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View SoleInvictus's profile

I have Makita 2030 parts for sale!

by SoleInvictus
posted 10-11-2017 02:51 AM


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58 replies

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View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#1 posted 10-24-2017 03:42 AM

The main things I need are the chain Tensioner, rollers, and maybe the chain cover. I need to check and see how much it is to get the rollers recovered. How much would you be asking for those items.

View SoleInvictus's profile

SoleInvictus

16 posts in 1112 days


#2 posted 10-24-2017 04:07 AM

I’d recommend Western Roller for the roller recovery, they’re the best price I found (About $200 for both) and they get glowing reviews from everyone I’ve talked to. I have both roller cores and they’re in great shape; however, the roller material, as you can see, is trashed. How about $20 a pop on the roller cores, for a total of $40 for both? I’ll even pry the old gunk off for you.

As far as the chain cover goes, are you looking for A or B? If you look at the following website, A is figure number 2 part number 164459-6; B is figure number 5, part number 343302-4 – https://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-2030-type-1234-planerjointer-parts-c-97_156_24247.html

For the tensioner, just to make sure, are we talking part number 163112-1? If so, I’d ask $30 and I’ll throw in the retaining clip if you need it. You’ll still want to get a new spring, I’m 99% sure this unit still has the original.

I’ll get you the price of shipping from the USPS, UPS, or whatever is cheapest. I won’t mark you up on shipping because 1) that feels skeezy and 2) I have boxes coming out of my ears.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8238 posts in 3079 days


#3 posted 10-24-2017 04:41 AM

Another recommendation for Western Roller here as well. IIRC, it was around $175 for both including shipping. They even called me a week or so after shipping them back to me to make sure I was happy with the work. The newer material is much better than the originals and should last a lifetime. Here is what the originals and the re-covered rollers look like:

As for the tensioner spring, you can still get them new at places like ereplacementparts.com for a few bucks.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#4 posted 10-24-2017 05:00 AM

That would be Chain cover A (part number 164459-6) the outer cover. I Know I can get that new for 20 dollars. I already priced that one. I am good with the rest of the prices $40 for the rollers and $30 for the chain tensioner.

MrUnix, I’m not sure if you saw it but I posted to you on another post asking where you got your chain tensioner. I guess you can ignore that one.

Brad M.

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RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#5 posted 10-24-2017 04:04 PM

I just read what I posted last night and realized I was not clear on the cover. Sorry about that. I am still interested in the cover Part number 164459-6 (the outer cover) which I believe is Cover B. Will you take $10 for it? Also is there a washer that goes behind the tensioner assembly? Does it go washer, tensioner, C-clip, main drive sprocket, then C-clip? Or just tensioner, C-clip, main drive sprocket, then C-clip? Looking at the parts breakdown there is item number 27 Flat Washer but it is under illustration “B”. I think it goes on the inside of the main assembly but I am not sure.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8238 posts in 3079 days


#6 posted 10-24-2017 04:36 PM

Also is there a washer that goes behind the tensioner assembly?
...
Looking at the parts breakdown there is item number 27 Flat Washer but it is under illustration “B”. I think it goes on the inside of the main assembly but I am not sure.

There is no washer under the tensioner.. it sits on a shoulder machined into the casting and is secured by the C-clip. Not sure what parts diagram you are looking at, but I believe the washer you are talking about is behind the gear housing cover. Here are the relevant parts associated with the tensioner and drive gear:

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#7 posted 10-24-2017 04:54 PM

Thanks. It was E Replacement Parts but your picture is much clearer than what I was looking at on line.

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#8 posted 10-24-2017 05:00 PM

It would be item number 60 for the diagram you have. Again Thanks

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8238 posts in 3079 days


#9 posted 10-24-2017 07:37 PM

It would be item number 60 for the diagram you have. Again Thanks
- RookieWood

Yup, that goes on the drive shaft behind the gearbox cover and is not accessible from the front where the tension lever is located. Here are the parts inside the gear box after just opening it up (before cleaning). The washer you mention can be seen in the upper right on the drive shaft:

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#10 posted 10-24-2017 07:55 PM

Thanks, Appreciate all the help

Brad M

View SoleInvictus's profile

SoleInvictus

16 posts in 1112 days


#11 posted 10-26-2017 01:41 AM

Hi again RookieWood,

Sounds like the whole washer situation is hashed out! Do you need the c-clip for the tensioner? I’ll throw it in for free if you do.

View Sarit's profile

Sarit

552 posts in 4020 days


#12 posted 10-26-2017 02:24 AM

I have a 2040 I’m rebuilding (eventually) I’ll have to see if the parts I’m missing are the same as on the 2030.

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#13 posted 10-26-2017 06:22 AM

Thanks, I could use the c-clip. Are you good with $10 for the cover?

View SoleInvictus's profile

SoleInvictus

16 posts in 1112 days


#14 posted 10-26-2017 04:58 PM

Oops, I forgot about the cover. How about $15? Either way, I’ll take a look tomorrow and see if I can make this all fit into a flat rate priority mail box; it’ll be a fair bit cheaper that way.

I’m not sure if you’ll need them but I’m throwing in the woodruff keys (254001-2) and c-clips (961052-5) for the rollers. Are you good on plane bearings (214152-3), metal covers ( 341685-6 and 343844-8), and sprockets (221503-3) for the drive rollers? I have everything but the pan head screws for the roller assembly (a few got chewed up so I tossed ‘em).

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#15 posted 10-26-2017 05:45 PM

The story behind my planer is I picked it up dirt cheap because somehow a previous owner brock off the sprocket end shaft on the left roller. He gave the machine to someone that then sold it to me to rebuild. He was not sure how it brock off. Because I was missing the chain, sprocket, and tensioner I planned on replacing the sprockets with the chain. So I had already ordered the small “cheaper” stuff like the roller bearing metal cover that was missing and screw. I did not think about replacing the roller bearings. Educate me! How are the bearing on this machine? Is it something I should go through the machine and re-lube them all up? Are they sealed bearing? Once again asking for advice.

Brad M

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8238 posts in 3079 days


#16 posted 10-26-2017 05:59 PM

The feed rollers are in plain bearings. Easy to tell if they are in good shape, and should be greased to prevent wear. Here are what the bearings, springs and retainers look like:

Here is what they look like installed:

Note the socket head screws in the first picture… those are the recommended replacements, as the OEM screws are a royal PITA to use and more often than not get buggered up taking them out.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#17 posted 10-26-2017 06:02 PM

Thanks. It is obvious you know the 2030 very well. Are there any other bearings I should worry about lubing on a regular bases.

Brad M

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8238 posts in 3079 days


#18 posted 10-26-2017 07:15 PM

Thanks. It is obvious you know the 2030 very well. Are there any other bearings I should worry about lubing on a regular bases.
- RookieWood

LOL – yeah… I have two of them. One bought in pristine condition and the other in horrible shape that got completely torn apart and is in the final stages of restoration.

The only other bearings on the machine are sealed radial ball bearings. There are 8 in total… two in the motor, two for the jointer cutter head, two for the planer cutter head, and two more in the gear box. All are pretty easy to replace if you have the machine apart, except for one in the gear box. You can see it in the picture I posted above, in the lower left hand corner of the gear box cover… it’s in a blind hole, so you can’t drive it out from behind. It does come out pretty easily using the hydraulic method though.

They are all pretty standard bearings, and IIRC, cost around $25 + shipping for all of them from Accurate Bearing. Given the condition of your machine, I’d recommend replacing them now that you have it apart. Consider it cheap insurance :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#19 posted 10-26-2017 08:20 PM

Thanks. Your blue machine looks outstanding. The reason I was asking it sometimes a person gets in more trouble trying to change a bearing when they are sealed and designed to last the life of the machine. Was that $25 for all 8?

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8238 posts in 3079 days


#20 posted 10-26-2017 09:10 PM

Yup… it was $24.90 for all 8 bearings which included $4.65 shipping from Accurate Bearing a few years ago when I bought them (and I doubt they have gone up much since then). And there is no such thing as ‘sealed for the life of the machine’... just sealed for the life of the bearing – and they have a service life, even sitting idle on the shelf. For example, SKF states they should not be stored for any longer than three years, and that is under ideal conditions! I usually consider anything over around 10 years as ready for replacement – it’s just part of good machine maintenance as they are considered consumables.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#21 posted 10-26-2017 09:32 PM

Again Thanks. I will add them to the list. 30 bucks now is way better than who knows how much latter.

Brad M

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#22 posted 10-31-2017 02:13 AM

MrUnix. Thanks for the info on Accurate Bearing. They are good. I ordered the bearings on Tuesday or Wednesday and got them today. Shipping to me ended up being 8ish dollars and the bearings went up a little but still it was just under $40 shipping and all. The price makes it well worth the insurance.

Brad M

View MP3Hubs's profile

MP3Hubs

1 post in 1088 days


#23 posted 10-31-2017 10:27 AM

The main things I need are the chain Tensioner, rollers, and maybe the chain cover. I need to check and see how much it is to get the rollers recovered. How much would you be asking for those items

-- https://mp3flows.com

View Sarit's profile

Sarit

552 posts in 4020 days


#24 posted 10-31-2017 09:05 PM


Note the socket head screws in the first picture… those are the recommended replacements, as the OEM screws are a royal PITA to use and more often than not get buggered up taking them out.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix

+1 here. Definitely replace those screws w/ socket caps. Nearly impossible to get them out when they start stripping.

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#25 posted 10-31-2017 11:11 PM

Thanks for the advice.

Brad M

View SoleInvictus's profile

SoleInvictus

16 posts in 1112 days


#26 posted 11-04-2017 05:06 PM


The main things I need are the chain Tensioner, rollers, and maybe the chain cover. I need to check and see how much it is to get the rollers recovered. How much would you be asking for those items

- MP3Hubs

Hey MP3Hubs, sorry I missed your post, it got lost in the middle there. The tensioner and rollers are spoken for. Were you looking for chain cover A or B? B is also spoken for but A is still available.

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#27 posted 12-15-2017 03:55 AM

Ok here is a question for those of you that now the Makita 2030 inside and out. What is the actual color of the 2030. It isn’t overly important but I was trying to restore the original look. Having said that, MrUnix I love how you made yours the Makita blue. It looks good.

Brad M

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8238 posts in 3079 days


#28 posted 12-15-2017 04:11 AM

Both of mine were/are a sort of a dirty hammered gold color. The one that was pretty bad off got a restore and turned blue, but the other one has its original and unmolested paint… I don’t have a picture of it, but here is one found on the web that shows the color:

Or this one:

I’ve also seen a few pictures of them in a somewhat muted greenish color, but never seen one in person, and am not sure if that was from the factory or not.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#29 posted 12-15-2017 03:07 PM

MrUnix, Thanks, Mine is the hammered goldish brown color (same as in your pictures). I am no artist so I don’t know all these colors but I was hoping someone might know what it is actually called or even a color number for a rattle can. That reminds me, when you painted yours blue did you use rattle cans?

Brad M

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RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#30 posted 12-16-2017 05:06 PM

Gents, I am trying to change out the motor bearings and can’t seem to figure out how. First how does the V pulley come off. Obviously once I get the motor apart I will be able to press the bearing out and in but I cant seem to get this motor apart. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Brad M.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8238 posts in 3079 days


#31 posted 12-16-2017 07:50 PM

Pulley is threaded, so it just unscrews. Motor is cracked open by removing the three screws that hold on the end bell/bearing housing (other side is not removable) and pulling the rotor out. Bearings are slip fit and held in place with some little rubber plugs – they are easy to remove and a press is not required. Here are the parts associated with the motor:

Cheers,
Brad

PS: Yes, I rattle canned this one, which is unusual for me. I usually will brush or use my cheap HF purple HVLP gun.

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View LJD4662's profile

LJD4662

35 posts in 2581 days


#32 posted 12-17-2017 01:07 PM

I would like to buy the little gauge pin that indicates depth of cut if you still have it. I cannot tell the number from the parts diagram but I see it in your pictures.

Layne

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#33 posted 12-19-2017 10:03 PM

Gents,

Restoration is going really good but I have a question about rust on my columns. Over all mine are in pretty good shape but there is a little bit of rust on them. Did you have rust on yours and if so what did you do to address the rust? Normally I would sand and paint but being as these are polished I am not sure how to address it.

Brad M

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8238 posts in 3079 days


#34 posted 12-20-2017 12:09 AM

Did you have rust on yours and if so what did you do to address the rust?

There are a lot of ways to get rid of rust depending on how adventurous you want to be. Evaporust, electrolysis, wire wheel in a drill, turned on a lathe, citric acid, vinegar, molasses, etc…

One of mine was really bad off and pretty badly pitted. Fortunately, the post bellows will cover that up so I don’t have to look at it – it still works fine, just butt ugly :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#35 posted 12-20-2017 01:44 AM

Thanks. Mine will be covered up by the bellows as well and they work just fine. Just the anal retentive side of me want to fix everything and return to like new. Having said that I may have to just let the bellows hide it.

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#36 posted 12-21-2017 09:29 PM

Gents, More help needed. I am looking for the type of grease that I should use inside the Gear box. Seam like MrUnix or SoleInvictus told me but I don’t remember what it was and I don’t see it in any of the threads.
Any help would be appreciated.

Brad M

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8238 posts in 3079 days


#37 posted 12-21-2017 10:16 PM

Gents, More help needed. I am looking for the type of grease that I should use inside the Gear box. Seam like MrUnix or SoleInvictus told me but I don t remember what it was and I don t see it in any of the threads.
Any help would be appreciated.
- RookieWood

I never could find any spec from Makita for the grease, so I just used some wheel bearing grease I had out in the garage (the red stuff).

Thanks. Mine will be covered up by the bellows as well and they work just fine. Just the anal retentive side of me want to fix everything and return to like new. Having said that I may have to just let the bellows hide it.
- RookieWood

You can’t put back metal that has been removed by rust… although electrolysis will convert some of the black rust (ferric oxide or more commonly known as magnitite) back to metal if you do it right… just not the red (iron oxide) rust – that stuff is gone. Mine were pretty badly pitted and the bellows were long since gone, so I was just going to have to live with it until I got lucky and another LJ member found me a source for some new bellows :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Jtharp's profile

Jtharp

1 post in 1019 days


#38 posted 01-08-2018 07:59 AM

Parts wanted: Motor. Does it run? Does it make any weird noise on start up? How much?

Ps where are you located? Im interested in whole machine possibly.

View maralb's profile

maralb

7 posts in 1016 days


#39 posted 01-11-2018 05:46 AM

I need the Motor, 4 planer drum covers (345146-8), 2 jointer drum covers and Chain Cover.

Marco A.

-- Marco.

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maralb

7 posts in 1016 days


#40 posted 01-12-2018 03:06 AM



I need the Motor, 4 planer drum covers (345146-8), 2 jointer drum covers and Chain Cover.

Marco A.

- maralb


-- Marco.

View Kennie's profile

Kennie

6 posts in 1509 days


#41 posted 01-26-2018 01:04 AM

I am in need of the table hight hand wheel – do you still have it? I just got a 2030 and I have to admit I am not very familiar with the operation. It runs but needs the wheel. I got it for nothing from a guy who just wanted it our of his garage so I need to clean it up. But he started it up and ran a piece of wood through the joiner without any problem. Let me know if you have the hand wheel. Thanks, Ken

-- Kenny from AZ

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#42 posted 01-26-2018 01:07 AM

Lucky you if you got it free and it runs. I am currently restoring one. Good machines. I am not saying that he doesn’t have one but like I said I am restoring one and got a wheel from him.

Brad M

View SoleInvictus's profile

SoleInvictus

16 posts in 1112 days


#43 posted 01-26-2018 01:20 AM

Hey Kenny,

The hand wheel is gone, sorry!


I am in need of the table hight hand wheel – do you still have it? I just got a 2030 and I have to admit I am not very familiar with the operation. It runs but needs the wheel. I got it for nothing from a guy who just wanted it our of his garage so I need to clean it up. But he started it up and ran a piece of wood through the joiner without any problem. Let me know if you have the hand wheel. Thanks, Ken

- Kennie


View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8238 posts in 3079 days


#44 posted 01-26-2018 01:54 AM

I am in need of the table hight hand wheel – do you still have it? I just got a 2030 and I have to admit I am not very familiar with the operation. It runs but needs the wheel.
- Kennie

According to this thread (Makita 2030 Restoration), the handwheel from a 2040 will fit, which it appears most of the aftermarket suppliers still have in stock. I didn’t want another plastic one, so I just made one out of hardwood (red oak), complete with the little spinner handle:

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Kennie's profile

Kennie

6 posts in 1509 days


#45 posted 01-26-2018 03:07 AM

Thanks everyone

-- Kenny from AZ

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#46 posted 01-26-2018 02:35 PM

MrUnix / SoleInvictus, I should get my rollers back next week and I will be a blade sharpening away from completing my restoration. Once I figure out how I will post some pics on here. I noticed the hole is offset for the block bearing for the rollers. Off the top of your head do you know which way they go in? I am assuming thicker portion to the top? Thanks everyone for all the help during the restoration.

Brad M

View SoleInvictus's profile

SoleInvictus

16 posts in 1112 days


#47 posted 01-30-2018 01:21 AM



I noticed the hole is offset for the block bearing for the rollers. Off the top of your head do you know which way they go in? I am assuming thicker portion to the top?

Hey Brad M,

That’s awesome, glad to hear it!

Sorry to say, I can’t remember and the rollers are out (obviously, you have them now). I do have one terrible, blurry picture that indicates thicker portion on top so I think you’re right. Any confirmation, MrUnix?

Angelo

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8238 posts in 3079 days


#48 posted 01-30-2018 01:43 AM

It’s not very much of a difference so I doubt it matters much, just as long as they are all oriented the same way. Post #15 up above has a picture of one of mine, and the thicker part is on the bottom FWIW.

I know at least one owner flipped them over when one side got worn, and they still worked just fine.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View RookieWood's profile

RookieWood

39 posts in 1732 days


#49 posted 01-30-2018 02:28 AM

Thanks for the help and I doubt it makes much difference. I will make sure they are all the same. I just figured the pressure comes from the top so I would put the thicker portion up there.

Brad M from AZ.

View maralb's profile

maralb

7 posts in 1016 days


#50 posted 02-10-2018 02:28 AM

How much for the motor and the 2 drum covers. part number 345146-8 and if I can pay by PayPal. including Shipping to Miami.
Thank. Marco Alberto.

-- Marco.

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