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View EdsCustomWoodCrafts's profile

Chamfering End Grain

by EdsCustomWoodCrafts
posted 02-01-2018 06:23 AM


11 replies so far

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

951 posts in 1806 days


#1 posted 02-01-2018 06:53 AM

I suppose you could carefully pare some chamfers with a sharp chisel, or run the pieces on a tablesaw sled with the blade at a 45* angle, but really, a small plane is the ideal tool for this job. Time to tune up that not-in-working-condition plane!

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

View jdh122's profile

jdh122

1072 posts in 3182 days


#2 posted 02-01-2018 11:25 AM

It’s possible with a very sharp chisel. If I had to do it without using a plane I’d probably use a v-groove bit in the router table.

-- Jeremy, in the Acadian forests

View Ron Aylor's profile

Ron Aylor

2649 posts in 1012 days


#3 posted 02-01-2018 12:09 PM

Do you have a flat file? I chamfer through tenons with a flat file. The file alleviates tear-out. It takes patience, but it works!

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

1147 posts in 956 days


#4 posted 02-01-2018 01:06 PM

Do you have a sander or at least some sand paper ?

View LittleShaver's profile

LittleShaver

527 posts in 984 days


#5 posted 02-01-2018 01:13 PM

Sandpaper on a block works. With oak I’d start at 80 grit.

-- Sawdust Maker

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

5371 posts in 2715 days


#6 posted 02-01-2018 01:16 PM

Sand paper and a block would be your best bet. My preferred method would be with a block plane, but sandpaper backed with a block of wood would be my second choice.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

5694 posts in 2085 days


#7 posted 02-01-2018 01:21 PM

If you have a tenoning jig for the table saw, that could work well for chamfering the cheeks, especially if you’re creating a large chamfer. Otherwise a sanding block or powered sander with a stiff pad would be your best bet.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1243 posts in 2359 days


#8 posted 02-01-2018 01:44 PM

If you use your chisel, just make sure to start by cutting the back end of the cut. This will avoid speltching. It’s not hard to do with a sharp chisel. If you use a plane it is a good thing to do as well.

To be .more clear, if you are working on the ten on from right to left, come in from the left and pare off a bit of the chamber at the end first, then do the rest right to left. Otherwise it will have the risk of blowing out the left end when you get there. Same is true if planing.

Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View Robert's profile

Robert

3374 posts in 1845 days


#9 posted 02-01-2018 04:56 PM

A ww’er without a hand plane is like, like …...... like a pitcher without a rosin bag….... You’ll never get a grip on your ww’ing without one :-)

Seriously, I’m pretty dexterous, but some of the worst cuts I’ve gotten is chamfering edge grain with a chisel.

Ed—glue a piece of 100 and a piece of 300 grit on a some wood and this works great.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View gargey's profile

gargey

1013 posts in 1140 days


#10 posted 02-01-2018 05:04 PM

Great time to buy a little block plane like an LN 60 1/2. If you do wood, you’ll use it for the rest of your life.

View HTown's profile

HTown

114 posts in 1550 days


#11 posted 02-02-2018 07:13 AM

Sharp chisel at a skew working in light passes down to layout lines. If you need, cut a board on a 45 and clamp it to the tenon before you glue it up, then use that as a guide for consistency. Good luck.

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