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View SJThrasher's profile

Burning Hard wood while resawing

by SJThrasher
posted 01-18-2018 10:47 PM


16 replies so far

View Mark's profile

Mark

1014 posts in 2513 days


#1 posted 01-18-2018 11:02 PM

I assume yer resawing the 10” side. Not real sure, but it seems if your cutting slow, in very hard wood, I would think that would produce a fair bit of friction. Now add that to some thing like Pam cooking spray and that may be the source of the smoke. JMTCW.

-- Mark

View Lee's profile

Lee

139 posts in 1417 days


#2 posted 01-18-2018 11:46 PM

Are you using a tall aux fence at least as high as the work piece? It sounds like your pushing the wood into the side of the blade. with the right set up the body of the blade wont touch ether side of the wood, the set of the teeth will make a wider cut than the blade is thick. dont push the wood so hard into the fence, just a slight pressure is all thats needed, and only in front of the blade never behind it. hope this helps and good luck.

-- Colombia Custom Woodworking

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

3131 posts in 2712 days


#3 posted 01-19-2018 12:21 AM

Blade is dull. Jet 14 has piece of metal under lower guides that can hit 3\4 blade if guides out of adjustment just slightly. Knocks the tip off the teeth . DAMHIKT

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

8399 posts in 3337 days


#4 posted 01-19-2018 12:36 AM

If I’m resawing really hard wood, (particularly really valuable, really hard wood) I use a Lennox Trimaster carbide blade. They aren’t cheap but you would not want to damage a piece of wood that valuable and rare.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 2025 days


#5 posted 01-19-2018 12:58 AM

3/4 is too big for a riser. I wouldn’t put it on one without either.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View SJThrasher's profile

SJThrasher

31 posts in 1829 days


#6 posted 01-19-2018 03:25 PM

Thanks for all of the answers. I didn’t think to thoroughly check the fence. I will check out videos on proper setup. As for the Pam smoking, that may add to it, but it’s not the primary source. I’ll check out the Lennox blade. Fridge, not sure what you mean. The saw is designed for this size blade, the blade is under proper tension, the blade does not wander, and a longer blade means more heat dissipation.

View JayT's profile

JayT

6311 posts in 2750 days


#7 posted 01-19-2018 04:11 PM

What Fridge is referring to is that while most cast iron framed 14in bandsaws will say they can use a 3/4in blade, the amount of tension needed is at the very top edge of the saws’ capabilities and construction, including guide adjustment. Add in a bit less rigidity due the riser block and it’s really straining. Most people with 14in saws are better served using a 1/2in resaw blade. With proper set up, it will provide just as good of results and be easier on the saw.

All that said, if it is working for you, have at it. When it’s time to replace the blade, you might consider trying a 1/2 or 5/8 blade and see which gives better performance.

-- https://www.jtplaneworks.com - In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 2025 days


#8 posted 01-19-2018 04:40 PM

Ditto.


Blade is dull. Jet 14 has piece of metal under lower guides that can hit 3 blade if guides out of adjustment just slightly. Knocks the tip off the teeth . DAMHIKT

- johnstoneb

I’d double check with this too.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View BandsawJeff's profile

BandsawJeff

52 posts in 739 days


#9 posted 01-20-2018 12:29 PM



Are you using a tall aux fence at least as high as the work piece? It sounds like your pushing the wood into the side of the blade. with the right set up the body of the blade wont touch ether side of the wood, the set of the teeth will make a wider cut than the blade is thick. dont push the wood so hard into the fence, just a slight pressure is all thats needed, and only in front of the blade never behind it. hope this helps and good luck.

- Lee

+1 on binding the blade! You may consider the explanation in this video…really opened my eyes when it came to bandsaw setup.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4k-r5utmU2Q

View jonah's profile

jonah

2090 posts in 3838 days


#10 posted 01-20-2018 12:44 PM

My Taiwan made 14” bandsaw (identical to the Jet) can technically use a 3/4” blade, but when I tried one, I realized the guides and wheels really aren’t designed to properly put the center of the wheel right behind the gullets on the blade. They’re just too thin and too close to the outside case to do that.

Try a 1/2” or 5/8” blade.

View pontic's profile

pontic

697 posts in 1148 days


#11 posted 01-20-2018 12:53 PM

Anyone ever tried an air jet in frond of the blade to remove chips quicker and cool the blade as well? Assuming all of the above are addressed this really speeds up the cutting process.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

View SJThrasher's profile

SJThrasher

31 posts in 1829 days


#12 posted 01-20-2018 03:10 PM

Thanks again for all of the replies. On the dull blade, I totally agree, I think it was the driftwood not a matter of the bade hitting any part of the saw, as I had thoroughly checked that first because of the issues with the first blade. There were a few pebbles in the burl and even one 1/8” one that I sawed right through.

Great tips on the riser block and rigidity. Because I need a new blade and because I generally do not do a lot of large resawing, I’ll try out at least a 5/8” if not the 1/2”.

I checked out the video. Great product, and some great information about blade binding.

By the way, interesting thing is that I can still cut other woods with the existing blade with no burning. I even cut 1” off of the next piece of driftwood with no issues at all so I know a lot of my problem is the hardness. There is a local guy who advertises resawing services. For this one piece of Rose wood, I may just go with the pro. Then it’s off to the next slab, a slightly softer piece of Koa that I’ve had on my shelf for over 10 years.

View Planeman40's profile

Planeman40

1453 posts in 3300 days


#13 posted 01-20-2018 05:55 PM

If all else fails, try making multiple passes taking light cuts and raising the blade some on each pass. Taking one full pass all the way through the wood really heats up the blade!

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View JBrow's profile

JBrow

1368 posts in 1459 days


#14 posted 01-21-2018 02:23 AM

SJThrasher,

I have not tried this method of re-sawing, but it might solve your problem. In summary the method starts with the table saw where the table saw blade creates an initial kerf. A ripping blade in the table saw would likely produce the best results. Multiple passes of increasing depth of cut could produce less burning.

After the table saw kerf is created, there is less material for the bandsaw to cut so the cut should be easier with less heat.

The technique can be seen from 18:36 to 20:10 in the video…

http://tommymac.us/2015/08/episode-0606-tv-tray-with-jesse-shaw/

View NoSpace's profile

NoSpace

170 posts in 1779 days


#15 posted 01-21-2018 03:21 AM

Assuming you don’t have issues with resawing say, maple, with a new blade, thus the setup should be okay, I’d take the plunge and get the 1/2” Lennox Trimaster that was recommended. I have that on my 1412. Not cheap, but it solved every problem I had, including 35$ blades dulling after 5 minutes cutting exotics. I re-sawed 6” Rosewood recently, no problem, but that stuff is extremely hard and at 10”, just thinking about how long my other blades lasted resawing 8” of maple, and a couple of passes sounds about right.

View SJThrasher's profile

SJThrasher

31 posts in 1829 days


#16 posted 02-06-2018 04:29 PM

Though I haven’t had the time to order a new blade, I did notice something about my saw. I recently removed my add-on Rockler table (and of course the rip fence that went with it). Yesterday, I was cutting some wood and noticed the angle of the blade. The way the blade was cutting, and the angle of the piece I was cutting in relation to the blade, showed that I was likely pushing into the rip fence when trying to resaw. This could definitely be a contributing factor. I have decided when I get my new blade, I will scribe straight lines and free-cut the wood. Though the cut won’t be perfectly straight, and I may lose 1/16” or so to the planer (I will add that to the original cut) it may be a solution for me because of how little resawing I do.

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