am making a cedar coffee table with a waterfall edge which requires me to cut to 45 on a 2 inch thick live edge slab of rec cedar. im using a dewalt 7 1/4 circular saw with a kreig sled system. I would assume a 60 tooth atb blade would do it ok but my friend says a 40 tooth would be better. I would like a splinter free cut but also would like to use the blade later for crosscutting plywood etc. I am confused with hook angle atb high atb reg kerf thin kerf etc. any help would be appreciated
I recently bought a Freud 60t blade for mine at HD for $20 to cut a large butcher block countertop and cut perfectly, i just had to sand with 220 and it was ready to finish.
Full 2" thick stock cut at 45° needs 2" x sqr(2) ~ 2.9" of blade exposure - about the 3" max on a 10" TS.
Ain't gonna work. 7-1/4" saw isn't going to cut almost 3" depth with ANY blade. Its simply physically impossible.
Set you circ saw to max depth & measure. Now set to 45° at max depth. Set saw on your stock. Notice how blade won't cut thru the full thickness.
You need a bigger/better saw to make that cut.
Also, circ saw is about the worst tool to make a cut with the level of precision you'll need for a clean, straight, tight fitting, 45° angle on a coffee table sized slab.
Its actually a double bevel since you have to recut the offcut.
Rethink your plan or find someone with bigger & better tools.
Just checked the specs on a DeWalt 7-1/4" circ saw. Max depth of cut at 90° is 2-9/16". At 45° depth of cut is only 1-13/16". If its finished "two by" stock (1-1/2" thick) it'll just cut thru. But if your slab is rough (full 2") then you're SOL.
Just checked the specs on a DeWalt 7-1/4" circ saw. Max depth of cut at 90° is 2-9/16". At 45° depth of cut is only 1-13/16". If its finished "two by" stock (1-1/2" thick) it ll just cut thru. But if your slab is rough (full 2") then you re SOL.
That's what it is designed to cut, a 2x piece of stock.
Not being into slab table making I'd say look how they do it to make a waterfall edge table on You tube. Strangely enough what I have seen from them is starting the cut as deep as it would allow with a guided circ saw, or track saw @ 45 degrees. Finishing with a Japanese pull saw. What could possibly go wrong :-0
Not being into slab table making I d say look how they do it to make a waterfall edge table on You tube. Strangely enough what I have seen from them is starting the cut as deep as it would allow with a guided circ saw, or track saw @ 45 degrees. Finishing with a Japanese pull saw. What could possibly go wrong :-0
Not being into slab table making I d say look how they do it to make a waterfall edge table on You tube. Strangely enough what I have seen from them is starting the cut as deep as it would allow with a guided circ saw, or track saw @ 45 degrees. Finishing with a Japanese pull saw. What could possibly go wrong :-0
- therealSteveN
I have one of those Japanese saws…. I would not do well on this project. However how it looks to the eye after sanding and finished is what counts.
Well, if you are only going to see the top corner it won't matter. Lets say the top is exactly 2" and you are able to cut exactly 1 13/16 with the circular saw. This means you just have to cut, chew, or gnaw through that last 13/16" sliver with whatever you have at a 45 or even an angle greater than 45. Even if you accidentally cut it less than 45, 5 minutes with a rasp or file would let the joint seat properly.
Appreciate all the suggestions the slap is 1 7/8 thick i planned on using a track system to guide the saw i like the idea of the Finishing with a Japanese pull saw suggestion the inside edge would not be that important since it would be under the table. I am not considering the use of my table saw with a sled set up. Another consideration is plane the plank down to 1 3/4
Madmark thanks for the heads-up on the depth of cut i didnt think of that.
been thinking…dangerous, I know….but…..complete the cuts on the show side first with the guided circular saw. Next, gently, carefully flip the plank good side down. Maybe add a filler in the kerf. Then set up the guided circular saw to finish the cut….Support for the cut-offs is a requirement. make sure the 2 cuts will line up exactly. You can always clean things up with a hand plane.
That filler in the kerf…provides a bit off support…..it also prevents any binding during the cut.
Support can be a second sawhorse…..with both sections-to-be clamped down to the saw horses. Means you'll need 4 matching saw horses….
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