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View BoilerUp21's profile

Harbor Freight DC Motor Issue?

by BoilerUp21
posted 02-06-2018 01:43 AM


28 replies so far

View caboxmaker's profile

caboxmaker

280 posts in 929 days


#1 posted 02-06-2018 01:57 AM

Maybe HF is the problem…

View BoilerUp21's profile

BoilerUp21

146 posts in 1308 days


#2 posted 02-06-2018 02:04 AM

Well that is a good point, but not the help i was looking for…


Maybe HF is the problem…

- caboxmaker


View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 2027 days


#3 posted 02-06-2018 02:05 AM

Sounds like capacitor.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View DIYaholic's profile

DIYaholic

19878 posts in 3216 days


#4 posted 02-06-2018 02:24 AM



Sounds like capacitor.

- TheFridge

+1

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procrastination a bad thing?

View BoilerUp21's profile

BoilerUp21

146 posts in 1308 days


#5 posted 02-06-2018 02:32 AM

thanks guys. I have done some reading on other similar issues and i believe it is the capacitor as well. Any idea on how to get a replacement or where to get one?

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

5415 posts in 2850 days


#6 posted 02-06-2018 02:40 AM



Sounds like capacitor.

- TheFridge

I think you’re right. Being HF I doubt the used the “good” Alder.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View IantheTinker's profile

IantheTinker

285 posts in 668 days


#7 posted 02-06-2018 02:46 AM

Have you tried grainger.com? It is a motor parts website, might be worth a shot.

Also, the problem is not that it is from Harbor Freight, their dust collector is one of their gems. Overall the store isn’t all that bad, just gotta figure out what’s worth it and what isn’t, just like any other store.

-- pensivewoodworker.com

View BoilerUp21's profile

BoilerUp21

146 posts in 1308 days


#8 posted 02-06-2018 02:59 AM

Thanks. I just ordered DAYTON Round Motor Start Capacitor,400-480 Microfarad Rating,110-125VAC Voltage from Grainger and will see if this solves the problem. Appreciate it.


Have you tried grainger.com? It is a motor parts website, might be worth a shot.

Also, the problem is not that it is from Harbor Freight, their dust collector is one of their gems. Overall the store isn’t all that bad, just gotta figure out what’s worth it and what isn’t, just like any other store.

- IantheTinker

View IantheTinker's profile

IantheTinker

285 posts in 668 days


#9 posted 02-06-2018 03:38 AM



Thanks. I just ordered DAYTON Round Motor Start Capacitor,400-480 Microfarad Rating,110-125VAC Voltage from Grainger and will see if this solves the problem. Appreciate it.

- BoilerUp21

No problem, glad I could help. I hope it works out for you, a shop without DC can be rough.

-- pensivewoodworker.com

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

5415 posts in 2850 days


#10 posted 02-06-2018 03:46 AM

Thanks. I just ordered DAYTON Round Motor Start Capacitor,400-480 Microfarad Rating,110-125VAC Voltage from Grainger and will see if this solves the problem. Appreciate it.

- BoilerUp21

That was quick, hopefully that’s the fix.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View William Shelley's profile

William Shelley

609 posts in 2010 days


#11 posted 02-06-2018 03:46 AM



Thanks. I just ordered DAYTON Round Motor Start Capacitor,400-480 Microfarad Rating,110-125VAC Voltage from Grainger and will see if this solves the problem. Appreciate it.

Have you tried grainger.com? It is a motor parts website, might be worth a shot.

Also, the problem is not that it is from Harbor Freight, their dust collector is one of their gems. Overall the store isn’t all that bad, just gotta figure out what’s worth it and what isn’t, just like any other store.

- IantheTinker

- BoilerUp21

Careful, the capacitor needs to be rated for 250 or 370VAC usually. 480uf seems awfully large for a 2HP motor.

-- Woodworking from an engineer's perspective

View crank49's profile

crank49

4032 posts in 3512 days


#12 posted 02-06-2018 06:03 AM

While we’re at it, this is a good learning opportunity.
A filter being clogged would NOT increase the load on the motor.
Exactly the opposite.

View skipj's profile

skipj

97 posts in 2813 days


#13 posted 02-06-2018 12:16 PM

When this happened to my HF motor I replaced the capactor, It’s not the problem.
On mine the bearing on the fan end of the motor was almost frozen.Replaced it and now works great.
I think the bearing was about $12..Time consuming but a easey fix.

I think i still have the old bearing and the package the new bearing came in.If you need the bearing number
and wher i got it let me know. Replace the CAP first, thats easey.

Not the motor fan end,The impeller end.

View BoilerUp21's profile

BoilerUp21

146 posts in 1308 days


#14 posted 02-06-2018 12:59 PM

The one that comes out of the HF is listed as 125V.AC

Thanks. I just ordered DAYTON Round Motor Start Capacitor,400-480 Microfarad Rating,110-125VAC Voltage from Grainger and will see if this solves the problem. Appreciate it.

Have you tried grainger.com? It is a motor parts website, might be worth a shot.

Also, the problem is not that it is from Harbor Freight, their dust collector is one of their gems. Overall the store isn’t all that bad, just gotta figure out what’s worth it and what isn’t, just like any other store.

- IantheTinker

- BoilerUp21

Careful, the capacitor needs to be rated for 250 or 370VAC usually. 480uf seems awfully large for a 2HP motor.

- William Shelley


View BoilerUp21's profile

BoilerUp21

146 posts in 1308 days


#15 posted 02-06-2018 01:00 PM

Any idea where/what size you ordered?


When this happened to my HF motor I replaced the capactor, It s not the problem.
On mine the bearing on the fan end of the motor was almost frozen.Replaced it and now works great.
I think the bearing was about $12..Time consuming but a easey fix.

I think i still have the old bearing and the package the new bearing came in.If you need the bearing number
and wher i got it let me know. Replace the CAP first, thats easey.

Not the motor fan end,The impeller end.

- skipj


View skipj's profile

skipj

97 posts in 2813 days


#16 posted 02-06-2018 01:04 PM

I’ll let you know later,not at the shop. Did you try the CAP.

View skipj's profile

skipj

97 posts in 2813 days


#17 posted 02-06-2018 01:05 PM

I’ll let you know later,not at the shop. Did you try the CAP.

View BoilerUp21's profile

BoilerUp21

146 posts in 1308 days


#18 posted 02-06-2018 01:14 PM

Picking up capacitor tomorrow after work and will let you know if this does not solve the problem…Hoping its not the bearing and I don’t have to take the thing apart, as it is mounted to the wall…fingers crossed


I ll let you know later,not at the shop. Did you try the CAP.

- skipj


View Carl10's profile

Carl10

115 posts in 997 days


#19 posted 02-06-2018 02:22 PM

BoilerUp21,
What equipment did you use to determine the unit was running 10% slow? And then to notice it was 10% slower again? Are you looking at motor speed or airflow? Did you also do the Impeller upgrade?

Do you have ducting run? Some people try and add too big and long of duct runs with too little suction and can get duct clogs and or build up in the ducts reducing performance. Have you tried removing the ducting from the blower (if you have it) to see if the suction increases?

As mentioned above it could be a capacitor, a bearing (you can check that by spinning the impeller by hand) or it could be your start cap switch stuck.

Hope that helps. Let us know what you find.

Carl

View BoilerUp21's profile

BoilerUp21

146 posts in 1308 days


#20 posted 02-08-2018 01:14 AM

Well my saga continues…

Picked up capacitor and hooked it up, flipped the switch and instead of a rumbling as before (at least sounded like it was spinning), i was greeted only with a buzzing sound. Switched back to the old HF capacitor and…same buzzing sound.

Switched back to the New capacitor, took the fan guard off, spun the fan by hand to confirm nothing was locked up. Spun the fan with my hand and quickly flipped the switch…it struggled but actually got up to speed and was running for 5 minutes.

I figured the capacitor just needed to get some juice while the motor was running and then would work from then on? WRONG.

put the fan cover on and flipped the switch, but the breaker had somehow tripped when i shut the DC down after it ran for 5 min…

flipped the breaker back and then flipped the switch on, only to be greeted by the buzzing sound again. tried multiple times to spin by hand and switch on, but each time the breaker tripped before it could get up to speed…

Any thoughts on what the real problem may be?


Picking up capacitor tomorrow after work and will let you know if this does not solve the problem…Hoping its not the bearing and I don t have to take the thing apart, as it is mounted to the wall…fingers crossed

I ll let you know later,not at the shop. Did you try the CAP.

- skipj

- BoilerUp21

View Mike_in_STL's profile

Mike_in_STL

1057 posts in 1075 days


#21 posted 02-08-2018 04:14 AM

I’d junk the motor and find a replacement. You might be throwing good money at bad luck. I’ve got a Central Machinery DC too, mine has a build date of 1992, and the data on the unit has no capacitor specs. Kinda sounds like a start cap, but if it won’t spin after you hand spin it, it could also be the run cap. You could also have a dead spot on the rotor or in the stator, but unless you do a full tear down you won’t know.

Good luck, keep us posted.

-- Sawdust makes me whole --Mike in STL

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

1183 posts in 2102 days


#22 posted 02-08-2018 03:55 PM

Is the centrifugal switch that engages the capacitor stuck open? Turning the motor by hand will help the motor start because the capacitor is not engaged. Normally the centrifugal switch is closed on startup and once the motor spins up to speed the switch opens and disconnects the capacitor and when the motor spins down from being turned off you’ll hear a noticeable click when the switch engages.

View BoilerUp21's profile

BoilerUp21

146 posts in 1308 days


#23 posted 02-08-2018 06:26 PM

It could be stuck open…I have not resorted to taking the motor apart yet, and that would be the next step I guess? I have read that the centrifugal switch is often the problem in this case and may need to be lubricated if it is getting stuck open…


Is the centrifugal switch that engages the capacitor stuck open? Turning the motor by hand will help the motor start because the capacitor is not engaged. Normally the centrifugal switch is closed on startup and once the motor spins up to speed the switch opens and disconnects the capacitor and when the motor spins down from being turned off you ll hear a noticeable click when the switch engages.

- WhyMe


View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

7504 posts in 2740 days


#24 posted 02-08-2018 07:30 PM

It could be stuck open…I have not resorted to taking the motor apart yet, and that would be the next step I guess? I have read that the centrifugal switch is often the problem in this case and may need to be lubricated if it is getting stuck open…
- BoilerUp21

Could need lubrication, or could have some sawdust or other crap stuck between the contacts, or could have a broken spring or other part, or might have a loose wire, or….

No telling until you open it up and look. Fortunately, it’s a pretty easy thing to do and no special tools are required.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

12927 posts in 2921 days


#25 posted 02-08-2018 08:28 PM

Or take it to a motor shop. By the time you buy a bunch of parts and invest days working on it, a professional might be cheaper.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View BoilerUp21's profile

BoilerUp21

146 posts in 1308 days


#26 posted 02-09-2018 02:44 AM

Took the motor apart, and found the problem. Centrifugal switch was not making contact (aka open) and the cause of the humming sound.

Grizzly has a great video on this and many issues related to troubleshooting motors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-j6PhthXJY

I had to bend the circular spring so that the contacts would be touching (aka closed) when the motor was off.

Thanks all.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 2027 days


#27 posted 02-09-2018 02:53 AM

If a single phase motor doesn’t have smoke coming out of it then it probably can be fixed.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

7505 posts in 3908 days


#28 posted 02-09-2018 04:29 AM

If Grainger doesn’t have it …... !
They have nearly anything for maintenance and repair!
I found brushes for my 30+ year old Filter Queen vacuum, and, about 30% of the factory cost.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

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