SawStop is the only blade brake saw until the patents run out. It is a very fine saw, but on your floor, about $4K. There are other very fine saws for a lot less money. For me, a true riving knife is by far the most important safety feature. Then, push blocks, sticks, sleds, and jigs. Just never get within 6 inches of the blade. Actually dust collection is up there as dust can kill you, just slower.
For all those who just say "be careful" well I can guarantee you every accident out there was someone who thought they were being careful. Kind of like motorcycle riders. There are those who have laid their bike down, and those who will lay their bike down. Or the parody Danny Ongias* said there were two kinds of Porsche drivers, who have hit a telephone backwards and those who will hit a telephone backwards"
In the 3 HP cabinet class, Powermatic/Baleigh is sweet. Several Grizzly, a Jet, Laguna, and the brand I have come to respect, Harvey. I notice Grizzly is selling South Bend that looks like a small upgrade to theirs. They are ALL made in the same 3 or 4 factories. The only saw with universal bad quality reviews is Delta. Bummer as they used to be the best and some of the new Unisaw features are really nice. I would not go for a "hybrid" as it is just a light contractor saw on a box for more money.
Each has it's good and bad features. Some have a very short distance from the blade to the front edge. Laguna for one, and the South Bend is pretty short. To me, that would limit my sled and crosscuts. I just got feedback from Laguna (F3 is a nice bit of kit) and they said they had never thought about that. Well, they are band saw pros.
I thought my Ridgid contractor saw was a life-time tool, but after about 10 years, gee I want a 3 HP cabinet. C300 Harvey is on my wish list. Still, I may pay double the price for the SawStop PCS. I am careful. I use sleds and blocks, but I do like my fingers very much. If the PCS was a piece of junk with a brake, then I could ignore it, but no, it is actually a very good saw. As good as a PM2000? Maybe not quite.
If I was a contractor and needed a job site saw, no way I would risk not having a SS as who knows what helper could get hurt. If I had a cabinet shop, again, no question ( except for the big sliding table and autofeed industrial machines) Why underwriters tolerate any not a SS, I do not know. I sure would not write a policy like that. For the home use, it is your decision. As the old saying goes, you can lead a horse to water, but not make him drink.
As I have mentioned every time someone goes looking for a saw and does not search the forum, download the parts diagram for all the saws you are interested in. You can see which ones share which trunnions. The trunnion is the saw. The rest is just holding it up. Bigger and heavier the better.
Do understand, the SS will not prevent any injury, just more likely to get a cut and maybe a stitch rather than losing your finger or slicing your forearm reaching. It is great, but not perfect so it is no excuse to be careless. Besides, a trigger means $100 for a blade and $70 for a cartridge. Much cheaper than an emergency visit.
- For the kids out there, Danny was a motorcycle racer who moved to Indy cars and sports cars. The joke was that he wrote the shortest book about racing ever. " Walls I have missed" He was very talented, but did not transition from youthful exuberance to old and crafty on the track as he got a little older.