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View msinc's profile

Homemade wood filler???

by msinc
posted 02-12-2018 02:13 AM


25 replies so far

View Ripper70's profile

Ripper70

1325 posts in 1413 days


#1 posted 02-12-2018 02:23 AM

For filling knot holes, I’d use 5 minute epoxy mixed with the sawdust. As for wood filler, dunno.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

5974 posts in 2914 days


#2 posted 02-12-2018 02:35 AM

My Grandfather used very fine wood dust of same species and hide glue.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View msinc's profile

msinc

567 posts in 1008 days


#3 posted 02-12-2018 02:37 AM

Isn’t hide glue the stuff you get as powder and you add water and boil it? Never really messed with it other than to read about it in a book. Is there a working time? I thought about the 5 minute epoxy clear stuff and just mix in some saw dust. Thanks fellas for the replies so far!!!!!

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

8569 posts in 2655 days


#4 posted 02-12-2018 02:39 AM



Isn t hide glue the stuff you get as powder and you add water and boil it? Never really messed with it other than to read about it in a book. Is there a working time? I thought about the 5 minute epoxy clear stuff and just mix in some saw dust. Thanks fellas for the replies so far!!!!!

- msinc

Also comes in a tube like normal wood glue. Just takes a lot longer to set up. Titebond makes liquid hide glue, and there’s also Old Brown Glue.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View msinc's profile

msinc

567 posts in 1008 days


#5 posted 02-12-2018 02:51 AM


Isn t hide glue the stuff you get as powder and you add water and boil it? Never really messed with it other than to read about it in a book. Is there a working time? I thought about the 5 minute epoxy clear stuff and just mix in some saw dust. Thanks fellas for the replies so far!!!!!

- msinc

Also comes in a tube like normal wood glue. Just takes a lot longer to set up. Titebond makes liquid hide glue, and there s also Old Brown Glue.

- jmartel

Thank you sir, I will check those out!!

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

4951 posts in 1094 days


#6 posted 02-12-2018 05:02 AM

Don’t boil hide glue! Just sayin’.

There are countless ways to do what you want, and no one technique is likely best for all of them. You can fill small cracks with things like sawdust mixed with white glue, you can sprinkle sawdust into the crack, rub it in firmly, and run thin CA glue along it. You can use a product like Timbermate, or the epoxy mentioned earlier. Larger cracks will do best with materials like epoxy putty, epoxy or Timbermate.

For knots, it really depends on the situation. If they are solid and not loose, don’t do anything, although you might need to seal them when you go to finish. If they are loose, a good low-viscosity (probably not a quality of the 5-minute stuff) epoxy will get into the nooks and crannies. You might want to add pigment, but any sawdust will thicken it and make it less likely to get down in there and fix the knot in place. Also, some clear packing tape on the back of the board to keep it from flowing out the bottom is a good idea.

Regarding nail holes. I never have them, but something like Timbermate would do the job.

There are also a huge variety of options to apply after the piece is finished. Various fills — wax fill, hard fill — the list is a long one and the choice depends a lot on how the piece will be used. You wouldn’t use a wax fill on a table top for instance.

I could go on, and others will surely offer even more ideas. It’s one of those things that’s good to have some practice with and a big bag of tricks.

-- Dopeler Effect: The tendency of stupid ideas to sound smarter the faster they come at you.

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

5974 posts in 2914 days


#7 posted 02-12-2018 05:21 AM

I agree with Rich, one should have several different methods of dealing with imperfections. When I made my circle cutting jig the plywood had some wicked knot. Rather than toss it I drilled out the hole and turned a plug on the lathe and glued it in. Below is picture. Took out the offending knot but let the character of the spiral and such in place and set it off with a piece of mahogany. Now if you are painting then any filler or even automotive filler Bondo works well. I generally do not paint but my current project is being painted, sacrilege I know. Hopefully I will be forgiven once the overall project is posted and my reason for the paint is explained.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

4951 posts in 1094 days


#8 posted 02-12-2018 05:32 AM


Rather than toss it I drilled out the hole and turned a plug on the lathe and glued it in.

- woodbutcherbynight

Nice jig. I’d have probably filled it after drilling with epoxy putty. That’s just me though, not a better or worse solution. That’s kind of the theme here. There are lots of ways to skin a cat, and every situation will have multiple options that all do the trick. A lot comes down to what you’re comfortable doing (I don’t have a lathe, so turning a plug would be difficult), and what things you have on hand. There are lots of fixes I did in the past that I’ve learned better ways of doing today, and I’m sure I’ll find new and better ways in the future.

-- Dopeler Effect: The tendency of stupid ideas to sound smarter the faster they come at you.

View msinc's profile

msinc

567 posts in 1008 days


#9 posted 02-12-2018 01:17 PM

Thanks for the replies and info fellas, it is greatly appreciated!!! Food for thought has been the solution to many a problem.

View Walker's profile

Walker

160 posts in 977 days


#10 posted 02-12-2018 05:22 PM

For small things to be filled I’ve had success with just sawdust and Titebond wood glue. For example filling in around inlays.

-- ~Walker

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

2902 posts in 1727 days


#11 posted 02-12-2018 07:04 PM

My grand dad would just make lots of airborne dust from the desired wood, breath deeply through his nose, then use the sawdust saturated boogers to fill the holes.

Just kidding 8^)

I’m in the mix dust with glue camp. One needs to watch the color of the glue used, standard yellow glue will change the color pos the wood dust used. Clear epoxy works well but will not absorb finishes well.

I’ve found that if possible, add some off the finish to the dust when mixing with epoxy/glue, it really helps getting the final color matched.

View PPK's profile

PPK

1521 posts in 1314 days


#12 posted 02-12-2018 10:29 PM



My grand dad would just make lots of airborne dust from the desired wood, breath deeply through his nose, then use the sawdust saturated boogers to fill the holes.

Just kidding 8^)

- splintergroup

I got a really good laugh outa this…

-- Pete

View alittleoff's profile

alittleoff

541 posts in 1781 days


#13 posted 02-12-2018 11:58 PM

I try and save different colors of wood when I’m sanding it. I keep it labeled in small plastic containers. When I need a filler I use the wood dust that came from the same kind or wood and mix other colors to it if I need to lighten it up or get it a little darker. I usually use titebond 3, seems to work well for me. It’s really hard to match wood perfectly, but if you fool around a little you can get real close.
Gerald

View msinc's profile

msinc

567 posts in 1008 days


#14 posted 02-13-2018 12:42 AM

Thanks for all the replies. I will start cleaning out my band saw when I switch to a different wood from now on…you never know when you are going to need some filler. I don’t know why, but my band saw produces some seriously fine dust.

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

4951 posts in 1094 days


#15 posted 02-13-2018 12:49 AM


Thanks for all the replies. I will start cleaning out my band saw when I switch to a different wood from now on…you never know when you are going to need some filler. I don t know why, but my band saw produces some seriously fine dust.

- msinc

If you want to go that direction, this spice grinder does a good job of producing very fine dust. I dedicated one to wood dust, although, like I said earlier, I don’t do the wood dust fills much anymore. There are many other techniques with far better results.

https://www.amazon.com/KRUPS-Electric-Grinder-Stainless-3-Ounce/dp/B00004SPEU

-- Dopeler Effect: The tendency of stupid ideas to sound smarter the faster they come at you.

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1404 days


#16 posted 02-13-2018 01:44 AM

I use Mohawk sawdust pencils.
They come with an epoxy mix tube that pre mixes as you inject the mixture from the dispersing pencil.
After drying, they have a fine pinstripe type brush that helps pull grain across the fill making it virtually invisible.
Love Mohawk products. ;>)

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

5974 posts in 2914 days


#17 posted 02-13-2018 02:57 AM



I use Mohawk sawdust pencils.
They come with an epoxy mix tube that pre mixes as you inject the mixture from the dispersing pencil.
After drying, they have a fine pinstripe type brush that helps pull grain across the fill making it virtually invisible.
Love Mohawk products. ;>)

- jbay

Interesting, had no idea they even made something like this. Have to try some now. Thanks for the tip!

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1404 days


#18 posted 02-13-2018 03:54 AM

Umm….
I was really….ugh,...well, hmmm.

Help me out Rich!

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

4951 posts in 1094 days


#19 posted 02-13-2018 04:04 AM


I use Mohawk sawdust pencils. They come with an epoxy mix tube that pre mixes as you inject the mixture from the dispersing pencil.
After drying, they have a fine pinstripe type brush that helps pull grain across the fill making it virtually invisible.

- jbay

Mohawk sawdust pencils are the best! I bought the cordless 12V epoxy mix tube. I strongly recommend it if you do a lot of this type of work.

Also, the graining markers are ideal to use while you listen to Jimmy Buffet.

-- Dopeler Effect: The tendency of stupid ideas to sound smarter the faster they come at you.

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

5974 posts in 2914 days


#20 posted 02-13-2018 04:40 AM

Rich stop sniffing the markers. That’s why I have to show I.D. when I go to the borg for glue, spray paint, etc etc.

LOL

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2741 posts in 3427 days


#21 posted 02-13-2018 01:22 PM

I use a lot of homemade filler. I mix sanding dust (not sawdust, too coarse) and white glue to the thickness of mayonnaise and apply using an old gift card as a squeegee. to fill small cracks. Sand well after it dries. Any glue will work but all other glues will darken the filler a lot. White glue does not. White glue is not water resistant, nor is liquid hide glue from titebond. Loose knots or large voids require epoxy mixed with the sanding dust. I use a finishing epoxy called “Z POXY” it is quite thin and takes 12 hours to set up.

-- No PHD just a DD214

View LesB's profile

LesB

2200 posts in 3948 days


#22 posted 02-13-2018 06:38 PM

For small voids or knots I use sawdust and thick super glue. Pack the void with the sawdust then add the glue. To accelerate the absorption of the thick super glue I first put thin super glue on it and immediately add the thick glue until no more sinks in.
One good way to get very fine sawdust is from the dust collector bag on a belt or orbital sander. I save this sawdust in plastic jars marked by the species.

Another patch is to use a router and a template guide to make patches…the same way you would make a butterfly patch to pull a crack together, only create a less conspicuous shape like an oval from a piece of wood with the same grain pattern. If done carefully the patch will almost disappear. You see a crude version of this in CDX plywood.

-- Les B, Oregon

View msinc's profile

msinc

567 posts in 1008 days


#23 posted 02-13-2018 09:47 PM

Thanks again for all the tips…I am keeping notes on all of these so I can refer back to them in the future. This post and the resulting thread has definitely been a learning experience!!!

View Jeff Bremer's profile

Jeff Bremer

14 posts in 601 days


#24 posted 02-21-2018 06:23 AM

I use shellac.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2741 posts in 3427 days


#25 posted 02-21-2018 01:04 PM



I use shellac.

- Jeff Bremer


Interesting…. Do you use sanding dust mixed with the shellac?

-- No PHD just a DD214

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