I've been reading a lot of purchasing advice here and so when I saw this saw posted, it almost seems too good to be true. I'm looking at a Delta Unisaw-type machine for $325. This might not officially a unisaw, but similar idea, I think? It would be about a 3hr drive to go and pick up this saw, but my gut tells me it might just well be worth it.
Ha, thanks for the heads up on rule #5. I did already talk to him and arranged to pick it up this weekend. Being a 3 hr drive, I can't take off right away. The seller is pretty remote and didn't seem like the kind of guy to go sell it to someone else. Even still, I'm pretty excited to get it back and might see if I can fit the trip in earlier!
The machine in question is officially a Unisaw. The Unifence and overarm guard alone is worth the asking price… they are throwing the machine in for free. Only thing that seems to be missing is one lock knob and possibly the miter gauge. If it were anywhere within a days drive of me, it would already be in my garage
I don't think he would sell to someone else??? heard that here before,,go to walmart and send him a money gram deposit to hold it for you,,, someone else shows up with cash and it's gone.
I spent $600 for a similar Delta Unisaw of 70's vintage….yours look like a 1950's vintage. I believe 1940's and eariler would have the "bullet" motor on it. And they don't build them that good anymore. However, what is the HP of the saw's motor…would assume 3HP to 5HP because of the 220v…which should be pretty good enough. As others have said, the uniguard is worth something like $300 by itself. The wide table is a good thing too. The Unisaw as far as I can tell, was the king of the consumer/small shop saws from the 40's to 2000..and I'm very happy with my 1970's vintage one. For the price it sounds like a steal. When you pick it up, just make sure of what your getting….see it run (that's what I did when I picked mine up). Look at and identify the motor, might be a Delta, might be a Baldor, might be Chinese…could it be a "Bullet"? Do the raise/lower the blade, do the full tilt…look at the insides with a flash light. See anything major wrong that you can fix, take some money off. Look at the belts…disconect power and turn the arbor by hand…should not hear anything. Put a piece of wood on the arbor and turn it…should not hear scratching or thumping noise. If the arbor is bad, that we'll be about $100 to $150. Do the nickel test on the saw. Good luck!
I offered to send him a deposit but he told me that he wouldn't sell the two items until I came to see them, which I'm doing on Monday. He wanted to hook them up to 220v in his new shop and test them out today as well.
@BigAl98 Thanks for the tips on taking a look at the saw when I see it. I've read about the Bullet, which is a pretty incredible motor.
I'm going to be taking a trailer down to transport it back. Any advice on best ways to secure it over 200 miles in a trailer? I could take it in pieces, strap it down, cover with a tarp. What would be the most fragile part to watch out for?
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