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Concerning a new table saw

by Chris Cook
posted 01-11-2018 02:00 AM


40 replies so far

View jonah's profile

jonah

2067 posts in 3658 days


#1 posted 01-11-2018 02:04 AM

Sawstops give absolutely nothing away in terms of quality to Powermatic. Powermatic makes a great saw, but so does Sawstop. The PCS is a heavier, nicer saw than the PM1000. It’s more comparable to the PM2000.

Do you not have 240V in your shop? If you do, I’d consider the 3HP PCS.

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

5675 posts in 2080 days


#2 posted 01-11-2018 02:17 AM

I would agree weigh your assessment of the Powermatic being number one with the other two being lesser & comparable. I had a little more recent experience playing around with a sawstop last December and I guess it’s an OK saw but it’s missing something I just can’t put my finger on, some intangible just doesn’t measure up. I guess I’ve been spoiled by my 25 year old Unisaw with a Unifence, there’s no Taiwanese saw made that I would think of trading it for at any price.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View Knockonit's profile

Knockonit

541 posts in 561 days


#3 posted 01-11-2018 02:35 AM



I would agree weigh your assessment of the Powermatic being number one with the other two being lesser & comparable. I had a little more recent experience playing around with a sawstop last December and I guess it s an OK saw but it s missing something I just can t put my finger on, some intangible just doesn t measure up. I guess I ve been spoiled by my 25 year old Unisaw with a Unifence, there s no Taiwanese saw made that I would think of trading it for at any price.

- bigblockyeti

Ditto, had mine since 84, and what a saw it is, still runs like new, with three moves, one of the best tools i’ve ever purchased.
good luck with selection
Rj

View Pogo930's profile

Pogo930

18 posts in 1002 days


#4 posted 01-11-2018 02:56 AM

I’ve had a Sawstop 3HP for 5 or 6 years now. X ( My son and 2 friends had saw accidents within 2 weeks. Wife said get the Sawstop NOW!)
It is lighter than my 1949 bullet motor Unisaw. Does it make that big a difference? Not really. But I agree with bigblockyeti about the intangible part. Dust collection from the 4” port is excellent. I don’t like the blade guard. Dust pickup from it is marginal and it prevents the fence from getting close to the blade. How much? Can’t remember because its in a box someplace. I would go with a guard like a Shark or Excalibur I think.
My son and I have both tripped the cartridge with the bar of a Jessem miter gauge. Both times just barely touched it, didn’t even leave a saw mark.
I tripped for real with my thumb reaching with left hand across the blade as it was ALMOST stooped. Blade hit the pad of my thumb and stung like crazy but it didn’t break the skin. If you’ve seen a real trip or a video where the saw is running you know they go off with a bang. In my case I couldn’t figure out what happened at first because it was virtually silent then I realized the blade had retracted. Saved some stitches that’s for sure.
If I had to replace what would I buy? Another Sawstop.

View GT350's profile

GT350

371 posts in 2341 days


#5 posted 01-11-2018 03:08 AM

I think your assessment of sawstop owners is incorrect when you say they won’t say anything negative about the saw. I think probably all of them are equal qualities so you could say that about any owner. I am an owner of a 1 3/4hp Sawstop cabinet saw and you are correct, I don’t have much bad to say about it but I didn’t like the standard blade guard so I switched it for the upgraded one. I really can’t say anything else negative about the saw and I can tell you about one of the perceived negatives is that it takes too long to change out to a dado blade. I timed it and it took about 30 seconds to switch the cartridge so that is not accurate. I would buy this saw over again unless I was cutting a lot of wide and deep dadoes in which case I would probably opt for the 3 hp version. It is so accurate I can reset it up and reproduce parts exactly the same as the original as I am sure the other saws will do also. What convinced me to buy the Sawstop was I figured that I would never forgive myself if I didn’t buy it and seriously injured myself since I needed a new saw anyway. I know some people will tell you that that injuries are caused by the operator and that is a great reason but no matter how much people say it, accidents, wether out of the operators control or negligence keep happening, I like the peace of mind in knowing that technology is there. I do believe it is everyones choice so now you must make yours.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10858 posts in 1845 days


#6 posted 01-11-2018 03:11 AM

HOW DID YOU KNOW??!?

If you want a new ones I won’t try to sell you hard on used. If you’re even considering a sawstop then just go with that one. I’m sure you’ll be happy with the powermatic as well. Laguna? Meh. If you get the rare lemon then good luck.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Dee1's profile

Dee1

325 posts in 2248 days


#7 posted 01-11-2018 03:38 AM

I have the 1 3/4 Cabinet saw it is my third table saw my first was a craftsman the second a Delta bought back in the early 60s I have had the Saw stop now for a couple years I use it mainly for hobbies and toy building.
I like it but I guess I don’t change to the dado often enough as it definitely takes me longer than 30 sec?
Also I am running it on 120 volt and I changed to a narrow blade as cutting hard maple I could pull it down at times
My only other complaint is setting the fence is usually a set it then fiddle with it when working close tolerances .
maybe I am getting to old I will hit 80 my next birthday.
Dee1

View msinc's profile

msinc

567 posts in 863 days


#8 posted 01-11-2018 03:55 AM

I just pulled the trigger on a PM2000, this afternoon in fact. I am hopeful that it is everything they say it is. Nothing against the others, I have several PM machines and am impressed with all of them. For a minute there I was looking hard at the Hammer slide thing, but it’s four times the money and a panel saw in reality….I can get a top of the line panel saw for $1600.00 that don’t take up a 20 foot long spot in my shop. I also looked hard at the saw stop but I feel like I am paying $1000 of the price for a safety feature that does zero for the quality of the cut. I have been at this for 42 years and still have all ten digits…I have never even had a close call, but will no doubt cut off four of them the day I get the new one set up just for writing that!!! If I was prone to having accidents with equipment or had a recent “run” of close calls I might think different. Haven’t heard great things about the Laguna fence. I almost got their bandsaw though, but the $100 a set blade guides were tough to swallow.

View Jerry's profile

Jerry

3151 posts in 2007 days


#9 posted 01-11-2018 03:59 AM

Any one of these saws, set up properly, will give the same quality cut and do everything you need it to.

All of them will be here and working well long after you aren’t.

Two of them will take your fingers.

I’m a guitarist too, if I could afford a saw stop, there would be no question.

There’s no do-overs with saw accidents, and it only takes once.

-- There are good ships and there are wood ships, the ships that sail the sea, but the best ships are friendships and may they always be. http://www.geraldlhunsucker.com/

View alittleoff's profile

alittleoff

541 posts in 1636 days


#10 posted 01-11-2018 04:06 AM

I’ve spent about a year and a half getting my older unisaw setup the way I want it. I don’t think there’s another saw out there that I would be as happy with other than a new powermatic. Then I’d have to set it up the way I’ve got my unisaw.
But, lately I’ve been considering buying a Sawstop because of the brake. I’m getting, or already have got to the age where I think I could make a mistake. The only thing about it is, I don’t think ill be satisfied with the professional line saw and really dont need the heavy duty industrial saw, or spend 5000.00 on one. For some reason the Saw stop professional saw looks light weight to me. I’ve thought about getting one an keeping my unisaw but if I keep it, ill be using it so why bother. I’m still undecided, but if I wasn’t as old and in better health I’d buy the powermatic in a minute if I needed a saw.
Gerald

View Greg the Cajun Wood Artist's profile

Greg the Cajun Wood Artist

457 posts in 1302 days


#11 posted 01-11-2018 04:33 AM

I am 70 and have never had a table saw accident ….but when you personally know someone that had a bad table saw accident … someone who also has always been very careful until that one moment…. the choice becomes obvious.

Seeing a friend who had a bad saw accident about 6 years ago helped me make the decision to buy a Sawstop that same day… and I have not one regret.
It is an excellent quality saw. I never put the factory fence on it since I had the Incra fence system

-- Wood for projects is like a good Fart..."better when you cut it yourself"

View GT350's profile

GT350

371 posts in 2341 days


#12 posted 01-11-2018 06:16 AM



I like it but I guess I don t change to the dado often enough as it definitely takes me longer than 30 sec?
Dee1

Just to be clear when I said it takes 30 seconds when changing to the dado blade I wasn’t referring to actually changing the blade which is the same as any other saw, I was talking about changing the cartridge. Basically after removing the blade I reach down and twist and remove the handle that holds it in, slide the cartridge out, slide the new one in and install the handle again. I know how far to turn the adjustment and that part is finished. After that install the blade like any other table saw. I personally know of two people that took fingers off on the table saw. One had been using a table saw all his adult life and he was over 70 and made an error and took three fingers off.

View Walker's profile

Walker

158 posts in 831 days


#13 posted 01-11-2018 06:52 AM

I’ll never have enough money for any of the saws on your list, but I am a guitarist. The thought of being able to play guitar immediately going away would make me buy a sawstop if I could afford one. I’m sure if it has any downsides at all you’ll get used to working around them, and it’s still better than a contractor saw.

On the other hand, there are a few really amazing guitarists who are missing fingers, which makes them even that more amazing. Django Reinhardt only had two good fingers on his left hand. Phil Keaggy is missing his medio finger on the right hand.

I don’t know what your guitar collection is like, but perhaps you could sell one or two to make up the price difference on the sawstop?

-- ~Walker

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MrUnix

7358 posts in 2558 days


#14 posted 01-11-2018 07:22 AM

The PM1000 and SS PCS are roughly the same in size and weight (PM is ~40 pounds lighter), but the PM comes with a 52” fence, while you would need to add an extra $270 for a 52” T-glide to the SS. You also get a 5 year warranty on the PM versus a 2 year one on the SS. If you are persuaded by the fear based marketing, then pay the hot dog fee and go with the SS. If you want more versatility and less expensive long term maintenance, then go with the PM.

Of course, you could also save yourself a few thousand by just finding a nice used machine, and use the extra cash for blades, wood, and dinner out with the significant other :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8794 posts in 3202 days


#15 posted 01-11-2018 07:32 AM

Chris,
You have investigated the merits of all the saws. Prices in the long run are comparable. Charles Neil fell asleep while pushing to finish work for a client. Cut his finger and he had a huge surgery bill as well as the loss of his finger. He bought a big Saw stop.

When you bite the bullet make sure it’s the one you want. I tell people that about cars because for every good quality vehicle there is always that one. So emotionally you are willing to deal with something you wanted vs. didn’t want.

Lots of good arguments here.

I went for 240 volt 3 hp grizzly used as it came out of a cabinet shop and it was replaced by the same model. I really pay attention when using my saw. Had a board get caught and flung back at me in the gut. Had knocked me down and I had a big butterfly on my stomach for a long time. I was wearing a back brace which took some of the blow.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

8277 posts in 3735 days


#16 posted 01-11-2018 11:42 AM

IMO the Fusion is not in the same league as the PCS or the PM1000. The guts are somewhat lighter duty, and the fence has a two piece aluminum rail. For around the same price as the Fusion, the Jet Proshop has a better fence and similar trunnion system.


If you have the funds, the PCS is a no brainer IMO. It’’s the only one that won’t bite the hand that feeds it, and the vast majority of folks think it’s extremely well made….me included.

If you want the best deal, consider Grizzly.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

3926 posts in 2348 days


#17 posted 01-11-2018 12:10 PM

If you are a guitarist and concerned about your fingers and hand, you know the answer.

The quality of the Sawstop is as good as the others or better. If you are talking about a Powermatic from 10-15 years ago, that was a very good saw but things have changed.

View cabmaker's profile

cabmaker

1745 posts in 3168 days


#18 posted 01-11-2018 12:38 PM

Chris…..the three saws you note are all imports so why not save some money and go grizz ?

If your just doing small hobby stuff,,,,why do you want a cabinet saw anyway….

And my two cents on the safety issue is this….. I know many, many pros….but i do not know any that have lost fingers on table saws….

NOW,,,,,shapers, jointers, radial saws …..are a different story

enjoy the journey JB

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

117615 posts in 3936 days


#19 posted 01-11-2018 01:57 PM

I’m not a guitarist but still like my fingers I sold a Powermatic 66 that was a dream of a saw that I loved but felt no matter how many years you have using a table saw as others have said all it takes is a second of distraction or one slip and you may be minus fingers and have doctor bills 10 times what the most expensive SawStop cost plus my ICS is even better than my old friend Powermatic 66

View copythat's profile

copythat

167 posts in 965 days


#20 posted 01-11-2018 02:21 PM

I have a PM1000 that is about a year old. It is a beautiful machine and dead accurate; I took the painstaking time to set it up properly. I also put a Wixie readout on it and it makes the saw even more awesome. However, even with all that, I do not recommend the PM1000; it is grossly underpowered.

I bought the saw because my garage shop did not have 220 power and it is fully sheetrocked with no way of running new power lines hidden in the walls. Well, I am now in the process of running lines affixed to the sheetrock because I need a better saw. I decided on this when I ripped a kiln dried 2×4 on the PM1000 and was able to make the blade STOP because the wood was too much for the saw. I had a Unisaw back in the 90’s and the 3hp motor wouldn’t even bog down.

I am now considering a European slider, the Hammer K3 winner 79×48. Good luck on your decision as I struggle with my own. If you are anywhere near north-central North Carolina, PM me; I have a beautiful PM1000 I will be selling soon.

-- Rob

View Robert's profile

Robert

3368 posts in 1840 days


#21 posted 01-11-2018 02:38 PM

I totally agree with the previous poster.

For years I struggled with a 1 1/2hp contractor saw. Even with thin kerf blades it was slow going efforts & listening to motor bog.

Personal perspective: now that I have one, I wouldn’t own a TS under 3HP.

Keep in mind too you get no only get more power, but usually a better made saw.

Those thin kerf blades get duller quicker, too.

Go for the cabinet saw if funds allow.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7786 posts in 3273 days


#22 posted 01-11-2018 05:32 PM

I also went Grizzly. A lot of good saws mentioned above, but they all can kick back at you as DocSavage said. I too have had a kick back in the gut. It was NOT the Grizzly, just lack of paying attention. It could have happened on a SS as well. BTW, I now wear a full face safety shield as a result, because it could have been thrown in my face. Just remember, the SS is only safer in select operations and not so in others…
Just my 2-cents…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View GT350's profile

GT350

371 posts in 2341 days


#23 posted 01-11-2018 05:38 PM

Mine is a 1 3/4 hp Sawstop and I use a standard blade that is kept sharp and I have never had a problem cutting up to 8/4 oak. Having said that I am a hobbyist so I just slow down a little. The place I notice power is with wide and deep dadoes which I don’t do a lot of. I don’t think there is any difference in this saw vs the 3hp other than the power. For what I do I would still buy the 1 3/4 hp because I can plug it in anywhere even though in my shop I do have 220. One more advantage is I can stop a kickback with this saw which I don’t think I could do with the 3hp.

View DalyArcher's profile

DalyArcher

124 posts in 1479 days


#24 posted 01-11-2018 06:08 PM

Kick back is of far greater a danger in my opinion than running your digits through the saw:

I really pay attention when using my saw. Had a board get caught and flung back at me in the gut. Had knocked me down and I had a big butterfly on my stomach for a long time. I was wearing a back brace which took some of the blow.

- DocSavage45

SawStop has no greater advantage over any other saw out there to prevent this. You are far more likely to experience a bad kick back situation than any other injury on the table saw in my opinion.

There are countless threads around the internet about SawStop. I just cant get past the business ethics of Mr. Gass to through a few thousand bucks at one. I don’t want this thread to derail, I’ll just leave it at that.

For my money I found a saw HIGH on my list of wants, completely lucked out and found a Canadian Made 5hp General with the 52” fence for $1000.00 Cdn! I will spend the money I saved on a set of JessEm Clear Cut stock guides and a few really good push sticks and feather boards.

All the saws you list are quality saws, including the sawstop from what I have seen. I was seriously considering a Laguna and a PM 2000 before I found my General. If you can put hands to them, all the better. Play around a bit, buy the one you like or get the best deal on and have fun, but be safe :)

View msinc's profile

msinc

567 posts in 863 days


#25 posted 01-11-2018 06:22 PM



I m not a guitarist but still like my fingers I sold a Powermatic 66 that was a dream of a saw that I loved but felt no matter how many years you have using a table saw as others have said all it takes is a second of distraction or one slip and you may be minus fingers and have doctor bills 10 times what the most expensive SawStop cost plus my ICS is even better than my old friend Powermatic 66

- a1Jim

Jim, would you consider the PM66 a “better” saw than the current PM2000?? If so, why? Thanks!!!!

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

117615 posts in 3936 days


#26 posted 01-11-2018 07:14 PM

Tom, I disagree as I think you know I feel who invented SS is not relative to whether someone wants’s the safety a SS offers and besides he dosen’t even own the company anymore, Yes Kickback is a danger but I feel that operating the saw and standing out of the path of kickback makes injury mostly preventable.It’s kind of like what safety divis do we want to get rid of in our car?Air bags or Seatbelts. I guess we have to agree to disagree my friend.

Msinc

Yes and no The PM 66 is a tank of a saw and would cut through almost any thickness of wood and it was American made.I believe the new PM’s are made overseas but so was my SS. I haven’t owned a PM2000 but I think they have riving knives where my old 66 did not, but I believe they make aftermarket ones that go one the
I always suggest folks pay close attention to what Knotscott has to say ,he’s our resident table saw/blade expert.

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msinc

567 posts in 863 days


#27 posted 01-11-2018 07:39 PM


Msinc

Yes and no…... but I believe they make aftermarket ones that go one the

- a1Jim

Thanks for the info…I am unable to dechipher the one sentence though….????

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a1Jim

117615 posts in 3936 days


#28 posted 01-11-2018 07:43 PM

Sorry not very clear , I believe they make aftermarket Riving knives that could be put on a used PM66.

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

3926 posts in 2348 days


#29 posted 01-11-2018 09:34 PM

Some of the statements are interesting.

In a survey of table saw injuries, 88% of injuries treated at the emergency were from blade contact. A significant number of these were from kick back causing blade contact.

A very high per cent of injuries happened with no riving knife.

We can all have our personal perspective of what is most dangerous but the data is from a large survey done for 2007-2008 by the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

I think a key to safety is a good riving knife and using it. It is a great thing that someone markets the aftermarket version.

Everyone evaluates their own needs on how to approach safety.

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mounttod

38 posts in 1331 days


#30 posted 01-11-2018 09:34 PM

Look at the Grizzly G0833P and Shop Fox 1851. These two saws should probably be in your consideration as well. More power than the Fusion or PM1000, good dust collection and from what I’ve been told good customer service. I’ve had my eye on them as a upgrade from my big box store saw. Over on Reddit I was told that the fence rails can be mounted to the right from the factory without drilling additional holes to give the full 36” rip capacity.

View Chris Cook's profile

Chris Cook

328 posts in 2640 days


#31 posted 01-12-2018 01:48 AM

Many replies and thanks a ton for your responses.

Thanks for the feedback on kickback and I well know that story myself. I have been running tablesaws since I was 13 and I learned the very hard way about kickback.

hear comes a side story, so skip if you’re bored easily:

My grandfather had an art studio on some property in Chesnee, South Carolina. My grandfather was an old school woodworker. Born in 1896 and taught art at the Philadelphia school of art, but also made his own frames, canvass, built furniture and on and on.

This was around 1980 and my dad built a house on some of the 90 acre land the family had there. If you’re from SC, look up Cook road in Chesnee. This art studio was about 1.5 miles from our house in the sticks of Chesnee.

ANYWAY! I would take my bike up to his art studio often to use his workshop next door. Usually in the weekday evenings and I would go up there alone for a few hours. Cutting up alder (theFridge) to make stupid things like guitar pedal cases and crap. I taught myself how to use a tablesaw in his shed. The internet connection was kind of crappy out there, so YouTube was not an option. Looking back on this, it was probably one of the stupidest things I could have ever done. I probably experienced 4 different forms of kickback before I decided to go ask a shop teacher at my Jr. High School how to cut wood so it wouldn’t fly back on me. I showed him the big bruise I had on my stomach. He laughed. The next day he took me over to the shop and showed me things I would have never figured out before I killed myself with the tablesaw. I remember trying to use the tablesaw to do trim work by easing the wood into the blade, forward, then back, then forward then BOOM! Face full of splinters, cuts on my hands (from wood). No safety glasses. Fortunatley there was never a serious accident. If there had been a phone there and I called for help on it, it would have been at least an hour before EMTs arrived.

No, asking my grandpop how to use it was not an option as he was not so keen on me being out there because he didn’t think I knew what I was doing and he was too much of a grump to teach me. That’s why I was out there at night when he as back at this house. I don’t blame him for it, I am about that grumpy now.

end of boring old timer story

The whole time I have been strong on the SawStop for the safety feature of course. I have used the contractor saw and frankly I don’t think it’s as good as some bigbox store saws at $499. It’s flimsy, loud and does not have the feel of a solid saw. The only SawStop that rates in quality is the SawStop 1-3/4 HP Professional Table Saw and above in their line. So very likely it will be the SawStop 1-3/4 HP Professional Table Saw and the safety feature is the reason. It is overpriced, but they know they have a great hook.

I am going to evaluate the Grizzly G0833P and Shop Fox 1851 as recommended.

I just noticed the SawStop 1-3/4 HP Professional has gone up $200 since two weeks ago. Yay!

I do appreciate everyone’s feedback.

-- Chris, "all we are is sawdust in the dust collector""

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TheFridge

10858 posts in 1845 days


#32 posted 01-12-2018 04:01 AM

Your grandfather obviously knew alder was the best.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View clin's profile

clin

1025 posts in 1355 days


#33 posted 01-12-2018 04:32 AM

Of course, there is no right answer to which saw you should buy. I’ll just add that I bought a 3HP SS PCS about two years ago. I got the 36” and the T-glide fence. I guess I have the upgraded guard.

The only complaint I have, and I don’t think it is necessarily specific to the SawStop, is with the T-glide fence, Sometimes nudging it a hair is a pain as it will move slightly when tightened. Perhaps I simply need to tighten up the adjustments. But I believe this style fence is common, so I don’t think it is a SS specific issue.

I put mine on the SS ICS mobile base. If you’re considering a mobile base, the nice thing about the ICS base is all 4 castors swivel. So you can rotate in place, the PCS mobile base has two fixed castors, so you have to do a little dance with the saw to get it right where you want it.

I’ve set my brake off one time running a metal miter gauge into it. I don’t recall any loud sound. It was baffling though as the saw blade seemed to just disappear. It took several seconds to figure out what the heck happened. I had a spare cartridge and blade, and was up and running in minutes.

P.S., I’m also a guitar player and a take comfort in knowing I won’t cut my fingers off with my saw. They are more expensive, but over the life of the saw, the cost difference is insignificant. I see the added cost as a form of insurance. But not only might it save me money, it could prevent a life altering change.

I did buy mine from a local dealer, same price. There was one hardware pack missing from the box. Dealer ran it right out to me. Table saws are big heavy things, if you can buy local, it could make like simpler if you have a problem.

-- Clin

View GT350's profile

GT350

371 posts in 2341 days


#34 posted 01-12-2018 06:49 AM

I ordered mine locally and wish I didn’t. My dealer doesn’t deliver so I had to pick it up and figure out how to get it out of my trailer plus it took much longer than just ordering it. I later bought a heavy band saw to replace my old one and the trucking company took a hand truck and rolled it right into my shop, much easier. Also I don’t play guitar but wish I could, I am just not that talented but all of my fingers are important to me for doing other things.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

117615 posts in 3936 days


#35 posted 01-12-2018 10:12 PM

If you’re not going to get a SawStop jump on this one

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/255913

View Chris Cook's profile

Chris Cook

328 posts in 2640 days


#36 posted 01-14-2018 12:31 AM

Well, I have decided to go with SawStop 1-3/4 HP Professional Table Saw. I would say the Shop Fox 1851 has tempted me strongly, especially at the price it’s offered. The safety feature will win this one though, so I’ll pay the extra $1300 for that.

I appreciate everyone’s feedback and will have to make Alder my first cut. :/

-- Chris, "all we are is sawdust in the dust collector""

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a1Jim

117615 posts in 3936 days


#37 posted 01-14-2018 12:37 AM

I’m sure you will enjoy it Chris.

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RDan

100 posts in 2683 days


#38 posted 01-14-2018 04:52 AM

Chris, you will be happy with the PCS. I love mine. It took me almost 2 years to get the power hooked up on my 3 hp. It was worth the wait, but the 1 3/4 hp might have been the better option. It has been super accurate in set up and use. I did buy the Jessum Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides, to add a safety against kick back. They work very well. I would mount them with mag jigs though. Dave Stanton woodworking, did this. Of course I saw the video right after I mounted mine. I will be changing them over soon. Enjoy the saw. Dan

View GT350's profile

GT350

371 posts in 2341 days


#39 posted 01-14-2018 05:36 AM

Chris, you’ll like it, I have had mine for 2 or 3 years and haven’t regretted my purchase once. The only problem I had was one time I didn’t twist the handle that holds the cartridge in all the way and it kicked out an error code until I figured it out and I have never set it off. If you are going to use a dado blade just make sure and order a cartridge for that.

View Chris Cook's profile

Chris Cook

328 posts in 2640 days


#40 posted 01-23-2018 11:10 PM

Again, thanks for all the input…one more question. Going from a Rigid R4512 to the SS Professional 1.75 cabinet saw, I suppose I will have to create new or modify my sleds?

Does anyone have the distance of the blade center relative tot he mitre slot centers?. I can’t fins a drawing that has it.

p.s. I found the manual and it is very very good, it has MANY dimensions including the miter slots details. It does not show the distance from blade center to miter slot center, unless I am missing it.

http://www.sawstop.com/images/uploads/manuals/PCSOwnersManualModelPCS175V2.009-13.pdf

-- Chris, "all we are is sawdust in the dust collector""

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