LumberJocks

All Replies on Hanging method question

  • Advertise with us
View BB1's profile

Hanging method question

by BB1
posted 01-15-2018 02:28 AM


25 replies so far

View Ripper70's profile

Ripper70

1263 posts in 1272 days


#1 posted 01-15-2018 02:36 AM

Are we talking sheetrock? If so…

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

View BB1's profile

BB1

1360 posts in 1212 days


#2 posted 01-15-2018 02:40 AM

This is a “thank you” gift for someone who helped me out with something on my truck so not sure what the surface will be.


Are we talking sheetrock? If so…

- Ripper70


View clin's profile

clin

1027 posts in 1360 days


#3 posted 01-15-2018 02:49 AM

French cleat maybe?

-- Clin

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8639 posts in 2941 days


#4 posted 01-15-2018 03:01 AM

Depending on the thickness of the frame, shelf, project you’re making:

I like using these EZ anchors for sheet rock:

View BB1's profile

BB1

1360 posts in 1212 days


#5 posted 01-15-2018 03:01 AM

That would be very secure. The board is about 12” long by 7” high so not too big.


French cleat maybe?

- clin


View BB1's profile

BB1

1360 posts in 1212 days


#6 posted 01-15-2018 03:08 AM

The keyhole looking cut is interesting- but not sure how to make that cut. Is there a name for that technique so I can look for a how to video?

Edit: just watched a video and this looks like a great option. Of course, need to get my hands on that router bit…excuse to shop for the shop. :)

Edit #2…have one ordered. Thanks for the recommendation!


Depending on the thickness of the frame, shelf, project you re making:

I like using these EZ anchors for sheet rock:

- waho6o9


View TungOil's profile

TungOil

1211 posts in 859 days


#7 posted 01-15-2018 03:19 AM

The keyhole bit is what I used for my key rack, works like a charm and has never been pulled off the wall

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

View BB1's profile

BB1

1360 posts in 1212 days


#8 posted 01-15-2018 04:03 AM

Just ordered a keyhole bit – guessing the bit will be nice to have for this and also future projects. Looking forward to trying it out.


The keyhole bit is what I used for my key rack, works like a charm and has never been pulled off the wall

- TungOil


View bold1's profile

bold1

322 posts in 2211 days


#9 posted 01-15-2018 02:40 PM

I’ve always likes the half lap method, when I’m not sure where it’s going to be hung. That way if the studs are off it doesn’t matter, unlike keyholes. Just mount your wall board level and hang the other on it. If you want you can run 1 or 2 screws thru the back into the mount board to keep it from lifting up & unhooking.

View BB1's profile

BB1

1360 posts in 1212 days


#10 posted 01-15-2018 02:48 PM

Thanks for the suggestion. I’m not sure how this would be set up. I’ve used half lap on joints but can’t picture how this would be applied on the wall. Would it require drilling through the project piece to attach?


I ve always likes the half lap method, when I m not sure where it s going to be hung. That way if the studs are off it doesn t matter, unlike keyholes. Just mount your wall board level and hang the other on it. If you want you can run 1 or 2 screws thru the back into the mount board to keep it from lifting up & unhooking.

- bold1


View bold1's profile

bold1

322 posts in 2211 days


#11 posted 01-15-2018 06:35 PM

Board attached to the wall has a dado (half lap) cut on the side toward the wall. Mount piece has another opposite half lap piece mounted or cut into the frame of the piece to mount. Mount the wall board level, allowing room at the ceiling to let the piece go over the mount board and drop the half laps together. The system used to be used by a lot of cabinet installers. You mount your half lap mount boards level around the kitchen wall. The cabinets have the opposite lap cut into the top frame rail or a mount board. You hang the cabinets on the mount boards and run crown moulding or plate rail around the top to close the top gap. That way you don’t have to hold up the heavy cabinet up while someone screws them fast and you don’t have to worry if the studs line up with the cabinet case where you can’t run a screw.

View BB1's profile

BB1

1360 posts in 1212 days


#12 posted 01-15-2018 06:47 PM

Ok -sounds like this would be a similar concept as using the cleat system. Can definitely see how this would be helpful in getting cabinents mounted. Thanks for clarifying. Adding this technique to my mental “how to” resource list.


Board attached to the wall has a dado (half lap) cut on the side toward the wall. Mount piece has another opposite half lap piece mounted or cut into the frame of the piece to mount. Mount the wall board level, allowing room at the ceiling to let the piece go over the mount board and drop the half laps together. The system used to be used by a lot of cabinet installers. You mount your half lap mount boards level around the kitchen wall. The cabinets have the opposite lap cut into the top frame rail or a mount board. You hang the cabinets on the mount boards and run crown moulding or plate rail around the top to close the top gap. That way you don t have to hold up the heavy cabinet up while someone screws them fast and you don t have to worry if the studs line up with the cabinet case where you can t run a screw.

- bold1


View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5918 posts in 3177 days


#13 posted 01-15-2018 06:48 PM

Yeah, the keyhole idea looks like a winner. If you really want to go the extra mile, include a paper template for spacing the screws the correct distance apart. I’m assuming you’ll rout two slots, but I guess one could work as well.

For other projects that don’t require that much stability, like picture frames, I’ve had good luck using the standard toothed hangers. I just add squares of double-sided tape at the lower corners, and they stay put.

For large and heavy objects like mirror frames I screw them directly to the wall and cap the holes with decorative square plugs.

I think you’re on the right track with the keyhole slots for this project.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View BB1's profile

BB1

1360 posts in 1212 days


#14 posted 01-15-2018 07:07 PM

Thanks for the feedback. I’ve used the other methods as you mentioned with a picture frame and shelf but think the keyhole slot seems a good match for the project.

Will play around with the bit when it arrives. I’m thinking of making the slot horizontal so the person can have an ability to adjust as needed (rather than my trying to ensure the hole is perfectly centered with a vertical slot).


Yeah, the keyhole idea looks like a winner. If you really want to go the extra mile, include a paper template for spacing the screws the correct distance apart. I m assuming you ll rout two slots, but I guess one could work as well.

For other projects that don t require that much stability, like picture frames, I ve had good luck using the standard toothed hangers. I just add squares of double-sided tape at the lower corners, and they stay put.

For large and heavy objects like mirror frames I screw them directly to the wall and cap the holes with decorative square plugs.

I think you re on the right track with the keyhole slots for this project.

- pintodeluxe


View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

2639 posts in 1586 days


#15 posted 01-16-2018 03:49 PM

The first picture with the “sawtooth” hanger is something I’ll never use. They have a tendency to never be exactly centered causing the frame to hang crooked.

The wire works very well for frames that will not be touched, but you can center them easily (wider frames need two support screws into the wall, but adjustment are just as easy.

For anything that is going to be “touched: you really should have two hanging points. The “D” rings (where the wire attaches to the frame in your picture) work well, I prefer the triangle shaped ones. Two screws with largish diameter heads into the wall and you can rotate the rings slightly if the screws are slightly mis-positioned.

The keyhole slots are excellent, only issue is you need to have the screws in the wall located exactly. No room for error.

If the object to hang is largish, you can use a straight bit to cut the keyhole slot and use metal keyhole cover plates that screw down over the slot. These avoid any problems of the wood breaking away.

Keyholes are the more refined approach IMO.

View LittleShaver's profile

LittleShaver

527 posts in 983 days


#16 posted 01-16-2018 06:38 PM

+1 on the keyhole cover plates. I’ve used them to hang all kinds of stuff on the wall and they haven’t failed. Some even have ridges on the inside face of the hanger to “catch” the hanging screw and kind of lock them in place. They only seem limited by the strength of the wall bolt anchor.

-- Sawdust Maker

View BB1's profile

BB1

1360 posts in 1212 days


#17 posted 01-20-2018 12:52 PM

splintergroup – you mentioned having “two hanging points.” I don’t have the bit yet to cut the keyhole (hoping it arrives today as I had to order it, didn’t find that anyone local had one) but I was wondering if it would be an option to make a longer horizontal cut that would have two plunge points so two wall nails/screws could be used. Just thinking the vertical option will mean I need to be perfect…and hate to ruin the project. Although as I write this and the more I think about it, doubt there would be any more/less accuracy needed for my enlongated horizontal idea. Maybe after I get the bit and practice on some scrap wood I’ll feel more confident and get a better understanding how to make this all work optimally.

I do like the keyhole covers. Will need to search a bit more as a quick search brought up more decorative options – I like the simple one you pictured. Splintergroup or LittleShaver -do you have a particular source from which you purchase you covers?

Thanks for the insights!

View WilliamPelletier's profile

WilliamPelletier

4 posts in 491 days


#18 posted 01-20-2018 02:08 PM

I use keyhole slots frequently for my artwork. On the larger pieces that need two points of contact, instead of one large slot with two plunge points, I use two smaller slots spaced appropriately for the size of the piece. Since I work with a fair bit of rough cut wood, I also use french cleats quite often. I can “hide” a long section on the back of my piece and use two small ones on the wall. As far as missing studs, hollow wall anchors like the EZ anchors shown above are very strong and very easy.

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2837 posts in 2660 days


#19 posted 01-20-2018 02:58 PM

The plain old picture hanging wire will work fine if you use two nails or hooks in the wall. Also rubber pads at the bottom will keep it from jostling around too much.

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

2639 posts in 1586 days


#20 posted 01-20-2018 03:13 PM


splintergroup – you mentioned having “two hanging points.” I don t have the bit yet to cut the keyhole (hoping it arrives today as I had to order it, didn t find that anyone local had one) but I was wondering if it would be an option to make a longer horizontal cut that would have two plunge points so two wall nails/screws could be used. Just thinking the vertical option will mean I need to be perfect…and hate to ruin the project. Although as I write this and the more I think about it, doubt there would be any more/less accuracy needed for my enlongated horizontal idea. Maybe after I get the bit and practice on some scrap wood I ll feel more confident and get a better understanding how to make this all work optimally.

I hadn’t thought about going horizontal. Not sure what would really be gained over two keyholes. The two points of suspension simply eliminate any swinging from being touched (and of corse the added support strength)

I do like the keyhole covers. Will need to search a bit more as a quick search brought up more decorative options – I like the simple one you pictured. Splintergroup or LittleShaver -do you have a particular source from which you purchase you covers?

Thanks for the insights!

- BB1

I’ll typically buy in bulk from Amazon, etc. to save money but there are a lot of styles as you have seen. The one pictured is usually embedded with a deeper slot for the hanging screw and a shallow/wide slot to make the plate flush. There are thinner versions that can be mounted directly on the back, but all require a slot for the screw head (you can even overlay them on a keyhole cut with your new bit for added strength).

Definitely do the practice cuts! It is worth the time to make a simple jig to guide the keyhole bit. Exactly the same as routing a mortice, but only back the bit out on the lower end 8^)

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

2639 posts in 1586 days


#21 posted 01-20-2018 03:22 PM

Thinking more about the horizontal slot(s), that sounds like a fairly sturdy option. The hanging screws will need to be placed in the wall perfectly level, but the spacing is not so critical. They will also need to be slightly “loose” (more clearance between the screw head and the wall) so you can get one screw started into the slot, slide the frame over and lift it enough to get the second screw into the opposite hole then slide it back to center things.
Two vertical slots will require exact screw placement, but some creative shimming can be done to get the frame level (stuff some cotton, etc. into the end of the low side slot if not level).

View BB1's profile

BB1

1360 posts in 1212 days


#22 posted 01-20-2018 03:22 PM

I was thinking I would use my router table but now that I think through the setup, I’m not sure how it would work with the vertical option. Have not yet done a mortise. Heading to youtube!

Edit…thank you Wood Whisperer for a simple short tutorial on cutting mortises with a router. Now I need an edge guide! https://youtu.be/yZr_tvra--0


Definitely do the practice cuts! It is worth the time to make a simple jig to guide the keyhole bit. Exactly the same as routing a mortice, but only back the bit out on the lower end 8^)

- splintergroup


View BB1's profile

BB1

1360 posts in 1212 days


#23 posted 01-20-2018 03:27 PM

I was thinking that the screws would be set so both could be inserted in their respective plunge opening at the same time and then slid over into the slots. Thus, the screw placement would need to be precise (guess I’m putting the responsibility for level on the recipient!).

Note that this project is only about 12 inches wide and 7 inches tall so not a big item…just one that will be “handled” as keys are hung or mail/items placed and removed.


Thinking more about the horizontal slot(s), that sounds like a fairly sturdy option. The hanging screws will need to be placed in the wall perfectly level, but the spacing is not so critical. They will also need to be slightly “loose” (more clearance between the screw head and the wall) so you can get one screw started into the slot, slide the frame over and lift it enough to get the second screw into the opposite hole then slide it back to center things.
Two vertical slots will require exact screw placement, but some creative shimming can be done to get the frame level (stuff some cotton, etc. into the end of the low side slot if not level).

- splintergroup


View BB1's profile

BB1

1360 posts in 1212 days


#24 posted 02-11-2018 11:48 PM

A belated Thank You for all the advice on this. To “conclude the story,” I purchased a keyhole router bit and after a few practice cuts completed the cuts on my project (slight waver on the one cut, but ok)

Have used it a couple more times and find it easy to do, and gives a nice finished look to the projects.

The latest:

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8639 posts in 2941 days


#25 posted 02-12-2018 12:10 AM

Nice, I like the idea of. using two slots!

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com