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Reply by CaptainKlutz

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Posted on Question about grizzly go555lanv bandsaw

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CaptainKlutz

1487 posts in 1910 days


#1 posted 05-01-2019 01:03 AM

Don’t own g0555 with riser block.
Have owned 3 similar 14” band saws, two with riser?
[I move a lot, and sell tools not easy to move …..]

IMHO – the riser block is an evil upgrade to any 14” band saw.
I say riser block is evil for one reason:
The extra height puts greater demand on all the parts to be machined, assembled, and adjusted more accurately than on a saw without riser. Both tools I owned with riser block were total PIA to get upper blade guide set properly.

Suggest you begin by squaring the table to blade with all guides loose and backed off (or removed). Then check if the vertical riser bar is square to table and parallel to blade.
If it is not; this has to be fixed before you have any hope of setting the blade guides. If need to adjust vertical guide post (likely IME), probably have to tear saw down in steps (after setting table square to blade path for reference point).

1) Check castings that support the vertical bar: are they free of defects, and keep bar position square in any position? [plumb bob helps you see if things move as your make adjustments)
No, fix it, or replace parts.

2) Check the riser block installation: Did it add any tilt or change angle of head casting/guide bar when installed?
Yes, fix it, or remove riser.

Had issues with used Delta 14” I bought with riser already installed. Had to remove and reinstall the rise kit, needing to use flat file to adjust the mating surfaces between the cast iron and riser block to stop head shifting out of square as bolts tightened. Guessing the reason I got the saw so cheap, was the previous owner was tired of fidgeting around with the blade guide changes due head misalignment.

Totally regret trying to give a Ridgid 14” band saw the riser block upgrade.
Saw worked ok before riser block upgrade, after had issues with blade guide positioning. Replaced lower blade guide holder due hole was not bored exactly 90 degrees, and that helped some. Like the Delta owned years earlier, found the cast iron machining on the joints where riser block attaches were not flat. It was so bad, could see the head tilt in two directions with/without riser (using a plumb bob). While I eventually got the riser block working on Ridgid, had to remove it due vibration issues. With riser block and properly tensioned 1/2” blade the saw had too much vibration to keep wood flat on table. Worked well with less tension, but not when using the blades that would use the riser block added capabilities.

Even if you saw doesn’t have same issues, hope this gives some clues on what to look for.

Best Luck.

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!


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