Reply by MrWolfe

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Posted on Unfinished Moxon vise questions

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429 posts in 664 days

#1 posted 09-18-2019 04:18 PM

Nice build.
I don’t use leather or cork on my moxons but I can see how it would help.
I agree with Kenny and Andre about chisels and rasps to cut the bevel but I do it a little differently. I scribe the bevel along the top and the face of the chop and use a pull saw to cut almost down to the lines, a series of cuts spaced about 1/8 apart, THEN I use my chisel to chop out the waste pare down to the lines, or a rasp to shape it if there is a strange grain that my chisel won’t cut.

Everyone’s suggestion is a good one. So it really comes down to your tools and preference.

I used a combination of Beeswax, BLO and terpentine to finish my last couple of benches and I absolutely love it.
Roughly about four ounces of shaved beeswax in a container with just enough terpentine to cover. The terp will melt the beeswax after a day or two. Then I mixed in the B.L.O. and it sets up to the consistancy of Johnson’s Paste Wax.
It is great and I am using it on all my chisel handles and any handtools as well as the benches.

I would say something like 4 oz beeswax 2 oz Terpe 2 oz B.L.O.

If its too thin you can add more Beeswax… I did this the first time by putting shaved beeswax in a microwave proof container and melting it the slowly added it to the mixture.

If its too thick you can add more B.L.O. or if its too solid a little bit of terpentine.

You had mentioned handles in your other post. Here is what I made out of oak and dowels. My prototype out of pine did not last more than a couple of days before it failed. The oak one I used thin cyanacrylic to strengthen it.


I like it because it works on two seperate moxons. I usually just hand tighten the star nuts on them but with this I can really snug down on them if I need to… carefully. I don’t torque on it really tight but it is tighter than I can do with my hand.

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