All Replies on Do I add steel pipe to bar table before or after applying epoxy resin coating?

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Do I add steel pipe to bar table before or after applying epoxy resin coating?

by Nokstar
posted 01-21-2018 12:13 AM

4 replies so far

View jerryminer's profile


960 posts in 2324 days

#1 posted 01-21-2018 12:33 AM

Finish first. Add pipe after. Don’t worry about “cracking” the epoxy. What brand epoxy are you using?

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

View Nokstar's profile


2 posts in 1009 days

#2 posted 01-21-2018 12:40 AM

Finish first. Add pipe after. Don t worry about “cracking” the epoxy. What brand epoxy are you using?

- jerryminer

I’m using “glaze coat” by famowood. This would be the first time I’m trying this. Thanks for the advice, I’ve literally been looking for a clear answer for a couple days. Looks like I will be doing the coat first and adding the pipes later!

View John Smith's profile (online now)

John Smith

2725 posts in 1046 days

#3 posted 01-21-2018 12:50 AM

definitely finish first – pre drilling the holes will lessen the chance of long cracks (should they occur).

-- there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks. --

View runswithscissors's profile


3118 posts in 2908 days

#4 posted 01-22-2018 10:47 PM

I looked at the link to the “industrial” furniture featuring pipe legs and stretchers, and noticed that almost all of them use threaded nipples for the main part (I saw one exception that used set screws, like I did).

I made a coffee table using leftover beech from a tree I took down in my yard. Most of the wood (the best stuff) went for 2 bookcases, and the leftovers weren’t the nicest. So I did sort of a desultory job on the top (desultory=half-assed).

But I was very pleased with how the legs, etc. turned out. Instead of having to cut and thread pipe (or buy nipples of the right length), I dispensed with threads altogether. I used 1.5” raw steel pipe—not galvanized or black.

I did this by reaming all the Ts to remove threads and let the pipe slide through. The legs therefore are in one piece. The Ts for the stretchers are held at the right height with ordinary allen screws—very easy to drill and tap for these. And I can set the stretchers at any height I want, whenever the mood strikes.

I started the reaming with a hole saw in the DP. Now, I wasn’t able to find a size that would remove just the right amount of thread, so I next set up the oscillating spindle sander to enlarge the holes. Used very coarse sanding sleeves, as large in diameter as would fit. It’s surprising how quickly grey cast iron can be sanded.

Since the pipe was quite large, I decided against flanges for the feet, but instead found that 2” (?) black ABS pipe caps would fit perfectly. They needed a bit of mallet persuasion, but nothing too severe. As for the top flange, I decided to weld on 1/8” steel squares with fastening holes (pipe flanges would have been too big for my design).

Within a day, a crack started to open in one of the top boards, so I removed the top and elongated the holes in the steel to allow wood movement, and by the next day, the crack had closed up.

There is no apron on this table, and I keep waiting for the thing to collapse because the top planks are just glued, with no other reinforcement. And people like to sit on it. But so far so good.

By the way, the table is heavy as hell. Sorry, didn’t mean to hijack this thread, but I may do a write up with photos on this later, depending on interest.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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