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View ppg677's profile

Bookcase with face frame

by ppg677
posted 01-24-2018 04:30 AM


24 replies so far

View wuddoc's profile

wuddoc

359 posts in 4604 days


#1 posted 01-24-2018 04:57 AM

Dowels, Biscuits, splines, locking miter.

One method is to use a veneer. You can purchase this material in various species. Some even have a pressure sensitive peel off backing while others use glue that melts when you apply an iron.

-- Wuddoc

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

6116 posts in 3195 days


#2 posted 01-24-2018 07:00 AM

How tall is it and how you going to finish it?

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Breeze73's profile

Breeze73

102 posts in 1567 days


#3 posted 01-24-2018 07:54 AM

No matter how you connect that corner, you will have a plywood edge visible. That is unless you do a 45 degree beveled edge (which I would not recommend). If the plywood edge is low enough to be seen, then I would recommend veneer edge banding the top of vertical edge prior to making the rabbet. Once the veneer is on, and trimmed, then you can use a dado blade to get the fit perfect for the 23/32” plywood top to fit within.

However, if the top will be higher than about 76” or so, then I wouldn’t worry about it.

-- Breeze

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

6116 posts in 3195 days


#4 posted 01-24-2018 08:02 AM

Put a top on it. It will hide the plywood edge and make the whole project more appealing to the eye, IMO
I don’t show it but I’d do something with the toe kick also.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

960 posts in 2327 days


#5 posted 01-24-2018 09:30 AM

Hi ppg677—- I like the drawing of the bookcase—- reminds me of one I saw on SMC. ;-)

I’m with AlaskaGuy on this—if the top will be visible, put a lid on it. Otherwise, ignore it.

Other options include:

running the sides up another couple inches, adding a back rail, and edgebanding the top edge of the ply.

running the top over the sides and adding a trim detail to cover the edges.

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

View John Smith's profile (online now)

John Smith

2735 posts in 1049 days


#6 posted 01-24-2018 02:08 PM

I do not have sketchup, but, on a cabinet like that, I would take a piece of 3/4” plywood
and attach a 1×2” board to the edge to it, making the top about 2”larger on the two sides and the front,
leaving the back flush with the cabinet.
rout the 3 edges with an Ogee or similar profile and turn it over with the routed edge on the bottom.
then apply a 3/4” 1/4 round shoe molding under it to make a very nice profile.
if the bookcase is under 5 feet tall, I would use solid lumber glued up for the top that will match the plywood case.
if you leave it just a Plane Box configuration – it will look like something you would buy at Ikea.
[and you don’t want that]

maybe someone that has sketchup can make a better rendering of what I am trying say.

.

-- there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks. --

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1785 days


#7 posted 01-24-2018 02:18 PM

This is a little more work, but it does get rid of the edge.

Or you could make your dado deeper, on just the top, so that only about an 1/8 of the edge shows.
You would still have to veneer the edge.

View ppg677's profile

ppg677

225 posts in 1742 days


#8 posted 01-24-2018 05:41 PM

Thank you all. Yes, I lifted the image from somewhere (probably SMC).

View Bill_Steele's profile

Bill_Steele

732 posts in 2618 days


#9 posted 01-24-2018 05:50 PM

I agree with others—put a top on it.

I think it’s called a rabbet joint as opposed to a rabbit joint—which I imagine to look like this (joking)

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

1483 posts in 1702 days


#10 posted 01-24-2018 06:10 PM

Actually, most of the joints illustrated are commonly referred to as dado joints. Rabbet joints usually refer to a cross grain cut along the edge like the top one in the illustration.

View Mike_D_S's profile

Mike_D_S

605 posts in 3101 days


#11 posted 01-24-2018 07:03 PM

Another simple answer is adding a piece of hardwood edging to the plywood side. Basically glue on a 1/4 strip to the end of the plywood side. Then cut your rabbet as normal. The end of the ply will be hidden and you’ll have a small seam showing on the side.

Not invisible, but not as much work as building a top.

Mike

-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

5875 posts in 3237 days


#12 posted 01-24-2018 07:45 PM

Put a hardwood top on it, it won’t cost a lot and will add another dimension of class to the piece. Also add a plinth, make the simple look elegant.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View ppg677's profile

ppg677

225 posts in 1742 days


#13 posted 01-26-2018 03:16 AM

What’s a plinth and how do I make one? From googling, looks like a bottom piece.

View John Smith's profile (online now)

John Smith

2735 posts in 1049 days


#14 posted 01-26-2018 04:15 AM

modified photo just to show the top and bottom of a nicely constructed cabinet case.
a simple decorative support base (plinth) will add charm and character to your bookcase.

.

-- there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks. --

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

6116 posts in 3195 days


#15 posted 01-26-2018 04:46 AM

Perhaps you have a good reason for not telling us but you never did answer the question…. “How tall is it and how you going to finish it?

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View ppg677's profile

ppg677

225 posts in 1742 days


#16 posted 01-26-2018 02:10 PM

About 68 inches tall. I bought prefinished maple ply. Face frame will obviously be maple.

Perhaps tall enough to skip the top.

I’ll have to figure out how to make a base. In the past all I’ve done is make short legs with a little apron.

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1243 posts in 2881 days


#17 posted 01-26-2018 03:36 PM

What if you miter and spline the top instead of rabbet it?

Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View ppg677's profile

ppg677

225 posts in 1742 days


#18 posted 01-29-2018 05:18 AM

Any suggestions for attaching a solid top to plywood? I need to account for movement

View Rich's profile

Rich

6002 posts in 1475 days


#19 posted 01-29-2018 05:32 AM


Any suggestions for attaching a solid top to plywood? I need to account for movement

- ppg677

I like to make it fixed at the front and let the back move. That way any reveal in the front stays constant. I think I originally got that from a Charles Neil video. How you attach it is up to you. There are lots of different ways.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

6116 posts in 3195 days


#20 posted 01-29-2018 07:46 PM

Forget using a double top. Attach the solid wood top the the sides using a a 1/2 sliding dovetail (not sure the correct name of that joint but that’s what I call it).

Hopefully these pictures explain it. Once you slide it on you can glue just use a dab of glue in the front on each side.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

6116 posts in 3195 days


#21 posted 01-29-2018 09:26 PM

One more pic,

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1243 posts in 2881 days


#22 posted 01-30-2018 01:18 PM

Not all plywood takes well to dovetails like that. You may choose to use the same concept but with a dado in the top that is the full thickness of the plywood. Same drill, glue only the front inch or so.

Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8947 posts in 3463 days


#23 posted 01-30-2018 03:38 PM

Clean work AlaskaGuy

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

6116 posts in 3195 days


#24 posted 01-30-2018 07:03 PM

I have done this successfully on plywood too. For the sides I run them standing up on my router table with the fence set far enough from the bit to just make a scoring cut with the the dovetail bit. Then move the fence to make the finial cut. On the to top make a dado first then use the dovetail bit to just cut the angle on one side of the dado.

I must admit I don’t buy my plywood at the big box stores.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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