
Anyway I managed to get a tap and die set from st. james bay tool (not the best experience ever ).
I’ll try to clean the bottom of the hole and see if I can add a few threads . . .
I’ll keep you updated !!!

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mikey78

37 posts in 1359 days


#18 posted 03-11-2019 01:13 PM

Goodmorning Guys !!!
While I’m sorry because I’ve not yet restored my plane
(too many projects on the way),
I wanted to give an update about the “bolt thing” ....
Do you remember we debating about which was the correct bolt style for this plane ?
I have not found any definitive answer for the question but,
from what I have seen on the many handplanes being sold on ebay,
I become more and more convinced that Stanley adopted two different solutions
for keeping in place a tote on a Stanley 62 …..
My theory says that Stanley commonly adopted a headed bolt for holder 62 benchplanes,
than, we don’t exactly know when, a new style bolt was introduced
and it was the brass/steel combo !!!
I’d say it was introduced in the SW era
because I’ve found some evidence of it being used on benchplanes with both the first and second SW logo :
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/stanley-62-low-angle-jack-plane-1815122700
here is an example of it on an early SW plane ….
And I found the combo also on my plane wich has the later SW logo stamped on the blade .
Not a lot of information around but certainly something to think about
when restoring this kind of planes !!!

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WayneC

14359 posts in 4949 days


#19 posted 03-11-2019 03:38 PM

I think mine had the same bold as Don and Smitty’s. To me they are a bit of a fragile plane. I had both the LN and the Stanley. I ended selling the Stanley a few years ago.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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OSU55

2658 posts in 2841 days


#20 posted 03-11-2019 08:11 PM

St James Bay tool co has 12-20 taps link to ebay store: https://www.ebay.com/str/the-st-james-bay-tool-co

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BlasterStumps

1792 posts in 1291 days


#21 posted 03-11-2019 10:00 PM

Since I have a plane with a stripped out screw hole as well, I have been wondering about using something like JB Weld and then after it sets for a bit, push it in just a bit below the surface of the hole with something pointed but about the same size as the threaded hole so I can easily find the center later with a drill bit. Then after it has set for a couple days, drill and tap it. Dumb idea?

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." MIke in CO

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WayneC

14359 posts in 4949 days


#22 posted 03-11-2019 10:11 PM

The victor tap and die may be less expensive.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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Don W

19698 posts in 3419 days


#23 posted 03-11-2019 11:45 PM



The victor tap and die may be less expensive.

- WayneC

I agree.

Blaster, I tried the jbweld and it didn’t work. It will probably depend though so there is no harm in trying. I wound up drill and tapping for 1\4 20 and making a bolt

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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mikey78

37 posts in 1359 days


#24 posted 03-13-2019 08:02 AM

I’m thinking of two more permanent solutions :

1) Filling the hole up by silver brazing it than drill and tap again .
2) Drilling a larger hole, tapping and insert a screw, cutting the screw flush with the surrounding area as it was just a plug , than drill again the center of the screw and tap for the original bolt size (basically this way I’m making a threded insert )

What do you think ? pros cons ?

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mikey78

37 posts in 1359 days


#25 posted 03-21-2019 04:10 PM

Some more evidence of the brass/steel combo used on SW planes :

Again a SW 62 (1st or 2nd SW logo)

The tote bolt is clearly made by brass …

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mikey78

37 posts in 1359 days


#26 posted 03-21-2019 04:18 PM

In this SW plane, both bolts are made by one solid piece of steel :

Despite this last example, from what I’ve seen,
the brass/steel combo looks predominant in the later planes,
while the steel bolt is rather widespread on the earlyer planes !!!

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mikey78

37 posts in 1359 days


#27 posted 03-21-2019 04:21 PM

In this video the guy is “working” on a SW model with my same (brass/stell combo) configuration :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nESAoucVSFg

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