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All Replies on 1/4 gap between Mantel top and wall

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View trevorlamont's profile

1/4 gap between Mantel top and wall

by trevorlamont
posted 01-16-2018 11:02 PM


23 replies so far

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5918 posts in 3178 days


#1 posted 01-16-2018 11:14 PM

I had the same issue with a mantel, and I scribed the mantel to the wall for a tight fit. Just run a carpenters pencil against the wall, and mark the line on your project. Then belt sand it to fit.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View trevorlamont's profile

trevorlamont

15 posts in 2327 days


#2 posted 01-16-2018 11:19 PM

Wow, that’s a great recommendation. I should have posted here first. So the problem I have is 1. I don’t have a belt sander. That is on my list of tools I need still for sure. 2. The bigger problem.. I already secured the mantel top.. slap my forhead


I had the same issue with a mantel, and I scribed the mantel to the wall for a tight fit. Just run a carpenters pencil against the wall, and mark the line on your project. Then belt sand it to fit.

- pintodeluxe


View alittleoff's profile

alittleoff

541 posts in 1641 days


#3 posted 01-16-2018 11:35 PM

You might look at running a small piece of moulding across the back. I’d rather do that than caulk it.
Gerald

View Ripper70's profile

Ripper70

1263 posts in 1273 days


#4 posted 01-16-2018 11:43 PM



You might look at running a small piece of moulding across the back. I d rather do that than caulk it.
Gerald

- alittleoff


+1 Better to creatively hide the mistake rather than try to patch it with less than the desired results.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

View Luthierman's profile

Luthierman

222 posts in 1452 days


#5 posted 01-17-2018 01:03 AM

You can also remove the drywall from the footprint of the mantle as well and it will sink right back in the hole.

-- Jesse, West Lafayette, Indiana

View Clarkswoodworking's profile

Clarkswoodworking

289 posts in 498 days


#6 posted 01-17-2018 01:09 AM

As a journeyman drywall taper I would have to say mud it
I wish I was close I would come whip it out for you !

View Ripper70's profile

Ripper70

1263 posts in 1273 days


#7 posted 01-17-2018 03:43 AM



I wish I was close I would come whip it out for you !

- Clarkswoodworking


Now, wait a minute…

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

5974 posts in 1077 days


#8 posted 01-17-2018 03:44 AM

if your painting it BONDO :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View Rich's profile

Rich

4424 posts in 954 days


#9 posted 01-17-2018 03:56 AM

I wish I was close I would come whip it out for you !

- Clarkswoodworking

Now, wait a minute…

- Ripper70

“Excuse me while I whip this out” — Blazing Saddles

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

951 posts in 1806 days


#10 posted 01-17-2018 05:27 AM

The right way to do this is to scribe it to the wall. (Too late to detach, scribe, and re-attach?). second best is to mud the wall and repaint (mask off the mantle first.). Third, Bondo.

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

View ScottM's profile

ScottM

728 posts in 2511 days


#11 posted 01-17-2018 01:53 PM

+1 for adding trim.

View tomsteve's profile

tomsteve

937 posts in 1584 days


#12 posted 01-17-2018 02:27 PM

id go trim or scribe it. bondo or mud i think wouldnt be wise as wood moves and the two of those would eventually crack.
but then again i have the same problem with my mantel. i dont notice it unless im cleaning the mantel.

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1243 posts in 2360 days


#13 posted 01-17-2018 02:39 PM

Pretty sure some genius of days gone by invented quarter round trim for things just like this….:)

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

16109 posts in 2983 days


#14 posted 01-17-2018 07:49 PM

Scribe, remove, fit it properly, reinstall. You know that’s what should be done.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View builtinbkyn's profile

builtinbkyn

2937 posts in 1305 days


#15 posted 01-17-2018 07:56 PM

Trim would spoil the look – especially if you’re going for a floating shelf look. It’s already been said and I second, scribing the wall or mudding the hollow. If you mud the hollow, add some plaster of Paris powder to the mix.

-- Bill, Yo!......in Brooklyn & Steel City :)

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1264 days


#16 posted 01-17-2018 08:06 PM

Here is a long shot, but you never know (not having all the info.)
Is the mantle over a fireplace?
What is on the other side of the wall? Can you access it?
Screw through the drywall into the mantle and suck the sheet rock to the mantle from behind.

View AUswimKC's profile

AUswimKC

42 posts in 2313 days


#17 posted 01-17-2018 08:18 PM

Caulk it. If it looks bad, remove and scribe. But try to caulk it first. This is assuming the mantle or wall is getting painted such that the caulk will be painted over to match one or the other

View trevorlamont's profile

trevorlamont

15 posts in 2327 days


#18 posted 01-18-2018 05:42 AM

First off, thank you so much for the advice and knowledge of everyone here. I definitely appreciate it and wish I would have posted here before I glued and nailed the mantel up. I asked my dad what I should do before I posted on here and he said “that’s why caulk manufactures are rich” something along those lines. So I attached it and thought, the guys on lumberjocks will know what to do. Anyway, I went with the spackle route. Mainly cause I knew I could sand it down and make it “invisible” with paint. If/when it cracks I figure I can add trim/quarter round at that point. The other thought I had is I could do wood paneling up the wall and it would hid the gap.

This is the mantel to give you guys the full story (if you care)

View Gilley23's profile

Gilley23

489 posts in 747 days


#19 posted 01-18-2018 10:50 AM

Looks great!

I would caulk it. Good caulk will last almost forever and will expand and contract with the wall and mantle.

View trevorlamont's profile

trevorlamont

15 posts in 2327 days


#20 posted 01-18-2018 10:56 PM

What caulk do you like?


Looks great!

I would caulk it. Good caulk will last almost forever and will expand and contract with the wall and mantle.

- Gilley23


View Ripper70's profile

Ripper70

1263 posts in 1273 days


#21 posted 01-18-2018 11:36 PM

Try DAP Extreme Stretch or Sashco Big Stretch. I’ve used both and have been very satisfied with the results.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1900 posts in 968 days


#22 posted 01-18-2018 11:47 PM

Call a drywall guy and have him mud it. Some things are just better left to the pros. Can’t be that much to have it done well, fast and right. I’m assuming that the board is straight and the drywall is not.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Rich's profile

Rich

4424 posts in 954 days


#23 posted 01-19-2018 12:14 AM


Call a drywall guy and have him mud it. Some things are just better left to the pros. Can t be that much to have it done well, fast and right. I m assuming that the board is straight and the drywall is not.

- Andybb

The voice of reason. A good drywall guy will make it perfect.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

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