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View onoitsmatt's profile

Shop flooring

by onoitsmatt
posted 01-06-2018 05:22 PM


25 replies so far

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

3882 posts in 4685 days


#1 posted 01-06-2018 05:35 PM

Another option is 2×2’s on the floor with sheeting on top. You actually don’t even have to anchor the 2×2’s if you’ve got a flat floor. Or you can. Then put a coat of water base porch and deck. Tough and durable. The slab floor in my house is done this way (anchored) and it’s been great for decades.

For a very solid and non bouncy effect if you do this is to use edge locking floor sheeting or put a double layer across seams.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7933 posts in 4161 days


#2 posted 01-06-2018 05:50 PM

I use these rubber stall mats around my workbench. Stiffer than what you pictured above.

4 ft. x 6 ft. x 3/4 in. Thick Rubber Stall Mat
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/4-ft-x-6-ft-x-3-4-in-thick-rubber-stall-mat-2219003

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1319 posts in 2787 days


#3 posted 01-06-2018 06:04 PM

How about the ones Marc Spagnuolo uses? They’re 8mm thick solid rubber tiles. I’m actually debating on getting them myself. It’s just a matter of budgeting as a full 20×20 garage can get expensive.

Rubber Flooring Inc

View Combo Prof's profile

Combo Prof

4698 posts in 2525 days


#4 posted 01-06-2018 06:47 PM

What I am doing now is to lay 1.5 inch thick foam insulation board on the concrete with a border of pressure treated 2 by 4 or shop wall. On top of the foam board goes a plastic sheet for a moisture barrier. Then a first layer of 4’ by 8’ of 1/2 inch thick underlayment running north-south. Then a second layer of 4’ by 8’ of 1/2 inch thick underlayment running east-west. The two layers are then screwed together. Having thought about shop floors for a long time I think this is the best afordable option.

-- Don K, (Holland, Michigan)

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7933 posts in 4161 days


#5 posted 01-06-2018 06:50 PM


How about the ones Marc Spagnuolo uses? They re 8mm thick solid rubber tiles. I m actually debating on getting them myself. It s just a matter of budgeting as a full 20×20 garage can get expensive.
Rubber Flooring Inc
- Rayne

I think you have actually identified the second of TWO issues.
  • The work space immediately surrounding your workbench, and
  • the rest of the flooring in the shop.

IMO, one would not be using their handplanes in/at all places in the shop. Plus it would be easy enough to dedicate hand-tool “safe zones” when using them.

As for rubber mat throughout the shop, I can already attest at how difficult it is to move “mobile” machines over any of these vulcanized particle rubber mats.

Between my router and TS, I use a 1/4in solid rubber mat. Not very flexible, but it can save things like chisels, hammers, wrenches, etc. And it is easier to roll machines on. Note: No longer sold by TSC, so no link available.

Under 1/4 of my shop, I have plastic “RaceDeck” installed, for when working on the Harley.

As far as saving more fragile handtools such as planes and the like, the 3/4in stuff I linked above, is about as good as one could get (and that stuff is not perfect either).

Below you can see all three types of flooring in place. From left to right:
  • 1/4in solid rubber
  • 3/4in Horse stall pad
  • RaceDeck flooring

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View JayCee123's profile

JayCee123

200 posts in 2012 days


#6 posted 01-06-2018 08:07 PM

You have a legitimate concern. I position similar foam pads in front of my work benches and stationary tools where I may spend considerable time standing. They are much better on my legs and back then the concrete floor. I wish I could run them throughout the shop, but as pointed out previously they are not compatible with some of my mobile power equipment.

View unclearthur's profile

unclearthur

387 posts in 3035 days


#7 posted 01-07-2018 08:08 AM

Another option is tongue and groove subloor panels (like dricore) with a layer of cheap 1/4 or 3/8” plywood sheathing on top. Good insulation, water tolerant, soft underfoot and if you destroy part of the flloor you can just replace that piece of sheathing. Dricore is a bit expensive but fast and easy and strong.

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

10416 posts in 3656 days


#8 posted 01-07-2018 03:29 PM

Several good ideas and tips on this thread, Thanks for those who posted. It gave me something to consider for future shop upgrade.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View onoitsmatt's profile

onoitsmatt

451 posts in 2423 days


#9 posted 01-07-2018 04:37 PM



Several good ideas and tips on this thread, Thanks for those who posted. It gave me something to consider for future shop upgrade.

- woodbutcherbynight

+1. Thanks everyone for your thoughtful input!

-- Matt - Phoenix, AZ

View Myles Standridge's profile

Myles Standridge

126 posts in 4190 days


#10 posted 01-21-2018 05:28 PM

I live in Northern AZ at 6700 ft elevation so I just bought some but more to keep my feet from getting cold.

DON’T BUY HARBOR FREIGHT INTERLOCKING “FOAMY TILES!!!

I bought two packages at the Show Low store and decided they work for my purpose so I decided to buy four more packages (2 ft x 2ft). We live ~35 miles from the Show Low store so I didn’t rush down there for more. We were in Flagstaff last week so I bought four more.

They are different, even between the four packages I just bougt!! The “dovetails” are slightly different spacing, slightly different thicknesses, enough to make them pucker and create a tripping hazard, especially if you want to have them more than one width.

As a four foot square as shown on the package or four pieces in a row then OK but otherwise it’s a crap shoot.

Myles

Maybe I’ll post a review on this site.

View Combo Prof's profile

Combo Prof

4698 posts in 2525 days


#11 posted 01-21-2018 05:53 PM

It would probably be better if foam tiles were sold square without the interlocking tabs. You would secure them together on the back with some strong tape. Perhaps carpet tape. Perhaps a glue on the edge.

-- Don K, (Holland, Michigan)

View Knockonit's profile

Knockonit

987 posts in 1449 days


#12 posted 01-22-2018 03:35 PM

i just picked up some matts at costco, as my wife had one at kitchen sink, and i liked the thickness and softness of it.

they are about 4 ft long, i’d and at least 22 inches wide, tapered on edges so no absolute edge to stub toe on, and about and 1 inch thick, easy to pick up.
As everything in my shop is on wheels, i used one a bit yesterday whilst standing at band saw making some scrap, and it was a pleasure, as before i was standing either on concrete or a chunk of used carpet i have around for setting pcs on so as not to mar them.
wanna say the pads were less than 20 a piece. i picked up several to see how they work, as mentioned, easy to move around. to stations used.
good luck with it
Rj

-- Living the dream

View Robert's profile

Robert

4747 posts in 2728 days


#13 posted 01-22-2018 03:53 PM

Yes I use them and they are ok cheapest way to go. Advantage of interlocking pads are you can customize the layout very easily. I get the ones Sam’s sells.

Keep in mind horse stall or trailer pads are quite stiff and not anti fatigue. And expensive.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View IantheTinker's profile

IantheTinker

285 posts in 1374 days


#14 posted 01-22-2018 08:30 PM

I have a low-pile carpet in most of my shop, it was there when I moved in. I wasn’t sure about it at first but it is actually quite nice. It protects my bladed tools and the wood chips don’t get stuck in it too much. I use a broom and old vacuum to clean up.

-- pensivewoodworker.com

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

17534 posts in 3866 days


#15 posted 01-22-2018 08:39 PM

Wood floor, if you can.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. - OldTools Archive -

View clin's profile

clin

1128 posts in 2243 days


#16 posted 01-23-2018 12:02 AM

I used PVC tiles on mine. Would have done wood if the floor was flat, but it was part of my garage and was flat on one end, then a sharp break to a slope for drainage.

The PVC tiles come in a range of price (thicker is more expensive). I got the expensive ones running about $6/sq-ft, so not cheap. Most click or snap together someway. Some have an interlock like the foam tiles the OP showed. Mine interlock, but it’s hidden, so you have a straight seam between tiles.

I got the coin pattern for good traction. The floor has a nice give to it so is easy on the feet. but plenty stiff enough I can roll my table saw around on it’s mobile base.

Another option is the PVC garage mats. These are large rolls of PVC flooring. Much thinner than the tiles, but an option.

https://www.garageflooringinc.com/soft-pvc-tiles.html

-- Clin

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1319 posts in 2787 days


#17 posted 01-23-2018 12:58 AM



I used PVC tiles on mine. Would have done wood if the floor was flat, but it was part of my garage and was flat on one end, then a sharp break to a slope for drainage.

The PVC tiles come in a range of price (thicker is more expensive). I got the expensive ones running about $6/sq-ft, so not cheap. Most click or snap together someway. Some have an interlock like the foam tiles the OP showed. Mine interlock, but it s hidden, so you have a straight seam between tiles.

I got the coin pattern for good traction. The floor has a nice give to it so is easy on the feet. but plenty stiff enough I can roll my table saw around on it s mobile base.

Another option is the PVC garage mats. These are large rolls of PVC flooring. Much thinner than the tiles, but an option.

https://www.garageflooringinc.com/soft-pvc-tiles.html

- clin


Love this alternative, but holy smokes, it’s more expensive than rubber. It would need to be 50% off for me to consider for myself.

View pontic's profile

pontic

851 posts in 1856 days


#18 posted 01-23-2018 02:07 AM



I use these rubber stall mats around my workbench. Stiffer than what you pictured above.

4 ft. x 6 ft. x 3/4 in. Thick Rubber Stall Mat
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/4-ft-x-6-ft-x-3-4-in-thick-rubber-stall-mat-2219003

- HorizontalMike

I use the same much more durable and cheaper. Got mine from tractor supply. Takes a lot of vibration out of the stationary tools.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

7999 posts in 2635 days


#19 posted 01-23-2018 03:08 AM

I have some cheap Harbor Freight interlocking Mats and they do help protect tools and edges if you drop them. They also help keep the floor warmer in winter and also help reduce fatigue.

Two things to consider: If you cut metal with an angle grinder, for example, just be aware that hot piece of metal will melt right through them. Also note that dropped tools may also bounce. I had a chisel fall and hit handle first and it bounced up and sliced my leg. No stitches required but it was nice and sharp and left a nice gash.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View AxkMan's profile

AxkMan

65 posts in 1374 days


#20 posted 01-23-2018 11:32 PM

I agree with smithy. Wood shops are worthy of wood floors. If you need an easy option, go with laminate. They clean stains and everything remarkably well. Optionally you can use melanine.

View Robinson's profile

Robinson

52 posts in 3940 days


#21 posted 01-25-2018 02:43 AM

I had made my basement shop 24’ x 40’ but I have been adding more basement space to it and it is now 36’ x 40’. I guess I am pretty much stuck with concrete… I can’t begin to afford to cover the whole floor with much of anything. I also have about everything but me and the main bench on casters and move stuff around a lot. I do have a smallish batch of rubber tiles for right at the bench. I am going the other direction… I’m buying new “wood shop shoes” this week, thick spongy soles, lots of soft support.
I owned and operated a shoe repair shop for 20 years so I know what to buy.
On a side note: Early shoes normally had leather stacked heels, very hard and unforgiving. A man named O’Sullivan who operated big huge printing presses had a thick rubber mat that he put in front of his press to stand on. Other guys in the plant kept stealing his mat. His answer was to cut pieces out of his mat and nail onto his shoes for heels. It caught on and he is credited with inventing the rubber shoe heel.
I actually have a pair of shoes that are super comfortable to stand in but they are a pretty dense sole and steel toes and are quite heavy. I wear them a lot out around the farm and working with the horses but I like something lighter for in the shop. I’m pretty heavy and I don’t need something heavy to hold me down. :-)

.

-- Francis Robinson, Central Indiana, USA - - Shopsmith fanatic

View Bill Berklich's profile

Bill Berklich

1224 posts in 1636 days


#22 posted 01-25-2018 11:50 AM

Wood is really cool and very traditional but another option is vinyl planking. Wears like iron, forgiving on the tools, easy to clean, impervious to oil/salt/grease, and looks good. It is NOT for metal working though. Good luck and post pics.

-- Bill - Rochester MI

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

6048 posts in 3599 days


#23 posted 01-25-2018 02:53 PM

I’m doing mine now, using dricore panels. It is expensive but not excessive, and super easy and fast to put down. Two days in and I am 1/3 done. I’ve spent more time moving machines and benches than actually laying the panels.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

3805 posts in 4191 days


#24 posted 01-25-2018 05:34 PM

I use the ones Horizontal Mike uses too. I buy them at horsey supply places. I pay forty and tax. Currently, I have about seven of them in the main work area and I plan on adding that many more.

That one inch of rubber makes a HUGE difference at the end of the day. Without them, the concrete would beat me down in a few hours. With them, being in the shop all day is not big deal at all.

I’ve dropped more than one thing on them, and I can’t think of one thing that was damaged for it. Had it been concrete, even a few of my nice hand tools would show the hit.

Then there is that the concrete was done long before insulating under it was a consideration. I suspect the one inch of rubber goes a long ways to insulating the shop from the cold concrete.

Finally, there is that 1” of rubber does a good job of isolating me from pretending to be a source of ground/short when working electronics projects.

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1319 posts in 2787 days


#25 posted 01-25-2018 05:52 PM



I m doing mine now, using dricore panels. It is expensive but not excessive, and super easy and fast to put down. Two days in and I am 1/3 done. I ve spent more time moving machines and benches than actually laying the panels.

- bondogaposis


Are those things pre-finished? It’s really shiny in your pics.

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