All Replies on Planing board edge leaves a bevel

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View EricLew's profile

Planing board edge leaves a bevel

by EricLew
posted 01-28-2018 12:47 AM

14 replies so far

View Loren's profile


10588 posts in 4499 days

#1 posted 01-28-2018 01:26 AM

I think it takes a lot of practice to learn
to shoot straight and square edges by
hand. I’ve used a long straight edge and
a pocket square to check when I’ve done it.

Shorter edges are easier. I once jointed
a 2” thick 8’ table top by hand and it took
awhile to get it right.

View Johnny7's profile


500 posts in 1941 days

#2 posted 01-28-2018 07:15 AM

a few thoughts—

Try this technique:
Wrap your hand around the rear handle (tote) in the conventional grip.
With your other hand, use the grip shown below—your knuckles bear against the face of the board creating a makeshift fence.

Also, for a self-described “newbie” the use of smoothing planes (your #4 and #4½) offer little registration area when jointing an edge. See if your 62 doesn’t offer better results.

View TheFridge's profile


10861 posts in 2337 days

#3 posted 01-28-2018 07:19 AM

I use an edge plane when I’m feeling saucy and then plane down til the shaving is continuous.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Don W's profile

Don W

19698 posts in 3418 days

#4 posted 01-28-2018 12:16 PM

Try putting several boards together to give a wider work surface and it reduces the amount of time to finish

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View LittleShaver's profile


689 posts in 1470 days

#5 posted 01-28-2018 12:55 PM

I tend to skew the plane a bit to keep things square. I can see the problem better with the plane acting as more of a winding stick.
Practice, practice, practice.

-- Sawdust Maker

View OSU55's profile


2658 posts in 2840 days

#6 posted 01-28-2018 01:14 PM

I cheat and use a jointer fence a lot of times. If jointing boards for a panel glue up, bookend the 2 edges and joint them at the same time. The amount of angle wont matter then, the will mate perfectly for the board thickness- still have to get them straight along the length.

View EricLew's profile


269 posts in 2217 days

#7 posted 01-28-2018 03:02 PM

Thanks guys, lots of good advice

-- I love the smell of coffee in the morning, and sawdust in the afternoon

View Tim's profile


3859 posts in 2812 days

#8 posted 01-29-2018 04:48 PM

Checking often with a square like Loren said and wrapping your fingers the way Johnny said are the basics. For me wrapping my fingers that way helped a little, but in the end it was just practice with a square until I got the muscle memory.

View Sylvain's profile


1075 posts in 3350 days

#9 posted 01-31-2018 10:11 AM

Have a look at this Mike Siemsen ’s video
He starts by showing how to make one edge straight and square.
He shows why using the plane on its edge will cut only on its other side (because the blade is narrower than the plane).
Paul Sellers’ Post “edge-planing-square-to-tilt-or-not-to-tilt”

-- Sylvain, Brussels, Belgium, Europe - The more I learn, the more there is to learn

View OpensideFlanker's profile


14 posts in 1159 days

#10 posted 01-31-2018 09:27 PM

If you’re joining edges, don’t worry too much about a bit of bevel, just book-match the two edges and plane them together. When you lay them out, the bevels are complimentary and the pieces glue up flat.

It is really hard to avoid a bevel on a single piece every time. Using a lower profile plane helps (harder to keep from tilting with my Ulmia 24” Jointer, which is a couple of inches thick) and the hand guide technique noted above helps. When you get the inevitable bevel, take it out with a smoother with a curved iron. It is a LOT easier than doing it by tilting a plane with a straight iron. For instance, if the left side of the edge is higher, set the curved-iron plane far to the left, so you are planing with the right side of the iron. A couple of shavings will level the bevel with much lower likelihood of overdoing it in the opposite direction (as can happen with the tilting-plane method).

View EricLew's profile


269 posts in 2217 days

#11 posted 02-01-2018 02:02 AM

great tips guys. thank you very much

-- I love the smell of coffee in the morning, and sawdust in the afternoon

View Ripper70's profile


1378 posts in 1759 days

#12 posted 02-01-2018 02:19 AM

This video is great from start to finish, but here it cuts to the chase regarding lateral adjustment of the blade and proper holding technique.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

View pintodeluxe's profile


6206 posts in 3664 days

#13 posted 02-01-2018 02:33 AM

When a hand plane produces an edge that isn’t square for me, it seems pretty logical. A jointer has a fence that is set to exactly 90 degrees, while a plane usually has no such reference.

Also consider the length of the plane sole compared to a power jointer. A fairly long hand plane is 12-16” long, but a medium sized jointer can be 76” long. That’s a whole lot longer reference surface to achieve a flat edge.

Opensideflanker’s comment above about jointing them in such a way that any angle created is accounted for… that’s what I do too. Usually with hand tools I’m not so much building something that is perfect, but rather building it so it looks good and the joints fit tight. Spring joints for example are not straight, but they close up well with glue.

Good luck with it. It can be a fun process.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Just_Iain's profile


330 posts in 1267 days

#14 posted 02-05-2018 03:22 PM

What about shooting it? Stack two pieces of straight material (plywood or MDF for example) that are longer than the board you want to plane with an offset of about 4”. Clamp the board down with a very small overhang on the top piece of straight material and then use your jointer plane on its side like you would a ‘shooting plane’.,41182,48945&ap=1

-- For those about to die, remember your bicycle helmet!

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