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View jklingel's profile

Trouble with new diamond plates

by jklingel
posted 01-10-2018 02:16 AM


10 replies so far

View GAwoodworker's profile

GAwoodworker

37 posts in 1328 days


#1 posted 01-10-2018 04:00 AM

I have run into the exact same problem with a new DMT Extra Fine that I bought. After a few uses, it seems as if diamonds came dislodged and scratched across the surface of the plate and re-embedded themselves. The result is a sharpening plate that has big scratches in the surface that gouge into what ever I am sharpening. It damages the edge of an iron when I am sharpening. I just stop at the Fine plate now and will probably get some shapton stones in the future. The other day, I used a friend’s diamond plates that he has had for 15+ years and got a massively different outcome when comparing them to mine. My new Fine plate was dramatically rougher than his Coarse plate, and he said he’s barely used it in 10+ years. We were both dumb founded. Even if he did use it a lot, massive wear on his plate still couldn’t amount to the differences we were seeing. I think the recent production in the past couple years has dramatically cheapened and quality control has gone down. I’ll be watching to see what other people say!
PS – I always flatten soles on sandpaper and a flat surface. Haven’t taken them to my plates yet. Only irons touch my pates.

View jklingel's profile

jklingel

107 posts in 1717 days


#2 posted 01-10-2018 06:23 AM

GA: That is discouraging, but thanks for letting me know. I am going to contact DMT, fwiw. I don’t know who made the cheaper 3 plates; I’ll have to look in some catalogs and see from whom I bought them. Cheers. j

View Andre's profile

Andre

2881 posts in 2366 days


#3 posted 01-10-2018 06:40 AM

I would never use any type of stone on the sole of a plane, 180 -220 grit sandpaper on flat surface, I use the self adhesive stuff for auto body work, stick it on the top of the jointer.

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View jklingel's profile

jklingel

107 posts in 1717 days


#4 posted 01-10-2018 07:01 AM

from my first experience, i think i will avoid diamond plates in the future. if 220 grit is enough, then that is what i will do next time (maybe 320. super smooth looks so good….) i guess i got a bit carried away going to 4000 grit…..but, it looked so nice…. until a diamond or two got loose and scratched it! dang….

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1021 posts in 2846 days


#5 posted 01-10-2018 10:14 AM

Have used my five DMT DiaSharp stones for several years with no problems. YMMV, I guess.

-- John, BC, Canada

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

1147 posts in 1152 days


#6 posted 01-10-2018 12:19 PM

Yes, you should use diamond plates for a few hours on some cheaper tools or just a piece of steel.Out of 4 DMT plates I have one came pregrinded , probably it was the highest grit, do not remember. I used the rest to hone the iron of some cheap stanley plane and some old chisels before switching to the new planes.

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1243 posts in 2555 days


#7 posted 01-10-2018 02:05 PM

I am not super happy with my diamond plates. I have a DMT coarse, and fine. I did not have the same issues you are having, but after restoring a few plane blades the coarse is almost worn out. It feels very smooth now and cuts slower than it did when I got it. I tried cleaning it etc but no help. I probably should have used sandpaper for those tasks in hindsight, but still I feel it should last longer. The fine stone is still good. No real issues with it I guess, other than it is probably a little more coarse than you really need for a first Sharpening step.

I will probably go to splash and go water stones at some point.

Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View JayT's profile

JayT

6325 posts in 2771 days


#8 posted 01-10-2018 05:09 PM

Diamond plates do have a break-in period where they cut more aggressively than the grit until some of the diamonds fracture and settle in. I’ve been using EZE-Lap plates for several years now and am very happy with them. Took sharpening half a dozen plane irons or so before they broke in and then have performed admirably since.

When doing plane restorations, however, I use sandpaper rolls on granite. More for the length than to save the sharpening plates. I usually stop at 220 for users. Any more than that is just extra effort for no performance gain. If you want to use higher grits to get a mirror finish because that’s the look you want, have at it, just don’t expect the plane to work any better.

-- https://www.jtplaneworks.com - In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View jklingel's profile

jklingel

107 posts in 1717 days


#9 posted 01-10-2018 05:51 PM

ok, thanks all for sharing your experiences. j

View jklingel's profile

jklingel

107 posts in 1717 days


#10 posted 01-12-2018 05:29 AM

just a fwiw. i took the diamond plates out today and ran the backside of some of the plates over the ends (diamond side up) of each plate. i found that the problem areas were really very small, and primarily right in the corners. as i ground the backside of a plate against the diamonds of another plate, i could see wear on the diamond face in areas that were mostly about 1/16” long and maybe 1/32” wide. one bad spot was about 1/32×1/32; a very nasty corner. possibly, areas the manufacturer never intended or expected anyone to use. i got very little gouging anywhere else, until i lifted the being-beat-up plate to “bevel” the diamond face, as i wanted to make sure the bad spots were removed completely. i did not run a plane over any plates to check. i think i learned my lesson on that deal. anyway, the plates appear to be very usable for what i gather is their intended purpose; sharpening chisels and blades…. and very large fishing hooks. seriously; if you don’t have a file/stone/diamond file in your tackle box, you better get one. those hooks need to dig into your fingernail nicely to be usable. but, i digress…..

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