LumberJocks

Reply by Rich

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Posted on Watco Danish Oil Natural finish is out of stock everywhere

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Rich

6833 posts in 1671 days


#1 posted 03-01-2021 10:12 PM


Possibly so, which is why I included the bench wood and desired finish quality. Polyurethane I have ruled out and from what I understand BLO (my original choice) tends to get sticky over time. Looking for something that will pernitrate a little to allow some spills to be wiped up prior to staining and add color. All ideas are welcome!

- controlfreak

I was being a smartass. I honestly have no idea how it would do for a work bench. Maybe it’d be awesome, but I’m among those who simply don’t like the stuff.

Kenny’s experience with BLO sounds promising. The usual reasons for BLO to be sticky is applying it too thick and adding more coats too soon. Reactive finishes need contact with oxygen, and getting it too thick too soon can inhibit the curing. You can have the same problem with Danish, or most any other reactive finish. Adding Japan drier will greatly reduce the curing time.

I don’t know enough about you or your work bench to tell you what to use, but I can share my experience when I sanded and refinished my birch top a while back. I chose OSMO Polyx-Oil based on its reputation for being durable and easy to repair. My experience with it since then has been overwhelmingly positive. It was easy to apply. I’ve had glue—PVA, epoxy and protein glue—dry on it and all of them popped right off. Once I spilled a few drops of undiluted TransTint and was unable to wipe it up for a few minutes. When I did, there was no color left behind.

I had occasion to test its repair-ability when I accidentally shoved my router plane and it carved a line out of the finish. Just doing a spot repair—no sanding, just wiping on some fresh oil—did the job. I can’t even find where the repair was done.

Is OSMO the right choice for you? Only you can decide that.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner


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