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Reply by Nubsnstubs

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Posted on Sheer Cut Carbide Turning Tools -- Harrison vs. Hunter vs. Other?

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Nubsnstubs

1569 posts in 2123 days


#1 posted 05-02-2019 11:10 PM

Nathan, as long as the diameter of the recess is over the size of the cutter, who cares if there is a taper to match the carbide.
A little history. I broke my neck back in 2009-2010. After it healed, when hollowing any item in normal forward rotation, my neck always hurt afterwards because of the way I had to do it. After getting a reversible lathe, all my hollowing is in reverse.
If you know anything about the older Sorby Swan neck tools, the bar is half round until it goes into the handle.. The steel cutter was a pain to sharpen, so I started using carbide. Then I got my reversible lathe. When I want to turn reverse using that tool, I remove the carbide cutter from the normal position, flip it over, and now can cut in reverse. The base of the carbide is sitting on the flat of the bar and the cutting edge is up whatever the carbide thickness is from the flat. Just adjust the tool rest height.

As far as steel goes for make at tool, I’ve been using 1018 CR or 4140 Chrome Molly. Diameter or size should be smaller that the cutting surface. If you use a 1/2” diameter or square, the area that you set the cutter should be smaller than the cutter in order to be able to cut. Below is set up for forward turning. The bar is 1/2” and the carbide is 5/8 OD. The second picture is a side view.
Forward

Forward

Next is set up for reverse turning. Also notice the grinding I did on the end of the tool. I had to do that to clear the edge of the inside surface for some pretty small hollowforms I was turning.
Reverse

Reverse

Reverse

Whatever tool shaft you choose to make, if it is a swan neck, you can either counterbore one face, and use the pilot hole to complete the other side. Tap to fit the screw you use, and now you can forward or reverse turn just by swapping the position of the cutter rather than having a right hand tool or left hand tool. This last picture below shows what I did. The larger tool has a 5/8” bar. I had to grind the end to get clearance for the cutter. The smaller one at the bottom of the picture hasn’t been tapped yet. When I have a desperate need for it, all I have to do is tap it and put a cutter on it. I made it for my Scruples, but found a temporary way around not needing it. One day. Hope this helps.

....... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com


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