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Roubo Bench - Lumber size options

by JP4LSU
posted 02-07-2018 01:05 PM


3 replies so far

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1243 posts in 2535 days


#1 posted 02-07-2018 01:34 PM

If it’s already surfaced there isn’t much more work. Just more glue. For me , shop furniture, even my bench, haven’t really been about aesthetics. That said I am not sure it will look bad.

Some people argue for softer wood for their bench. That way the bench gives before the project does if you drop something. Your call on that.

Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View Robert's profile

Robert

3555 posts in 2021 days


#2 posted 02-07-2018 02:21 PM

1×4’s is just more glue and more work. There is no reason you can’t do that.

Personally, I like a hard wood top so I would go with hard maple.

Be sure to sticker and let the wood acclimate in your shop a month or so before beginning. Even if its kiln dried, I recommend doing this.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View JP4LSU's profile

JP4LSU

87 posts in 687 days


#3 posted 02-07-2018 09:36 PM

Thanks Brian. the only thing I don’t want to happen in the appearance is a lot of color variation every 1”. But that really shouldn’t be a problem I guess if using consistent coloring of woods like maple, white oak, beech.

I’ve heard arguments of using softer woods for a top that is softer than the wood you are building furniture with. I’m not too worried about that. I’ll probably get what I can get my hands on for the cheapest. Likely end up being SYP. Unless I can get some soft maple for a good deal.

rwe2156, yes you are correct. Good advice for laminating thinner stock.
Thanks,
JP

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