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View weasel1983's profile

Hollow Body Guitar Kit Finishing Queeries

by weasel1983
posted 02-01-2018 02:27 PM


7 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

8277 posts in 3735 days


#1 posted 02-01-2018 09:40 PM

I’m far from an expert, but when I inquired about guitar finishes, I was told adamantly by some savvy seasoned veterans that nitrocellulose lacquer is the finish of choice.

That’s a beauty BTW.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

1308 posts in 2312 days


#2 posted 02-01-2018 10:05 PM

I have never heard of using mineral oil as a guitar finish. You are correct that where it is used it requires occasional reapplication. It is a non drying finish and doesn’t provide much protection for the wood. Mineral oil is most often used for items like cutting boards that come into contact with food. The oil will soak into the wood and will soak back out and onto your shirt on contact.

Are you perhaps thinking of a finish using some other oil with wet sanding?

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2243 posts in 2349 days


#3 posted 02-01-2018 10:25 PM

You state you want to trend to the “blue” or clear color spectrum and not the “yellow” side. Forget any solvent finish, including NC lacquer – it yellows with time. To my knowledge there are no water clear solvent finishes, possibly some automotive clears that I dont think you want to mess with due to the volatiles. You will need a water borne product. Check out Target Coatings, I know luthiers use the em6000 lacquer and em9000 poly. Both are water clear and stay that way. I use these products but on furniture not instruments. They can be brushed but should be sprayed. WB does not work well at all as a wipe on.

I do not consider anything the doesnt dry, like mineral oil, or any wax, a finish. They are treatments, requiring constant attention.

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 4007 days


#4 posted 02-01-2018 10:26 PM

I’ve seen oil finishes on guitars in shops.

I’ve assumed it was a linseed oil or tung oil
sort of thing.

View Sloboy's profile

Sloboy

6 posts in 576 days


#5 posted 02-01-2018 10:35 PM

I’m sure your google search turned this up:
http://acousticmusic.org/research/guitar-information/guitar-finishes/

I have read (because I dream to make one someday) that the finish on a guitar, especially one that is acoustic can dramatically change the tone. I wouldn’t think that it would affect electric guitars as much, but a hollow body is kind of hybrid. I would also ask on luthier forums to be sure that you get out of it what you intend. Beautiful work you did.

View weasel1983's profile

weasel1983

2 posts in 474 days


#6 posted 02-02-2018 02:06 AM

Thanks for the feedback.

Here’s a little more background. I will be finishing in linseed oil in about a year. But I am putting that off for a reason.

I am trying to speed wear the antiquing without being too violent with it, you know without over sanding road-wear into it. If it makes sense, I want it to look a little worn out when I do final oil it. So the idea of this fish is temporary and not the final process.

View Walker's profile

Walker

158 posts in 831 days


#7 posted 02-02-2018 03:54 AM

Here’s an article I found on how to relic a guitar, aka how to age it. It looks like the started with the common nitrocellulose finish, wiped some off using naptha, and a few other tricks. It’s also widely known that most guitar stands will eventually damage a nitro finish because it reacts poorly with the foam/rubber, so that might be somewhere to start. Google “how to relic a guitar”, gets a lot of results.

http://www.tdpri.com/wp-tdpri/resources/how-to-relic-your-guitar/

You could always go to your local guitar center, ask them if they’ll leave it on the display floor for a week. After a week of every grubby little 14 year old in your town playing smoke on the water on it, it will look weathered!

-- ~Walker

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